First a walk to the meeting place where the Grand Taxi could navigate the tiny alleys-then we were off through thick rush hour traffic and onto the open road to the Ourika Valley. Just 60 km or so but the second 30 km were along country lanes and so the speed was much less since the taxi driver was trying to keep it in good condition. We stopped a couple of times to take pictures but each time we were accosted by hawkers selling jewellery etc which would have meant bartering (and we are not into that ).Included in the itinerary was a stop at a working mill. It was run by diverting water in a very simple fashion and produced sufficient for the local population who brought there own grain and had it ground to whichever grade they wanted (from powder to couscous) . The miller spoke good English and showed us the living accommodation adjoining the mill. Here his wife and baby daughter were sitting by the fire . We also saw the well stocked larder bedrooms and a small garden looking out onto the land he farms with all his crops. I guess he was self sufficient he certainly looked a happy chappy.
By complete contrast we next stopped at Co-operative Feminine Tiguemine Argan. They ran a small industry from the harvest of Arcan trees. These are ancient trees with nuts rather similar to Acorns. The tree is specially adapted to dry desert soils found in the North of Morocco. When the harvest comes in the ladies crack the outer shell with a stone (by hand) the seed gets broken to almond like flakes husks are used as animal feed. The flakes are then ground to a paste again by hand and the liquor drained off. It is then mixed with water when the oil separates and can be poured off and the remaining mash used for making soap. In short nothing is wasted! The various parts are then the raw materials for production of an impressive line of goods. We tasted Arcan oil (30E /300 ml) Arcan mixed with honey (jam) and Arcan with oranges (marmalade). The oil has a delicate flavour when compared to Olive oil and no wonder it is so expensive when it takes 60 Kg of nuts to make 1L of oil BY HAND! Other products are soap hand cream shampoo etc etc the list is extensive. Well out of our price range but we did buy a token bottle of oil for Salad dressings.
Finally we arrived at our destination the Setti Fatma. Here the going was especially slow due to all the tourists arriving in Taxis and mini vans. The area was flooded in 1995 and is presently being rebuilt so you can imagine the chaos. No matter we were introduced to our guide Mascan who also spoke fair English. He then led us up a trail into the mountain to reach a waterfall. Here the towns co-operative have the monopoly on all goods. Wherever there is space there is a ‘shop’. One owner told us that all the items are made in the town and are therefore much cheaper than in Marrakech (Ha?). We continued quite a strenuous climb upward. Mascan had said my sandals were suitable but I would rather have been wearing my walking boots! He always gave me a helping hand on the more tricky parts which was sweet of him. Once at the waterfall we had a rest and our picture taken since that was what everybody else was doing and we didn’t want to disappoint our guide. We began our descent and stopped for goodies .It was a feelgood factor to purchase from this gentle co-operative where ,yes there was sales pressure but not the same kind as in the Marrakech souks. We had certainly paid over the odds because once we had paid the shop owner offered me a free bracelet ! After the climb down our guide asked us if we wanted to see the rest of the village we said maybe after lunch.
Lunch was down by the waterside and very tasty. Served in a Tajine I had tiny meatballs in a spicy rich tomato sauce. Malcolm had a Tajine of Lemon chicken (he left the olives). By the time we were replete we realized that after the drive back to town we would only just make the train home. We gave the village a miss.
The train was waiting at the station and left on time. Unfortunately we had a few unlisted stops but generally made up the missed time. Arrived back aboard ‘Piano’ who had been well behaved while we were away and was pleased to see us again.
As I write we have been waiting for a slot to make passage for Madeira, Malcolm is not happy about the big swell which is forecast as we arrive so we look to be here for some time yet...
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