Happy New Year!

Here's wishing you all a very

Happy New Year

I don't know what happened with the sunset picture but as most of you know the internet here is abysmal! Most jobs and checking have been done and we are just waiting for our crew (Otto) to finish his celebrations before we seriously look for a weather window to depart. Fingers crossed all will go well.  I may write again before we leave but if not it will probably be February before I make an entry.

Cactus Garden and other sights.

Day 2 of Sightseeing and this was a fine sunny day so blue skies in all the images!

Today we visited the National Park of Timanfaya. We drove for a fair while inside the park through all the volcanic debris to an entrance where after paying the fee we were directed to a parking area. Since it was higher up I needed a woolly pulley. We were loaded onto a coach and given a guided tour of the exhibition area together with the relevant notes on eruptions etc.

Afterwards there were demonstrations of a burning bush, (is this what Moses did??) Then shown a hole in the wall which could be used as an oven—for ‘high’ settings, A grill which was used by the restaurant, and finally a geyser. In all well worth the visit. We then visited the National Park interpretive Center and learnt more about Volcanism in the Canaries

After lunch we continued via Teguise village to the Cactus Gardens. Another of Cesars Tourist attractions. His attention to detail with art in the loos and even cactus door handles to the coffee shop. Cacti images are on the windows live site.

I nearly forgot that we made a detour to see the Salt flats and Lago de los Clicos at El Golfo

On the way home we stopped by at the Campesino Monument and Maxmat for a new washing line and other boat bits.

  Then as we passed an Argentinean Restuarant decided to eat out. Wow fillet steak just like Buenos Aires!How good is that ? And now a nice sunset to end...

Lanzarote

Wednesday 1st December and we are still in T shirts! A fair wind so we had full sail & yankee to make 7 knots and a fast ride to Marina Rubicon.

The first job was to sort out us coming out to have the antifouling, anodes and various other jobs done prior to crossing the pond. There are holidays next week so it looks like the week after. The weather didn’t hold so more boat jobs and the dentist for Malcolm. We finally had a couple of days sightseeing. Images are on Picasa and ‘Windows Live’ people can see flora in the public folder there. I have also been playing with the blog facility on Friends Reunited which you may like to have a look at—if you do be sure to leave a comment then I’ll know if anyone uses it.

Lanzarote is not an endearing Island. It does have vegetation but most is low growing Lichens and shrubs. There is no variation in buildings predominantly which low level cubes. The exception was Cesar Manrique’s house which was just my cup of tea. Cesar was an artist in the fullest sense of the word, his mark is all over the Island, either as Paintings, Sculpts, pottery or tourist attractions. His house was built on his return from America and shows empathy with the volcanic surroundings. It is made on two levels more traditional rooms at ground level and his living area below ground level in rooms of converted bedrock (literally the gas bubbles formed during the last volcanic eruption). It was built during the mid sixties when tourism was just taking off on the Island. He promoted a model for Territorial Intervention based on sustainability based on the Islands natural heritage. In fact the success of this model led to Lanzarote becoming a World Biosphere Reserve in 1993 so I guess this is a larger form on WHS? He then became a planner and left his mark on many a roundabout and seafront. Once you have seen his house it is quite easy to spot his other works.

Next stop was the viewpoint Mirador del Rio. This was another of Cesars’ works to encourage tourism and has outstanding views over the channel to Graciosa. We continued round the coast road to Cueva de Los Verdes but the next tour was waiting for 20 more people to make up the 50 needed to run so knowing we were running late we gave it a miss and went straight onto Jameos del Aqua. This is another of Cesars works but this time an auditorium for concerts with extras for tourists. The steps down to the amphitheatre have been planted with cave loving ferns. There is also a lake with a protected species of freshwater crab, then up the stairs on the way out a swimming pool and interpretive center for the Island including much information on volcanoes and daily life. By the time we had read all the information there was barely sufficient time to do the shopping before home to dinner.

And yes I managed to put 2 images in this time!

Madeira

Funchal Market, Madeira.
 After driving into Funchal and then all the traffic jams to park we eventually found our way to the Market. Which was by far the most spectacular of all that we have shopped at during our time abroad.  The shop above was on the second floor and you may have guessed sold ‘Madeiran’ wine!  Of interest to the home producers were the peculiar fruits – hence the obscure pictures in Picasa.  We then walked along the main road to find the TIC office, get a good map and ideas of what else to see. There had been a fire top the highest peak so that was out! We came away with enough ideas to keep us busy. On the way back we passed the ‘Beatles’ yacht which is now a floating restaurant, various sculpts and (to make us feel at home) hot chestnut sellers.
  We began by driving along the coast stopping at various awesome viewpoints along the way.  Next a tortuous trip to the Nuns' Valley and back via Monte where we just missed the Botanic Gardens by an hour -but did see the local tourist sport of Sledge riding down the mountain road.  A brief stop at the supermarket yawn and by the time we got back we were weary travellers.
  The following day we had good directions from the Joanna in the marina office which were only thwarted by road works in the first 5 miles, hey ho, - we persevered and headed across the island over the mountains (where we had our usual picnic lunch) and then headed Eastwards to pick up the road back to Funchal and home.  Yes we had more spectacular views but as the day progressed the clouds came down and at the highest points managed to obscure the terrific views which we knew were lurking.
The Rest of the time in Madeira was spent aboard preparing for the short passage to the Canaries. Since the supermarket was a taxi ride away we decided that for a short trip we could manage with what we had on board.  The weather forecast was for very light winds at first (so possibly motoring) then some good stuff  but against us then bad blows against us.  I’m told that the prevailing winds from Madeira to the Canaries are always in our favour (sic).
The first day was wonderful, I cooked a delicious chicken casserole with potatoes and beans in the pressure cooker, and there was enough leftover for lunch the next day. The second day was bumpy and uncomfortable, the third dreadful. Nasty winds of the range 25-30 knots but gusting 40. The wind generator screaming it’s head off as usual due to not having been tied down.  Very little sail up at all but no need to motor! I was unable to be any help at all (what’s new) the auto –pilot working and in full control did all that was asked of it.  Malcolm was on watch the whole time making sail adjustments and tweaking this and that.  He did ask me to do a stint at watch keeping and by that time I was able to keep an eye on things while he had a brief rest.  All I managed was to fill in the log on the hour and grin and bear it.
  So as we arrived at Graciosa (remember Graciosa in the Azores ???) the wind had moderated and ‘Piano’ prepared for berthing.  Mooring lines and fenders at the ready we motored in very carefully-but there was no space for us so out into the channel again and on for another 3 hours to arrive at Puerto Naos Harbour on Lanzerote.  There were many other yachts with the same idea but we did manage to find a spot to drop the anchor.  I made a steak pie and fresh bread to lift our spirits.
  Next day and Jobs R. US. While Malcolm sorted out the loo (again) I had a blitz on the bathroom shower.  I must say that Ghislaine would be proud of me– it looks as good as new!  I made spaghetti Bolognese with a crisp green salad and the last of the Parmesan from Italy (thanks Maria) Pineapple tart with other fruits from the market on Madeira and Marscapone cream. The batteries were low by this time so the engine was started to recharge them, except nothing happened when I turned the key ( we both said “what now?”) count to ten and had another try– this time it started perfectly!!!! Phew With hot water we could now use the ‘new shower’ !
  Day two at anchor.  Today we sorted out the generator (again) First checked the seawater inlet and the tube was dry ! Next check the impeller and that water is now getting to the engine OK fire her up and bingo one generator fixed…… but a strong smell of diesel and yes there is a tiny squirt coming from a flexible tube so that will need replacing I haven’t seen any spare aboard so will look now.

Porto Santo, Madeiran Archipelago. 18th November 2010

We arrived at the Marina early afternoon ready for a nice cup of tea.  After mooring we checked in with the customs and marina office then settled into clearing away after the trip.  Sonia at the office had recommended a local restaurant who would also provide transport to & from our evening meal.  Such hospitality was accepted and we set a time of 7.30.  The chap who drove was also the proprietor and chef and he did us proud. Tired bunnies we then crashed out for the night.
  Early on Thursday we walked the 3 km into town and had a coffee on the way. Next stop the tourist office from where we got the local map and sights to see. We decided to do some shopping at Pingo Doce  and then get a taxi for a tour of the Island.  The groceries loaded we set off for a very pleasant couple of hours with a semi happy older taxi driver (Eric) who pointed out all the main highlights.
   Porto Santo is the smallest of the inhabited islands of the Madeiran Archipelago just under 500 miles from Rabat, Morocco.  It was first discovered  in 1418 by Portuguese fishermen.  The Island boasts 9 km of fine golden sandy beaches and crystalline waters.  The calciferous seawater is a pull for health freaks and a selling point for health holidays.  As our driver told us most of the new housing in evidence is in fact holiday homes for  people from Madeira who see the benefit of a private Island as a weekend getaway in the height of the tourist season.  Madeira it seems has no sandy beaches of its own.
   Our first sight was the Discovery Monument better known as the Soap Log.  An impressive four square  edifice with each of its sides showing scenes alluding to the discoveries made during the life of Prince Henry.
    The taxi tour began with a climb over the mountainous ridge heading roughly north towards Pico Castelo  We stopped frequently to admire the barren landscape and tremendous vistas

 We were constantly spotting birds of prey soaring above us.  There are only two farmers left on the island so it seems that the birds have a free ‘run’ of rabbits and other small mammals. Next a yellow outcrop of clay smeared the mountainside, but, sadly there are no potters nor artisans to use it.
   Winding our way to the west from Camacha, we journeyed to Pico de Castilo , where, a small fort  was built during the 16th Century.  Mainly to ward off French attacks and Algerian pirates.  Today the belvedere forms an outstanding view of  Porto Santo.  It has a well landscaped picnic area too. Onwards and down to the  Fonte da Areia - natural freshwater springs .  Once a spouting flow of water came through, however, nowadays it is but a small trickle.  Of course it had stories of both medicinal and holy nature attached.  More eye-catching were the sand blown cliffs through which it percolated.
We continued past the modern airport back towards the immense beach and up again to Pico das Flores another view  of the island and out to westwards a glimpse of Desertas and Madeira Islands.
We retraced our track back to the main road and continued to the most southerly point overlooking Ilhéu de Baixo ou da Cal , an even more remote island with its only inhabitants –the birds.  This was almost the end of our tour, save for the return though Cidade Vila Baleira with Eric (our driver) pointing out all the holiday homes, including that of the President who shares the road to the Marina with fuel storage tanks for the airport and a modern power station, he of course has prime real estate facing the beach and sea!
   By now we were very hungry so, after paying and thanking Eric we ate our picnic lunch in comfort ‘al fresco’ aboard Piano …...with a cool beer!
 

Ourika Valley Day 3

First a walk to the meeting place where the Grand Taxi could navigate the tiny alleys-then we were off through thick rush hour traffic and onto the open road to the Ourika Valley. Just 60 km or so but the second 30 km were along country lanes and so the speed was much less since the taxi driver was trying to keep it in good condition.  We stopped a couple of times to take pictures but each time we were accosted by hawkers selling jewellery etc which would have meant bartering (and we are not into that ).Included in the itinerary was a stop at a working mill. It was run by diverting water in a very simple fashion and produced sufficient for the local population who brought there own grain and had it ground to whichever grade they wanted (from powder to couscous) . The miller spoke good English and showed us the living accommodation adjoining the mill. Here his wife and baby daughter were sitting by the fire .  We also saw the well stocked larder  bedrooms and a small garden looking out onto the land he farms with all his crops. I guess he was self sufficient he certainly looked a happy chappy.
  By complete contrast we next stopped at Co-operative Feminine Tiguemine Argan. They ran a small industry from the harvest of Arcan trees.  These are ancient trees with nuts rather similar to Acorns. The tree is specially adapted to dry desert soils found in the North of Morocco.  When the harvest comes in the ladies crack the outer shell with a stone (by hand) the seed gets broken to almond like flakes husks are used as animal feed. The flakes are then ground to a paste again by hand and the liquor drained off. It is then mixed with water when the oil separates and can be poured off and the remaining mash used for making soap.  In short nothing is wasted!  The various parts are then the raw materials for production of an impressive line of goods.  We tasted Arcan oil (30E /300 ml) Arcan mixed with honey (jam) and Arcan with oranges (marmalade). The oil has a delicate flavour when compared to Olive oil and no wonder it is so expensive when it takes 60 Kg of nuts to make 1L of oil BY HAND!  Other products are soap hand cream shampoo etc etc the list is extensive.  Well out of our price range but we did buy a token bottle of oil for Salad dressings.
Finally we arrived at our destination the Setti Fatma.  Here the going was especially slow due to all the tourists arriving in Taxis and mini vans. The area was flooded in 1995 and is presently being rebuilt so you can imagine the chaos.  No matter we were introduced to our guide Mascan who also spoke fair English.  He then led us up a trail into the mountain to reach a waterfall.  Here the towns co-operative have the monopoly on all goods.  Wherever there is space there is a ‘shop’. One owner told us that all the items are made in the town and are therefore much cheaper than in Marrakech (Ha?).  We continued quite a strenuous climb upward.  Mascan had said my sandals were suitable but I would rather have been wearing my walking boots! He always gave me a helping hand on the more tricky parts which was sweet of him.  Once at the waterfall we had a rest and our picture taken since that was what everybody else was doing and we didn’t want to disappoint our guide. We began our descent and stopped for goodies .It was a feelgood factor to purchase from this gentle co-operative where ,yes there was sales pressure but not the same kind as in the Marrakech souks.  We had certainly paid over the odds because once we had paid the shop owner offered me a free bracelet ! After the climb down our guide asked us if we wanted to see the rest of the village we said maybe after lunch.
  Lunch was down by the waterside and very tasty.   Served in a Tajine  I had tiny meatballs in a spicy rich tomato sauce.  Malcolm had a Tajine of Lemon chicken (he left the olives).   By the time we were replete we realized that after the drive back to town we would only just make the train home.  We gave the village a miss.
 
The train was waiting at the station and left on time.  Unfortunately we had a few unlisted stops but generally made up the missed time. Arrived back aboard ‘Piano’ who had been well behaved while we were away and was pleased to see us again.

As I write we have been waiting for a slot to make passage for Madeira, Malcolm is not happy about the big swell which is forecast as we arrive so we look to be here for some time yet...

Marrakech Day 2

After an early Moroccan breakfast (French continental) we walked to the Majorelle Gardens  named after the creator James Majorelle. These are 12 acres of superb
botanical gardens. They were subsequently owned by Y St Laurent so didn’t have the same volume of visitors as now. This I think is why it is all in such spectacular condition.  There are already signs of ‘wear’ which are evident in other Tourist hotspots around.  Anyway , the light was not conducive to my poor photography techniques so I hope you get the flavour.
  We then took a petit taxi to the Menara Gardens this is more a public open space. To be enjoyed by Moroccans at the weekend for picnics etc. A wide Boulevard led to the entrance, where there were a few token Camels available for rides. We did have to pay entrance to see the poolside minzah.  The gardens are mostly laid to olive trees and a few roses.
Taxi to Bahia (Brilliant) Palace. Most outstanding were the cedar wood painted ceilings, zellij fireplaces, stucco friezes and stained glass windows.  There were plenty of rooms not all restored and others for use on Royal visits not open to the public. It reminded me of the Royal Palace in Seville probably due to the historical connection.
 Just round the corner (figuratively speaking) was the smaller Dar Si Said a smaller version of the Bahia Palace.  This has the Moroccan Museum of Arts on the second floor so we spent some time perusing the artefacts.  Once again the woodwork was ‘IMPRESSIVE’ my pictures don’t do it justice.  No photography allowed here - a shame since it has the oldest relic in Morocco –a large rectangular basin dating from 1005. Amazing that it has survived all the wars and sackings over the years !  It ought to have better publicity and position.
  Quite tired out we had tea above the Square and thought about the missed lunch. Decided to eat early at Jemaa square.
Managed to catch Hassan when we got back and arranged to do the Ourika Valley tomorrow.

Marrakech 30th October. Day 1

While we have been in Rabat we have met numerous people who have given mixed views of Marrakech. So after returning from the UK for Mums 80th birthday party we decided to make a trip to see for ourselves.
An early start for the 07.40 train (which was 20 minutes late!) and it was raining quite hard.  We arrived to blue skies and dry warmth.  The guide book put petit taxis between 10 & 15 dh depending on distance. We never paid less than 20 dh!  That said we did manage to find the Riad where we were staying. I’m always pleasantly surprised when I find a jewel amid general mayhem. We checked into a warm welcome from the manager Hassan (who also provided us with mint tea a street map and ideas for sights to see) and set off for a wander.  The map was helpful for streets (sic) but fell short for the hundreds of Dars– alleyways. The first task was to exit the Mouassine area to the first main road. This was quite a feat in that even the smallest alley took motor cycles, larger ones had hundreds of shops (a souk area) which meant wares on show outside which slowed the traffic down. Here amidst the pedestrians were donkeys pulling cement carts, hand carts over laden, bicycles, cars, taxis, and the frequent beggar sitting in any space available.  We were so concerned about not getting lost we failed miserably to take snaps of these areas. Jemaa el Fna square above looks quite empty by comparison.
  We did manage to find La Koutoubia 70m high.  It is interesting that it is the oldest of the three Almohad towers built. The others being the Giralda in Seville, and the Hassan Tower here in Rabat. All have been visited on our travels.
  Next stop via another souk and the crowded bus station was the Saadian Tombs.  This was the burial site for the dynasty of the same name, who, ruled Morocco from 1554-1669.  They lay unforgotten until the French did an aerial survey in 1917 and were then restored for viewing. The site is quite small and we had to queue to see the interior tombs .
The El Badi (Incomparable)  Palace It is mostly ruins now but in its heyday must have been astounding.  The shear size parallels places like Dover castle but was far more than defensive.  Rooms for receiving foreign diplomats with sunken pools, summer pavilions and a large central pool with fountain.  Around the ramparts storks now nest.  We didn’t have time to do it justice having been misled by the guide book which said it was open ’til 17.45 when it actually closed at 17.00!

We wandered back to the Riad through Jemaa el Fna Square to see snake charmers and monkey handlers foot painters and food stalls.
Dinner that night was a typical Moroccan meal at the Riad and quit delicious!
Images are in Picasa.

Casablanca 8th October

Decided on a day out of town and so took the train to Casablanca with a picnic lunch.  Rather a lot of bustle when we arrived but we managed to find our way to the old town (Medina) and walked through the souk towards the Hassan II Mosque.  Building began in 1980 and it was inaugurated in 1993.  It is absolutely colossal second only to Mecca!  St Peter’s in Rome could easily fit inside it. With it being Friday we weren’t able to take a tour inside and better descriptions are found elsewhere so just help your selves to our snaps.  We meandered back through the souk and along Art Deco Streets past the Law Courts and French Consul in the modern part of town to the Park de la Ligue Arabe where we “snaffed” lunch.
  During the afternoon we took a petit Taxi to the  Habous Quarter which is a New Town area being built in the 1930’s.  This was by far the most European style seen so far with neat but haphazard streets and exceedingly clean souk.   We stopped for afternoon tea overlooking the village green. Ever the opportunists Malcolm was asked at least 3 times if he wanted his shoes cleaned by itinerant workers.  He did succumb so everyone was happy.
Apart from a non eventful train ride home that completes the Casablanca day out. If we had another day or two I’m sure we could have filled it.
  Images are in Picasa.- maybe not today as this looks as though it's corrupted and the wifi is poor

More of Rabat...

As I said earlier Sale is on the other bank of the river and this is where the Marina is.  The present King keeps his boats here and there is a band of cleaners which always have something to do looking after them.  Next door to the Marina is a huge building site which will eventually be luxury apartments  and the facilities to go with them.
The present town of Sale is the dormitory area for Rabat. Together with its own shopping areas and Souk.  In my opinion a more pleasant place to shop with as much variety as Rabat.
     Thursday we tried to find the Palace Gardens.  An easy map reading exercise became a nightmare.  Imagine the scene...a very warm morning building to the usual  even hotter day, and uphill cycle into town and then meandering through the main roads to the site we are visiting.

   When we arrive at the first gate the security man tells us we need to go to the official entry gate, off we go , only to be told that this is the wrong one and we should be at ...we set off again (third gate lucky) and here the police guard asks for our passports we tell him they are on the boat in the marina and that we only have credit cards and our EU health card as identity (which he accepts!)  He tells us to continue. Just 300 metres down the road and a car stops to tell us they want us to move our locked bikes.  Back we go to complete this task  and the same security guard now asks us to go to the office to complete formalities. The civil servant here doesn’t really want to know (he is holding a bunch of passports so we don’t hold any interest  for him) he also gives us directions and off we go for the second time The whole area is enormous with wide roads and hardly any traffic.  Of course we want to get close to the palace and have a quick look.  Unlike other visitors we do not have a palace guide to explain the fact to us—I guess we didn’t need one for viewing the gardens ? So we are watched by : the security guards, palace guards and palace police (not to mention various sundry security men just milling around). No one approaches us so I’d say this is a good result!
 We take a couple of snaps and continue our walk. .  The Palace Gardens are immaculate. Not a blade out of place and many gardeners around doing their job. There are plenty of seats if only the public/visitors knew that it is a public Garden . Images are in Picasa.

Tour Hassan Rabat, Morocco.

Next visit we took a Petite Taxi (They are Blue  smaller than the ‘Grand white Mercedes and MUCH cheaper!) Anyway the destination was the Hassan Tower. With Grand Mosque and Mausoleum.  This had a mounted guard at either entrance and other foot guards at strategic doorways.  On the way home we found the Marjane supermarket which seems to be the only place to buy beers!
Writing all this up has reminded me that I can STILL only put one image per entry so please look on Picasa for the rest, however,since some avid viewers have had 5 invitations so far I shan't go there again for a while!

Rabat, Morocco.

What weather! Really blue skies and sun all day . This is more like it! Low 30’s during the day and low 20’s at night,  Just my cup of tea.  We had a day to recover our body clocks and chill out.  Then we set about exploring Rabat. Our first trip was though the souk (market) . A warren of tiny lanes for pedestrians which were packed with tiny shops . Some had a cooker and were preparing and serving food, Others had live chickens and were selling both chickens and eggs. Fish , herbs spices fruit veg , absolutely , everything.
Next we  tried looking for a tourist office - Ha! they didn’t have one but we were sent to the National Office of Tourism a (pretty major taxi ride) where the lady behind the desk told us that  the tourist office had been moved and kindly wrote the address down for us,  Another  taxi drive and we found that although it was called a tourist office it was just a desk.  At this point all we wanted was a map and the main tourist attractions.  She went to her cupboard and ooops no town  maps and no information-all she could offer was a map of Morocco-which we  took with a big smile. Hey ho back to the boat and after sorting the wi-fi  we printed our own  with the biggest attractions.
I was not happy about finding mixed information on the Lonely planets website.  At least 3 of the 20 attractions were to be found in Rabat (Malta!)

Next day we cycled to The Kasbah de Oudaias where we were lucky to be caught by an English speaking guide.  His name was Hassan and it was his day off school. He informed us that the whitewash and blue colours were symbolic of the Koran.  He took us round and pointed out the door knockers which had the occupation of the inhabitant depicted or a lucky hand.   It was tranquil and cool wandering around the oldest part of Rabat .  We had our picnic in the Andalusian Gardens.

Rabat the Passage

We left the anchorage in Portimao harbour for Rabat around lunchtime, after coffee with the Follies. Winds no greater than 10-15 knots were forecast for the first day and, with quite light breezes in the harbour, we sailed out with just 1 reef and full headsails. There was soon 15-20 knots from just aft of the beam and we were flying along, sometimes reaching 8.5 knots. We kept waiting for the wind to drop back again, thinking it was a coastal effect but it didn’t—if anything it was still increasing.  Finally, after more than 3 hours of  averaging 7-8 knots, we decided to put in the other 2 reefs and furl the yankee. This was a timely decision, as the wind was soon 20-25 knots and we were still doing 7 knots. We wanted to arrive off Rabat near high tide in the early afternoon of the third day but, at this rate of progress, we were likely to be far too early. We were rolling quite a bit in the big seas and neither of us felt like eating a proper dinner that evening, even though it had been pre-prepared. By the early hours, conditions had moderated quite a bit and I (Malcolm) finally ate the meal at  0400!! By mid-morning the winds had become light and rather variable and that remained so for much of the day. Occasionally we had to motor sail, when progress became too slow but generally it was a pleasant  relaxing day in the sunshine. It remained quiet throughout the second night  but the next morning we found we had been boarded during the darkness—by a flying fish, which was now baking on deck! We should have fried it for breakfast but somehow didn’t get around to it. The winds became ever lighter as we approached the coast - again we adjusted our arrival time by intermittent use of the engine when the going became too slow.
  Finally, at around 3 p.m .we arrived off the entrance to the Bou Regreg river and called up the marina to ask for a pilot to guide us in.  As luck would  have it they were just guiding another English yacht out, so were with us in a matter of minutes. The harbour bar is often very treacherous but we had picked the perfect day and time for our entrance and there were no waves breaking on it at all. Once in the river, we were warmly welcomed by all the fishermen in their brightly coloured wooden boats that we passed. Our first attempt at  mooring to the reception pontoon was less than brilliant but after a second approach we were soon safely tied up, to be greeted by a large group of assorted officials. They were all incredibly friendly and after less than an hour all the formalities had been completed, mainly in French but with a little English. The dog that they were using to check for drugs was a huge Alsatian called Wolf but  our companionway steps were just too steep for him, so they contented themselves with a quick tour around the deck. After all this was completed we moved into the perfectly sheltered marina and were soon tied up between 2 unoccupied German yachts. Our other neighbours were an Australian couple and another couple from the West Coast of the US, both of whom had been cruising for quite a few years.  While our pontoon was quite full, the next one had just 6 yachts on it—5 of them belonging to the King. Because of that, security is very good, yet not at all oppressive and the marina, part of an waterside village development which is in its early stages, is the best kept  one we have ever been in.

Portimao 12th -26th ish Sept 2010

Time in Portimao was quite pleasant. Back to civilisation, almost like the UK, all foods available with our friendly market stall holders who remembered us from the spring. As it was the tail end of the season there were plenty of tourists in Praia de Rocha—without the noise late at night (and no Shearwaters to wake us up !)
A job list was finalised and the long toll began. The Staysail was checked and packed ready to take to Canvas Mike for minor re-enforcements. The offending guardrail was removed ready for the rigger. At this point Our dear friends Anton & Denise turned up to take us for lunch! Wow what a treat we combined a full blow (The Thai mint and coconut dressing was so good with the Prawns that I asked for it with my LAMB chops ( yes lamb after almost a year without !)out with a pleasant walk to view Denises favourite windmill and returned home happy and replete.
Our next visitor was Simon who had returned from Spain a day early and noticed we were around. It being Friday he suggested Pappa Jorges and then a classical concert in town. Jobs then overrun and dinner was needed before a late night concert so Pappa Jorges held over ‘til next week. The Concert was superb (as usual) and we were joined by some new friends for a nightcap afterwards.
Sometime here we realized that we could no longer ignore the fridge/freezer problem . We asked the American long term residents Bill & Marylyn who the could recommend and set about fixing an appointment. Meanwhile Malcolm had googled a sewing machine mechanic who lives in Lagosh to come and fiddle with it. Another Ex-Pat who really had a feel for his work. He was very impressed with the mechanical changes (motor) and bobbin winder which had been done in the past. Only a very minor adjustment was needed to the bobbin mechanism and it was behaving as it should. After making some new hatch covers to match the new Bimini I now realize why Jerry said that the Top-Gun material was so hard to work with.
It was good to catch up with the Follies over dinner (& I managed to use up some more meat before it went off) they have spent the summer doing their 10 year service and are almost ready to go back in the water.
Another walk around a Barragem (in blazing hot sun) with Anton & Denise followed by dinner in another mountain Hamlet on the way up to Monchique. Traditional Portugese 'Wild Boar'. To the chirping of a large Parrot - see Picasa.
While rechecking the joints on the loo system we also checked the bilge and found that the automatic pump had been left of (during generator repairs). Next we needed an obscure item from a locker and eek discovered a leak ! From the hot water pipe …(whatever next you ask…) so off went the water pump and I set about drying bits which had got wet. Meanwhile we searched the spreadsheet to see if we had items to fix the problem. YES good ‘ol Yan HAD thought of everything. We found a hose connector and new piping and a repair was soon made! Phew!
The job list got shorter and shorter and still no sign of a fridge mechanic so we called another chap who assessed the situation and scratched his head before adding some more gas and taking many readings (pressure and temperature) He returned a day later and flushed the system to replace said gas with some from his own supply. Yes this worked and the system is now ready for filling again.
Meanwhile Anton & Denise had been trying to phone us and couldn’t so had made a surprise visit for lunch and another walk. It was a cool day and far better for walking which this time took us to Alvor and a traditional Portuguese Restaurant. Followed by a long walk to the harbour entrance. On the way we are pretty sure that we spied the ’Flying fish’ at anchor but too far out to shout a greeting. Back along the beach and as the photo (© Anton) shows a washed up polythene bag (NOT)
So today being Friday and the main jobs finished it is time to start looking at the weather and conditions for Rabat. The Follies are being re-launched today and they think the wind is good for South. I write this before I really know but am anticipating leaving tomorrow so wanted to get the blog and pictures done for this stopover.
9 NB self -Must remember the OOO setting on the email...)

Passage to Rabat...? (Or NOT) 4th - 12th September

A Happy Snap to keep the avid readers content.
Now for the exitement...

The trip began in calm winds through which we motored. As soon as we had slipped we tried turning circles and reversing to get the boat speed log to work. It was then necessary to empty the forward locked of all the food supplies to take it out and clean it of growth. This is the second time it has been done (even though the electronic anti fouling should prevent it from happening. Since the sensor is below the waterline it means there is a time lag before the locker can be repacked into its’ dry home. I took the opportunity to rationalise the boxes and have made even more space to store food.
The winds kicked in and we began sailing most of the trip was a broad/beam reach. Minor sail adjustments were needed to cope with the vagairies of force 2 to force 5. The seas were BIG and we had a couple of brief showers of rain.
We almost had the MPG out again—but after checking the halyards etc and freeing them ready to use the wind had increased and we needed to start reefing. Still everything is ready IF we get a chance again on this trip.
The Aries Wind vane has been doing sterling work helming which saves electricity. The only hang up is that it goes haywire in winds less that force 3, which does mean that you need to be keeping an eye on it. This seems a small price to pay for a third crew member who works for free and doesn’t complain at all.
I must mention my first passage as a working crew member, yes now that I take Stugeron (25 mg) I no longer get motion sickness and can do sufficient to give Malcolm 5 hours of sleep. My watch is 9 p.m.’til 2 a.m. I had prepared hot meals for the first 3 days so there was a minimum to do below deck in the rolly conditions. After that we took the meal preparation in turns.
Highlights of the trip were Dolphins cavorting around the boat and a lone turtle making an ocean voyage.
About midway we decided that the waves would probably prevent entry across the sandbar at Rabat so changed course for Portimao. This has the bonus that we can get a few more jobs done before we move further away from civilization.
On approaching the separation zones off Cabo San Vicente for traffic to and from the Mediterranean, we began to see lots more shipping. We were going to cross roughly at right angles to the general direction of shipping, several miles to the north of the separation zones but our AIS was showing such dense traffic that we knew we were in for a tense time. The AIS was showing 3 potential collision risks at a range of more than 20 miles but I assumed that with that much notice, the ships would keep well clear of us. Eventually one of the ships became a serious collision risk, so I started calling him on the radio. Only on the 5th attempt did they reply and grudgingly agreed to change course to pass astern. In fact, they only altered course by 5 degrees and to my mind remained a collision risk. In the circumstances, we started the engine but even with our increased speed, the ship passed within 1000 feet, which was too close for comfort. Twenty minutes later it was a great relief to pass into relatively empty seas again.
The remainder of the trip was non-eventful if fast. We sailed into the harbour and anchored after the second attempt. The rest of the day was spent relaxing and catching up on sleep.

More of Sao Miguel

It being lunch time when we arrived we sat down and ate yesterdays’ leftovers and a beer. As soon as the Marina Office opened again I checked in at 4 different desks!
1 - Marina
2-Police
3-Immigration
4-Customs
This even though we are already on many computers within the Azores. I wonder why they are not linked? Maybe it’s to ensure that men keep their jobs? But begs the question of why on some islands one man has to do it all !
Back to the boat and we could now go berth in the new Marina and had been given free choice as to which berth we wanted on F pontoon. While doing a quick ’Reccy’ we bumped into Jack & Carolyn (Flying Fish) so ended up near them. Remainder of the day was de-salting the hull, deck & bright work. This done I also gave the cockpit a coat of polish and the windows a layer of UV protection.
We slept like the dead that night.
Monday started well. I asked in the Marina office for an English speaking dive mater and was given directions so I added this call to my main task which was sourcing some cable for the Autopilot. The Padi dive center is on the Marina site so easy to find and here I found Neliuho who was able to offer us an afternoon dive to refresh our skills and check our equipment. He also recommended exactly the right guy to get the NMEA cable from.
Next stop was the Singer sewing machine shop. Here the nice lady didn’t speak ANY English but could understand the problem. She indicated that I should bring it to her. This involved finding a trolley to transport it…. To cut the boring bit –when I got back later that day her boss was in and found that indeed it was impossible to load the new lower bobbin. He said his mechanic could make a slight adjustment when he returned from holiday! Watch this space.
The rest of the day went pear shaped. I seemed to take one step forward and 4 back. Last time we had internet I had deleted the doubles of photos in the folder for this blog. Now when I look I see that they have disappeared from the Blog ! With a less than perfect internet connection this took the rest of the day waiting for each page to load before I could select the image and reload it. Frustrating is not the right word here !!
Tuesday. I can’t remember just what I was up to when there was a scream from the cockpit and I rushed to find out why. Malcolm had gone into one of the rear-most locker to get some acetone and had failed to put the safety cord in place the lid had slammed down on his fingers! Blood everywhere. I grabbed a couple of kitchen towels and clamped them over then elevated the hand and tried to calm him down. Vernon from Nefartari rushed round to offer help but soon saw I was doing all that was possible. Next I extracted the first aid kit and sprayed the two gashes with Iodine/antiseptic and followed up with strips of steristrip to hold the gaping sides together.
I certainly felt that it was bad enough to be seen by a Dr. So we hopped into a taxi and went to A&E. After completing the registration formalities we were seen by a triage nurse and then sent to X Ray before a fairly long wait of 45 minutes to be sewn up by a professional. I watched the whole procedure but it wasn’t ’til it was all over that I felt queasy!
The rest of the week I have been acting as Malcolm's right hand (sic) .Sorting the loo out .We also took the local bus to do some tourist stuff just to stop him using the hand and not allowing it to heal. We did a pretty uninteresting walk from sea level up to Lagoa do Fogo. Mostly because they are building a new motorway across the footpath which means that most of the walk was on a newish concrete road and uphill. We had sundowners with Vernon and his crew David.
On Friday we took a bus to Ribeira Grande on the other side of the Island and had a look round. Malcolm had his dressing changed again and the neighbours ( Vernon, David, Jack & Carolyn) came round to supper. Once again Thai Green Curry went down well followed by Azorean Pineapple and coffee. FAR too much alcohol was consumed but all involved said what a great evening it had been.
Saturday I finished the rewiring of the auto helm. Which now works!

Flying Fish left for Santa Maria, and having arrived safely downloaded Skype so I’ve added them to the Skype contacts for future use. Nefatari received some long awaited Yanmar parts and have had an electrician aboard rewiring their looms, they set sail for Madeira as soon as the work was completed hoping for fair winds so that David can catch his flight home. We have Vernon's email address and his marina birth in Madeira which we can use in his absence. After final shopping then preparing ready meals for the first few days, and checking out the on board systems we are ready to leave ourselves. When I go to pay the Marina bill the office is closed. I manage to get the headman out who tells me that the Government is making cuts and from now there is no opening at weekends—oh if he had put a note on the doors! Anyway after completing the paperwork we are ready to slip . As I said to the policeman our next port could be Rabat (Morocco) - if the winds are fair, Madeira if we get headed, or Vila de Porto if we have any problems or Malcolm's finger is not up to it. As Barry and Gail came to see us off we noticed that the guardrail at the gate had almost worn through. This was probably due to the pounding it had taken while alongside in the rough weather. Some gash tape and some rope for a secondary safety line suffices until we can get it fixed.

Ponta Del Guada,Sao Miguel, 21st August.

August still
Well what a good sail ! Which ended anchoring off the marina at Praia de Vittoria for a couple of days. This was when we realised that the genny problem was still with us! And the gas finally ran out. It was easier to move into the marina to get a refill and be able to access the shops for fresh veg etc. It also meant that Malcolm could begin testing again. He had got to the last lead and found an earth leak where a well insulated wire had rubbed right through to the metal casing and was causing a short. This was easily repaired and since the guy who helped us was having a look at Roakaldais he came over and added a few cable ties Yes ! Otto & Ester arrived on the Monday and had a meal with us which was preceded by a bottle of Champagne to celebrate ‘Piano’s birthday. They are returning to Lisbon en route for Greece where Otto will be doing a cargo run for 6 weeks to help a friend of his out. (Otto is a real Captain—but semi retired. Esther is going along for a holiday! We hope to meet up with them later in the year either in Rabbat or the Canaries.
The following day a German registered Halberg Wrasse 39. With Ziggi and Leila aboard. They were en route for the north after 10 years blue water sailing. Naturally we picked their brains over places which they recommended and would avoid over dinner and drinks. Thanks to both for their valuable experience.
Next day 17.35 We decided to slip for Sao Miguel the last Island on our list for the summer. We had another good sail (by which I mean no motoring), marred by one tiny problem. To set the scene : We slipped late afternoon so that we would arrive during daylight hours. We powered along at up to 7 knots in a sou’westerly breeze. After dinner Malcolm left me on watch and I was intrepid! Not noticing that the wind had filled in and with it some horrible showers. He must have been asleep because the next I knew he was peeking his nose on deck and suggesting that we ought to ‘reef’. OK good call (spoil my fun) it could have continued increasing …..
He asked the auto pilot to drive while we attended to the reef and it must have been drenched by rain because it just gave up ! A little cursing and after the sail change I was allowed to bed. I asked if he was going to steer by hand and he said no the auto pilot was functioning but not out on deck.
He 'woke me at 0300 for my next watch and by then it was working above deck again. I found this out when I asked it to change course a wee bit and it did as it was told. However now that it has failed twice under needy conditions Malcolm is determined to sort it out so that will be the boat job for Ponta Del Gada.
Arrived Ponta Del Gada 13.30 and now I’m keen that was 90 nautical miles in 19 hours so an average of 4.75 kts. (remembering I did 7’s on my watch please!)

Terceira second visit.

2nd August. Slipped for Terceira (again). Well it really was bumpy at anchor and the generator is now playing up (very intermittently—it must feel unwanted with all the attention given to the engine -hey ho what would we do with no boat jobs I wonder?
The sail was quite fast and with me now able to do a watch or two very exhilarating ! Although it was head winds all the way we did a very respectable 6 knots on my watch which pleased me no end! Of course Malcolm did all the hard work but this time was able to get some decent sleep. No whales this trip Arrived Angra de Heroism Marina in time for ‘teef.
Nice weather meant that we could scrub off all the salt and generally ‘spring clean’ the old girl. It is her birthday on the 14th so this is a start for the celebrations (if she behaves in the meantime!) We also welcomed another technician called Mr Carlos, he spoke excellent English having worked in the UK (Scotland). He listened to all that Malcolm had tried while scratching his head and muttering, then out came the Avo and he began taking readings (always a good sign)
Next he asked for the Service book and electrical plan. He was truly amazed that everything he asked for duly appeared with no fuss at all. Both he and Malcolm ‘ummed’ and ‘ahhed’ and then they tried disconnecting the built in battery charger (which isn’t used at all). Bingo ! The genny sprang to like as though nothing had been wrong!! We both had smiles across our faces and couldn’t thank the poor chap enough—Malcolm admits he would NEVER have found the problem. We paid the bill a token of 1 hours work because he likes working on boats so much now that he is retired. So now we are able to set off again with no problems (** watch this space!)
We spent a further couple of days having some fun. A trip to Praia de Vittoria for the last day of the festival and some more time looking round Angra. We were lucky enough to get seats at a folk-dancing festival and thoroughly enjoyed it.

12th August
After refuelling and paying the Marina we slipped for Graciosa. Just 50 Nmiles—so 10 hours expected. The trip began well with plenty of wind -so 6 knots of speed was very pleasing. But as usual the wind died and the engine went on. I had a quiet bet on that we wouldn't be in by eight o’clock. I wasn’t disappointed! The harbour turned out to be smaller than the pilot had suggested and there were no berths for us. The only possibility was a slippery wall. While Malcolm was sorting the lines out a local came by and attracted his attention to an electricity cable which connected 2 street lights and ran across the corner of the harbour—just where our fore stay sat! !!! This meant that we had to keep moving the boat back away from it as the tide came in or we would have been fried! Adding to the problem was a very choppy sea and the slippery wall ( which also had slippery steps) You can only imagine what terrific fun it was to be bobbing up and down while preparing and eating our meal and then trying to catch 55 minutes sleep before the alaruum went off to move the ropes . As soon as it was light we slipped (sic) for Terceira again

Flores July/August

28th Slipped for Flores, some good sailing and of course some motoring—just as we had given up on delivery of the starter motor ,paid the marina and had to return to the office to satisfy the bureaucratic police there, the delivery man arrived with the heavy parcel ! How neat was that? The sail was awesome in that I got to see whales up close eeek! the huge head came up to have a look at us and then slowly slipped back down. A truly memorable moment. Of course, my eyes were glued to the scene and sure enough I was rewarded with many more sightings of whales blowing in the near distance and quite a few Dolphins cruising alongside. I also watched the Cory's Shearwaters (Calonectris diomedea)who only do 2-3 flaps of the wing & then glide for a couple of minutes swooping just above the waves. It looks as though they may be fishing but after much watching I have not seen any dive into the water—yet!
We arrived at Larges harbour around 7.30 in the evening and were immediately invited to dinner aboard Roakeldais. What it is to have happy friends to meet you.

30th After a rest day to fit the new SM we helped Ester & Otto with another hike. From Faja Grande to Ponta do Albarnaz. It was a decent 4KM hike up to the picnic spot with varied flowers and scenery. Flores is named for its flowers and we were not disappointed. Now that it is ‘HIGH SEASON’ there are many more plants in flower. The Yellow and Red (in Ya face) Cannas, Agapanthi, and ginger all make a terrific show, This is really the place for those who enjoy nature.
Toured the rest of the Island , namely the Lakes in the Calderas of various volcanoes. All are accessible by car and have signboards up to give useful information. The best thing is that even though it is HIGH SEASON there are so few TOURISTS ! Continued around the island stopping at viewpoints so that you can see for yourselves.
31st did some more painting with Esther on what we thought would be the new marina wall, the locals tell us it will be for fishing boats but hey it’s good practice! Also made a lemon cake & birthday-card for Esther who celebrates tomorrow.

Meanwhile here is the hike: (you may have to click to take the box away)

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Sao Jorge

Hike Pico Topo

Taxi to the start point and then a 5 km hike upwards along a dirt road built in 1944. On the way up we didn’t do the Montoso Cave which involved ropes and climbing gear. We continued up to Morro Pelado and then to Pico da Esperança (Hope peak -the highest point on Sao Jorge 1053 m). Picnic lunch at Hope Peak and afterwards continued along the road but now downwards towards Norte Grande , here we stopped for an Ice lolly! The final hike down to the Faja was VERY steep and was the only access in 1947. It did have rock steps but was extremely slippery –but it was a much shorter route that the road! Almost at the end a small detour to Simão Dias Pool which had larva columns and niches. The Restaurant at Sea level sold nice cool beers. There are no links to google for this hike since the net for the island only shows contours

Fayal, Horta

15th Day of rest & Recovery the Nav Chair broke and the image folders have now been renumbered. A sunny day so did some washing.

16th July Slipped for Fayal –Horta. Wonderful sail across just enough wind to keep the engine off and smooth enough for full enjoyment. Engine now need a hammer blow to encourage it to start. We have decided that this means it is too unreliable for emergencies and so will take it in for new brushes and order a new one from GB.

19th Visited the Whale Museum. Which showed the industry before whaling was banned. Our guide was a marine biologist who was sympathetic to the subject and also discussed the turtle problem which he was working on. Leather-backed turtles are born in America and have a difficult life from the start, so it doesn’t help when they spend their adolescence in the Azores only to be hooked on a long line meant for fish. The Turtle numbers has fallen dramatically since long line fishing became popular and of course now that the Azores are in the Common Market it means that other member countries can come closer and also do the turtles some damage. Surprisingly Turtles eat Jelly –fish (which we have seen by the thousand out at sea!) so why they even go for a long line is beyond me !

20th General Sightseeing around Horta, while taking the nav chair in to be repaired,

22nd Hired a car for the day and did the Capelo to Capelinhos walk Gave the car keys to Esther & Otto half way along. Then went to the Capelinhos Museum to learn about plate tectonics and volcanoes. The 3-D film was really superb.

24th hired mountain bikes which were taken to the top on the Caldeira and unloaded. We had expected to cycle around the rim but after starting off Ester and I decided it was ridiculous to try. Needless to say Otto and Malcolm battled on and arrived back shattered! Martin & Jean forgot to tell us that you are supposed to WALK the rim and THEN cycle back to Horta ! The guy at Peters’ Sport was gob smacked when he heard that Malcolm and Otto had actually done it !! The free-wheel down was awesome 18KM from the top down and was it fast. I was overtaken by a car at one point but kept pace with it for a fair distance afterwards.

26th Took the ferry to Pico Island where we hired another car and toured around. The spectacular scenery along the forestry road down the centre of the island will not show in the photos but I have included a selection.

The rest of our stay has been spent renewing the paintwork on our picture. The whole of the harbour wall and marina is covered with reminders of all the yachts which have been here. Piano herself has been twice before but the paintwork had deteriorated so I have brightened it up I do hope Yan & Ghislaine approve of it

Velas, Sao Jorge.

I took advice from everyone! Had a fizzy Vitamin C drink for breakfast, Stugeron (25mg) and the wrist bands! The passage was calm and enjoyable no rolly wave motion and I felt fine throughout ! (note to remind myself to try the same again ) We both had lunch and dinner while en route and also a couple of hour kip. Yes we were rewarded with more dolpins and rather a sea full of Jelly fish. The wind died completely towards dawn and when we checked with the Marina ‘Jose’ told us that he was expecting 26 yachts from the Horta to Velas race later in the day. (Some hope with no wind I thought) anyway we anchored and unloaded ‘Cresendo’ so that we could get ashore. Needless to say the harbour was packed! After checking in with the police we has a look round and found various stages and booths set up ready for the weekends entertainment. Since they has changed the dates and not the publicity it was the end of the Fiesta. However, we had plenty to fill our first weekend.
We waited until eleven o’clock for the procession to begin and had a few beers…..

On Sunday it was sizzling so I had a day on washing the deck. Malcolm meanwhile went to see the “Tourada à Corda” the street bullfighting. This one was on the harbour wall with containers to provide safe viewing for the public. It also meant any easy exit to the sea if the bull got too close, except one bull fancied a swim and jumped in !
Meanwhile, the Marina which had emptied during the day had started to fill again.
On Monday I went to sign in for the week and so did many more arrivals! Amongst whom were another British boat “Freedom To…” It was great to exchange stories on deck in the heat of the evening.
Tuesday we took a taxi to Serra do Topo for the start of a 10km downhill hike. The top was covered with low cloud but we had soon walked down out if it - into a pleasantly cool day. The views of the valleys below from this height were amazing! We couldn’t see much of the island coastline though. Images are in Picasa as always and the flora are in the other folder. After this epic 4 hour hike we had a couple of cool beers while waiting for our taxi driver. The final 3km were along the coast at sea level. The only track into the very small village is only passable with a 4 wheel dune buggy. We were passed by some walkers with their guide as it started to rain and no sooner than I had thought how nice a ride would be an Islander stopped and offered us a lift.
Thursday we hired a car and had a trip to the Western end and then the Cheese Factory where we had a guided tour. Next the church at Santa Barbara and along to the Eastern end to a town called Topo.
Images are on Picasa.

Angra Do Heroismo

18th Took the bus to Angra do Heroísmo and climbed Monte Brazil, then had a picnic at the top. Returned to the city which has World Heritage Status and followed the tourist route around to see the sights. It was a tiring day but well worth the effort. The buildings are renovated to a high standard and have fresh paint, which adds to the beauty. Pictures on Picasa will have any explanation necessary.
19th we hired a car and followed the costal route to Angra for the start of the Feira (Festival) How amazing that Otto & Esther had arrived while we had been sightseeing yesterday and we were able to catch up with them and see the Carnival procession—after a local meal of “alcatra” a meat stew. After the procession the music began at the marina. By this time we had begun to tire so finished up aboard Roakeldais for coffee and then wended our way back up to the car for the drive home. A very late night (2.30 am again!)
20th took the gentle walking route (TER 8) Interesting for its volcanic items. The first are Oxen cart tracks in the larva. ‘V’ shaped tracks were made 200 years ago and ‘U’ shaped ones slightly later as wheel technology improved. The path is a goldmine of flora and fauna and is sooo green! The water table is just below the surface which means that Japanese Red Cedars, Australian Blackwood, Eucalyptus and Eastern Cottonwood are able to grow. At ground level (where it is more humid there are carpets of moss, ferns, Sweet pittosporum, heather, and ginger.
Volcanic larva flowed over this land over 3,000 years ago and the very fluid basaltic larva from the Guilherme Moniz Caldera produced the landscape over which we have just walked. A large outcrop of larva attracted our attention which had cavities left by volcanic ‘bombs’ and a small larva tunnel. When knocked the rock sounded hollow! Back at the picnic area we see how the larva flowed over the existing sub soil at a public viewing area. This was the same flow which formed the Biscoito das Fontinhas (the area made into a sea bathing are we visited the other day)
21st, As forecast Monday began overcast with 79% humidity and deteriorated to Cornish ‘Mizzle’ ! Plenty to keep us occupied aboard routine checks etc plus preparation for the next passage to Sao Jorge.

Terceira, Açores.

Sunday 13th June.
After doing the shopping we all did a circular walk around a peak in a volcanic area. In parts it was quite challenging scrambling over sharp volcanic rocks which had trees and moss to make the climb more difficult (and slippery). The landscape and views were magnificent and well worth the effort - I’m beginning to ‘like’ this walking hobby!
Back to the car and we see that the interpretive centre is open which also has a volcanic cave below -which we have a look at. It also has larva tunnels much bigger than we visited in the Galapagos.Photos for this in Folder ‘Pico Gordo Walk’
(Google maps not so good for this one)


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Terceira, Açores.

Well, I’m not going to spoil the beauty of this island by telling you of the trip here, suffice it to say that Malcolm enjoyed it.
We arrived very early on the morning of Friday, 11th June (02.30am) and ended up mooring alongside, Roakeldais. After catching up on sleep we became more social and caught up with Esther and Otto who were very pleased to see us again.
On the Saturday, said friends needed some help—they wanted to do a walk which was not circular and asked if we would do it from the other end, meet them in the middle, take the car keys and drive back to pick them up. Great plan and it worked perfectly. The walk was blissful, down a dried out stream valley to the sea and then along the coast. Pictures on Picasa (Aqualuva Hike). The fun happened afterwards… we made a detour to a winery and while tasting the produce had our pictures taken for a news article in Mondays paper! After this we encountered a large herd of cows wandering along the lane to be milked –which delayed us a bit, next a herd of goats which moved a little faster but which couldn’t be overtaken! This on the way to “tourada a corda”. The main street is defended with boards to protect the buildings from damage and a young happy bull is allowed to wander around. ‘Brave men’ wave capes in front of him and he wants to play but when he approaches the men run and so it goes on. At no point does the bull get hurt (which is the good thing) but he does get pretty tired running about chasing his playmates and after 30 minutes he is re-boxed and another is used. It is a great social occasion with the whole town out to watch. Peanut and ice cream sellers refresh the crowds and a fair bit of drinking goes on in the bars along the street . It is from here that we stand (protected ) to watch.

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Pico Alto to Anjos Walk

Pico Alto to Anjos walk.
This is another medium skill walk of 14 km and has a suggested walking time of 4 hours (we took nearer 6).
We began by getting a lift from Otto & Ester who are in the marina with us and who had hired a car for the day. They accompanied us to the Peak and then went to do the Santa Barbara walk which we had recommended to them.
So as you will see from the pictures it was MOSTLY downhill and so for me very enjoyable. The first half down the mountainside was also pleasantly cool. Once again there was evidence that the paths dept had been at work laying pine clippings as an anti slip aid—which I thought was very thoughtful of them! Where the plant growth allowed we had excellent views of the island and far out to sea even San Miguel. Once at the foot the vegetation changed radically, from Japanese Red Cedar stretching to the sky– to Fire trees and Azorean Cacti. We tracked around the edge of the Barreiro da Faneca (Red Desert) and then had our picnic. Suitably replete we continued to Baia de Crė and then down to Ribeira do Lemos, a small stream which needed crossing. The last couple of kms were across pastureland and lead very neatly down to a statue of C. Columbus and then to the town Lido. Here we had a couple of beers with Ester & Otto who very kindly gave us a lift back to the marina. They too had had a brilliant day.
After publishing this I see that the link opens in the blog so you need to look for Almagreira which is the nearest place to Pico Alto from there we went up the page along the ridge and then broadly across to Anjos.


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Baia da Formosa Santa Maria Acores

One thing I miss since leaving Darby Green is the lack of Garden so I have been cultivating pictures and scenes from our walks to watch in my old age. Santa Maria has a huge variety of indigenous flora. All my favourites Canna,Ginger,a white Tiger Lily which looks like an Amaryllis—no sign of Lily beetles here though. Nasturtiums and morning Glory are rampant on most mountainsides. If I have wrongly identified any then please use the comment facility on the blog to correct me. Flora are to be found in a separate folder on Picasa (hopefully it is public)


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which can also be found on Picasa with the images.
This was supposed to be a short walk to a nearby bay (HA!) It turned out to take 3 hours and was quite hilly, the up side was that as we passed a house with the dogs loose they decided to accompany us. They were overjoyed to be taken on a walk and made the most of it . They knew all the local fields, covering far more kilometers than I did. Fortunately we were able to persuade them to rest up in their own back garden when we got there! We took the main road back to Vila de Porto which was less hilly and a little longer. Altogether a very satisfying walk.

Santa Maria. Aςores.

Santa Maria.
Well I have fully recovered from Mal de Mer but it took 2 days to get my land legs again!
We have been here about 10 days and have had a brilliant time. The Marina has an excellent ‘Club Naval’ with bar and restaurant. For most of the week we have been one of three yachts—very peaceful indeed! It has only rained twice and both times it was lovely warm rain. So here are a few details.
Both the engine and the generator cured themselves miraculously ( I think the resident baby spiders have had a leg or two involved in our boat gremlins) The washing machine door took a week to mend - it was the catch which had become misplaced and would not close the door. This meant no washing . To cut a long story short we managed to get a full diagram from the manufacturer and had a go ourselves and we fixed it!!!
Now as for the Island of Santa Maria nearest village is also the center of administration ‘Vila de Porto’ it is good exercise being 20 minute hike uphill (of course everywhere is from the marina!) Fortunately there is a bus up so I cheated most of the times. There is a very old Fort on the hill just above the Marina. An old cannonball and ships nail have been recovered from the Marina while it was being built which now have pride of place on display in the Marina Office. The town has three streets with the central on having most shops (supermarket, Chinese, Fancy goods, and everything else you could want). The Municipal Market is on another street and while not as prosperous as Portimao it did have a greengrocer and a selection of butchers & fishmongers.
We did two of the three walks recommended by the Marina/tourist Office. (the Third was closed due to the repairs needed after the winter storms which had removed some of the pathway. The start of the first trek was a bus ride away at Santa Barbara. It began and ended at the Church and was a circular walk which took us a slow 4 hours. The island has some outstanding vistas and in all cases the views are best from high up. There was strong evidence of the path managements’ team doing routine maintenance. All pictures are on Picasa ready for viewing. Separate entries for other walks so I can put more images on!!

18th May Passage to Aςores.

The Passage to Aςores.

After rushing about making the final preparations, we finally left Portimao in the early afternoon of May 18, hoping that the 750nm passage to Ponta Delgado would take between 6 and 7 days. Along the coast of the Algarve the wind was very light and variable, with an annoying swell. However,as daylight faded and we approached Cabo San Vicente, the wind rapidly piped up to over 20 knots from the North and we soon had 3 reefs in. We had delayed the evening meal too long, so that we ended up with everything happening at once—darkness, reefing and eating. For Sue this would turn out to be the only meal of the trip!

The next day and a half passed uneventfully, making good progress on a beam reach in a Northerly Force 4-5. For a while we picked up a couple of hitchhikers, in the form of a couple of little birds who explored the boat thoroughly before flying off. Sue wasn’t well enough to get out of her bunk, so it was a bit tiring for me being on watch the whole time, although I did manage to snatch enough sleep to get by. The shipping was pretty heavy initially but thinned out quite a bit, as we made our way west. I was very thankful for the AIS to help me assess the ships around us.

The morning of the second full day at sea turned out to be a defining moment for the trip. I went to start the generator as normal to replenish the batteries after the night but absolutely nothing happened. Eventually I spotted that everytime I pressed the preheat switch, a relay on the generator tripped out. This had happened once before when in harbour but on that occasion, just resetting the relay fixed things. Now, it seemed permanent though, so it looked as if we would have to rely on the engine for charging, which was less than ideal. Even less ideal was the fact that when I started the engine, the starter motor failed to disengage—the same problem as had lead to us buring out the previous starter motor earlier in the year. This time we spotted the problem quickly and realized that it was caused by the key not returning to its proper position after starting, so it was easily fixed. The engine was now running but we didn’t know whether we had damaged the starter motor, so we were faced with a dilemma. Should we turn the motor off once the batteries were charged and take the risk that we couldn’t get it started again or play for safety and leave it running. We chose the safe but noisy option and left it running for the next 100 hours!

A little after this we suffered the final setback of the trip, when the forecasts started showing the weather to be becoming rather unfavourable. A depression moving out from between Portugal and N Africa in a few days time was going to pinch the isobars together, increasing the wind but more significantly changing the direction into the NW. The best tactics for us appeared to be to stay on a beam reach on starboard tack and let the backing wind carry us down to the South. For once, things played out just as planned. By the early hours of 23 May , the wind had backed and freshened to Force 6-7 and instead of heading straight for Ponta Delgado on Sao Miguel, our course was taking us halfway between Santa Maria and Madeira! However, the condition weren’t too unpleasant, as we had very little in the way of rain and a fair amount of sunshine. By then end of May 24, the wind had started to moderate and veer back a little. With it forecast to go back into the North but very light, it made sense to change our destination to Santa Maria, so we could turn the engine off as soon as possible! At first light on 25 May we tacked and with a little help from the engine, were shaping a reasonable course towards Santa Maria.
By midday we had more typical Azorean weather with a glassy calm sea and were glad of the mechanical horse. The dead calm didn’t last too long and then we had gentle Force 2-3 until, at sunset, I sighted the island 30 miles to the North. The pilot book advised against a first time night entry into the harbour of Vila do Porto, so we sailed very gently onwards until we about 10 miles off, then waited for dawn. There was no other traffic about, so this gave me the opportunity to catch up on some much-needed sleep. Eventually the sun rose behind the island, heralding a beautiful morning and all the tribulations of the voyage were forgotten. At 9am we were safely secured in the marina where, in spite of the hour, I celebrated with a cold beer. The marina is only 2 years old and people don’t seem to have discovered it yet, so it was almost empty. There were just 6 yachts when we arrived but no other British ones among them. In the best Azorean tradition, the staff were very friendly and helpful, with no language problems, so we could soon settle back to recover from the voyage. Instead of 6-7 days, it had taken almost 8 days and we had ended up at a different island from that originally intended but we had made it in one piece!!