Thursday 13 December 2012

Happy Christmas Everyone!

We Wish all our Avid Readers , Family &  Friends,
A Very Merry Christmas,
A Joyful New Year,
Peace, Prosperity and Good Health
with Lots of Love from 
Sailor Sue
&
Captain Malcolm
XXX

And how's this for an Natural Christmas Tree...

Calcareous Tube Worms.
Two spiraled crowns of radioles, with double-horned operculum between.  Tubes usually hidden: a single sharp spike protrudes from the edge of the opening.  The colour and patterns of the radioles are variable though most frequently shades of brown, orange, maroon, and white.  They are abundant in the Caribbean inhabiting all areas of a reef-  the tubes are usually encased in living coral!  They are typically shy of divers and retract down their tubes and close the openings with operculum when threatened or approached but if you are prepared to wait the crown may slowly extend and reopen.
   The only visit of note this week is that we took  ‘Crescendo’ over to Klein Bonaire Island .  This is another flat and deserted island 1/2 a mile from our mooring.  It was privately owned until 1999 when the government bought it  for $5m (financed bt the Netherlands govt. and rich ‘Friends’). There are plans to add it to the National Park as the surrounding waters are already under the Parks protection. Here we completed our first real dive on our own.  We were down for 20 minutes and neither of us had any problems with buoyancy or water filling our masks.  No images taken (sorry) but the water was clear and we saw plenty of coral and fish.  The swim back to ’Crescendo’ was the worst part but no pain no gain as they say ...
     I won’t bore you with all the diving stuff, suffice to say that my depth gauge has died and I now have a dive computer (it was as cheap as a new gauge!) so I could set the depth alaarm for 9.5 m so that I could take the camera down without wrecking it.  I have pasted the image of a Christmas tree worm on the Christmas greeting for you all nearer Christmas day! I have had the first of Christmas letters from those who are more prepared than I. I live in hope that some of you will email with your yearly news.

Wednesday 5 December 2012

Goodbye Trinidad hello passage to Bonaire via Grenada


Thursday 15th November
     We said “Cheerio” to our friends aboard ‘Wings’ ‘La Aventura’ & ‘Starsteam’, plus everyone who plays Mexican Train Dominoes on a Sunday afternoon, then a last minute change of plans to stay for a meal with ‘Andromeda’ and the managers cocktail party on the Wednesday.  So it was Thursday afternoon before we slipped for St Georges, Grenada.  The trip was memorable in that we had the new Yankee sail to try for the first time and we Flew! Mind you we didn’t have any reefs in the main to slow us down and the current was with us.  We arrived while I was asleep and Malcolm had even had to slow down to be sure that Customs etc were open when we arrived.  We haven’t been back here since the fiasco with the dirty fuel last year and our dear friends John & Mary– who are back in France doing the Med this year.
     We decided to leave for BONAIRE on Tuesday quite early (0800) and once again we had a good trip, It took just over three days. No rain and no calm for motoring.  Since it was downwind Malcolm poled out the Yankee and put 3 reefs in the main so that it was comfortable and manageable for the whole trip. We arrived 13.30 ish on Friday and found a mooring buoy easily and close to the main town of Kralendijk.  We checked in at C & I and were made very welcome.  Next a short walk along the seafront before an afternoon beer, swim and early night.
By Wednesday we needed to find green veggies and other essentials so strolled into the largest supermarket.  This was quite a walk but well worth it.  The Dutch have all the products from home in one store plus extras like the peanut sauce mix we tasted in Suriname last year, ready mixed Chinese stir fry, and ‘Heavy duty Mayonnaise’...whatever that is ???

  Back aboard for a light lunch and cool snorkel then Malcolm went to book a car.  I decided to make a cake for T and had just begun when the bilge alaarm went off eeek!  I switched the fresh water pressure system off and then looked under the sink only to find a drip , so turned all handles the other way to try and stop it. (which it did) and the alaarm also went off so I finished the cake in peace.  When Malcolm returned we had T and lemon cake before trying to trace the intermittent squeak from the bilge pump.  By 8.30 that evening the bilge was dry and the pump was making no squeaks even with the fresh water system ON.  - but we hadn’t found any leak…. So decided to call it a night and eat.
Next morning no further problems so left the F/W pump off and went ashore to the National Park.

Bonaire by Truck.

       We drove out along the West coast road into Rincon hoping to get coffee but nowhere was open. Next we checked in at the park office with our paperwork and photo ID and were told to have climbed the highest mountain by 12 noon.  This being Put Brandaris at 241m /748 ft.

 I almost made it but the breeze was so cool I waited while Malcolm strove for the final ascent, in all it had taken about 1 3/4 hours. We then continued around the short route to find a spot of beech to cool off in.  Malcolm snorkelled here .
     Day 2 with the truck we set off for the Eastern coast at Washikemba  Pink Flamingos were minding their own business in the Lagoon near the coast so we stopped to watch for a while.  They are phenomenally well adapted to their life style.  Their necks are long to reach under water and filter the mud, which they stir up with their feet and their bill is adapted with fine filters to sort either algae when they are young or small molluscs when they are older. Of course everyone knows that their pink colour comes from eating prawns so there is a lack of these delicacies in town restaurants.  We passed the island land fill tip which has had an impact on the other tourist attractions around here.  Whatever is blown out to sea is driven back by the prevailing currents all along the eastern coast as far as Lac Bay and beyond. We next missed out on the canoe around the mangrove swamps and snorkel session.  The 2.30 session did not run on a Thursday.  So we dropped by at the Butterfly Farm—and found that it closed early on a Thursday so even lunch there was out.  We continued to Lac Bay to have our picnic and found a beautiful beach with white coral sand and azure water. We snorkelled here before driving round to the other arm of the bay to do more snorkelling off the inside off the reef.  From here we made tacks for home stopping briefly at the light house and slave quarters.  Most of the Southern end of the Island is below sea level.  Consequently it has been used for salt production  for its entire known life—and still is.  There is a Flaming Sanctuary in the middle which no one can get to , rather more of a token effort than a tourist attraction methinks, still its fine for the birds who get peace and quiet.
We stop for a final beer at Karols Bar before Malcolm whips up a stunning Chinese meal.

Day 3
   Return to the National Park. We return by driving the easy route via the North East coast to view the Indian inscriptions painted on the rocks.  Today it’s torrential rain until 11 o’clock so we are slowed down by bad visibility.  We arrive at the park office to sign in and then do the Lagadishi walk This is cooler than normal due to the rain and the ‘Blowhole’ is magnificent, my camera work does not do it justice!  We pass more lakes with Flamingos and stop at all the viewpoints.  Including the Playa Chikitu a dune and sandy beach area which is used for nesting sea turtles.  Seru Grandi made of two rock terraces, the highest is 1 million years old.  The lower is merely 210,000 years old both were caused by the rise and fall of sea levels.  Boka Kokolishi this beach has pulpit like structures which provides protection from the strong waves and spectacular splashes.  Pos Mangel a freshwater bird watching area with bonus iguanas added.  Then back to Playa Wayaka where we have our best snorkel session yet! Crystal clear waters and such a mirad of huge fish which have no fear of being in the wave breaking area around the underwater coral.  The Park wardens catch up with us as we are leaving to tell us that we are late leaving this area and follow us back collecting other late leavers.
     Saturday 1st December practice dive off ‘Piano’ all went well however Malcolm is still not happy with the old BCD. He persevered but has decided to get a new one on Monday.
Monday 3rd December.  First into the dive shop and bought a new BCD for the Captain together with some clips and new wet shoes for me.  Coffee then another practice dive with Malcolms’ new BCD.  The problem now is that with a 1/2 empty tank he hasn’t enough weight to get down so yet more strife , still it’s all a leaning curve and we will remember in future.  Monday evening we went to Captain Dons dive place and had sundowners and a BBQ with many divers who are on holiday here.  Then along to a brilliant talk on Coral by Dee who had plenty of slides and many stories of her life as an eco diver.  She has written books and done various research with sea life and since there were only 4 of us had time to talk and answer questions.


Tuesday we took the tanks to be filled and had a chat with 'Asko' who is the general manager for 5 dive shops and speaks English like a Londoner!  Wednesday we went back to show that we could do a buoyancy check and our instructor told me I only needed 2 Kg! Which I can carry in the BCD pockets instead of having a dive belt!
Then we took ‘Crescendo’ over to Klein Bonaire Island and did our first real dive on our own.  We were down for 20 minutes and neither of us had any problems with buoyancy or water filling our masks.  No images taken (sorry) but the water was clear and we saw plenty of coral and fish.  The swim back to ’Crescendo’ was the worst part but no pain no gain as they say ...
All other photos are in a new folder called Bonaire, so do have a look and ask if you need the URL- smileXX
     


Monday 5 November 2012

November before we leave....


Bits & Pieces for Christmas.

     Debbie, the lady who makes swimwear for cruisers brought a flyer for a Christmas Bazaar.  So I organised a maxi and took 12 friends along for a shopping treat.  There were all sorts of artisans, wooden crafts, candles, jewellery, leather goods, photography, Christmas ornaments, and food on sale.  Rather like a Country Markets Christmas fair!.  Many of the jams and chutney makers had tasting tables, as did the cakes.  All the food samples was delicious.  When asked some of the producers said that they had trained at the catering school which we had lunch at last month.  Their produce is also on sale at ‘Malabar Meats’ where we shop on a Tuesday!  I bought Mango Chutney because I can’t remember where I stashed the jar I made in Suriname last Christmas and Lemon curd because I can’t find yellow lemons for love nor money out here. The ‘Mint Pesto’ (made with fresh mint and Ricotta cheese will have to wait ‘til I go to Malabar tomorrow).  All those producers who had a website or facebook page got a mention on the Trinidad facebook page.  I hope that they get some cruisers business in the future. Cocobell single estate chocolate is a must for next year if we are here.

   Pan, Parang, & Pork...Party!
Queens Park Cricket Ground (car Park) Port of Spain, Trinidad.

      Sunday, it rained so I spent most of the day aboard copying videos onto our hard drive, note to self must get another hard drive as we are running short of space.  I missed Mexican Train Dominoes but was able to dress and prepare for the party. It began at 5.30 food served around 7 ish and steel pan music, local groups and entertainment, together with free Dewars 12 year old Malt whiskey, and Chennet wine made the liming very easy.  There was so much food left over that we were invited to take doggy bags home—but most people were too full to contemplate any more to eat!
     Our first Christmas party and it’s only the 5th of November.  I expect you are in the midst of Firework Parties as I write?  If we are here for Divali this year we should get fireworks with the evenings entertainment otherwise we will have to wait for New Year.

Let me also say that 'Piano' has been a good girl this last month or so.  She did motor down to Scotland Bay last weekend at 2 knots, because sitting in the warm Caribbean waters the prop was covered in Barnacles.
Judy & Fred (S/Y Wings) had sufficient time to calibrate various instruments and still get there before us!

S/Y Wings at Scotland Bay, Trinidad.

 The outboard had to be 'SEEN TOO' by our new best friend Chris (S/Y Quicksilver).  The topsides are looking seriously clean with a household mould remover on the top gun bimini etc, and all teak has been brightened and looks like new, we really did deserve the liming after all the hard work.

Friday 26 October 2012

26th October 2012. Gasparee Caves, Gaspar Grande,Trinidad.


      A pleasant Friday morning, after the 8.30 net was finished we sauntered to the dinghy dock at the Barracuda Bar for a 9.30 pick-up courtesy of Skizzo's Water Taxi. A 30 minute ride over glassy calm water which was pleasantly clear of rubbish for a change. We docked at the historic 'Point Baleine', a former whaling station. Here we were greeted by 'Coach' our guide for the visit. Coach has known of these limestone caves since he was a boy, his geological knowledge has grown since then making the experience truly enjoyable and educational. During term time pupils visit as part of their curriculum.
So, onwards and upwards a 10 minute walk up a 30 degree incline which took us to the northern side of the island.

  Here was a classroom / rest-stop with a verandah to view the seascape and drink cool water. Next a 20 degree incline down to the cave system on the southern side. Coach told us when he was a boy he and his friends used to enter via a tree with a rope to scramble down. Nowadays, the CDA, have provided steps and electric lights so that tourists and pupils can visit without disturbing this ecological niche. There were no rules about taking digital photos..... if only I could find the correct settings!


AND we were allowed to swim in the 'Blue Grotto' – a 30 m pool in the main cave. Here at the right time of day the sunlight dapples the aquamarine pool. Although neither too cold nor freshwater it was pleasantly refreshing after the hike to get there.


      Animal life on the island? Well, we were told there are snakes and small mammals, large arthropods (-one had fallen into the pool!), and fruit bats which, being nocturnal were roosting. I think some were light sleepers as a few flew around as we passed by.
Lastly how amazing – Barnacle Bill noticed a 'Challenge' T-shirt, a member of the Compac crew so they had a chat on the taxi ride home. I'm still waiting for the update on BB's hike to the falls the other week, don't hold your breath waiting....


Thursday 4 October 2012

Lunch Out Monday 1st October


          A day off from all the boat jobs and mundane housework.
  Coffee before we set off then a Maxi ride to the Trinidad & Tobago Hospitality and Tourism Institute. For just £12.50 (plus wine) we had an eight course lunch.
Nibbles (a small flavourful nan bread) and the house cocktail Moccha & Milk, which turned out to be rather like Iced Baileys.
 The theme was ‘Indian’ and had the usual Trinny interpretation of food. Appetisers were Samosas. Beef with Sweet Peas & Cauliflower Pakora and served with Tamarind & cucumber Raitas.

Soup - Cream of tomato sambar with cumin, chilli flatbread.

Salad. A combination of cranberries, coconut, carrots, purple & white cabbage, tomatoes and cashews with a coconut curry yoghurt.

Fish. Almond & coconut crusted snapper fillet with tomato & turmeric broth.

Pineapple mint sorbet.

Pork Loin braised in tomato based curry sauce, with Bombay Aloo fused with mustard seeds.
Chicken Tikka Marsala. Chicken braised with sprigs of cinnamon & cloves, in a basket of light flakey pastry. Served with Basmati rice.

Dessert. Three Ways Slide. A trio of pistachio & banana yogurt/gulub jamlin/peanut butter fudge.



 Malcolm had the Pork , I had the Chicken, on out return to ‘Piano’ we had a cup of Tea before a laze by the pool.  Sundowners without alcohol, a game of Crib then back to bed.

Sunday 23 September 2012

Return to Trinidad

Trinidad & Tobago 50th Independence Day Celebrations 2012.



Back to Trinidad and the 50th Independence Celebration.  It was a fantastic free show at one of the Cricket grounds, everyone got a free commemoration mug.  The floor show was similar to the Olympic Opening Ceremony, with flamboyant costumes and dance. An appearance by the Prime Minister! who waved a small flag around. Afterwards fireworks, and then people began to leave thinking it was over- but the compare called them back and said the evening was just beginning he had top bands lined up and it was due to go on 'til 3 in the morning.  They certainly know how to have a great party here.  We left about 11.30 thoroughly worn out.
The 50th has had a knock on effect with shops giving away items some useful and some edible all in the spirit of advertising I think.
  We have just had a visit from a guy called Michael who heard Malcolm on the net , he came over to see us and 'Piano' he had sung with Yan EVERY Sunday in Italy when they were there! They now have a house at the top of the hill here in Trinidad.  He had skyped Ghislaine to ask her  before he came how sweet eh ?
Time so far has been thwarted by no sim card for the phone for over a week.  Now that we have one the jobs are flying along. As I write it is Tuesday today so I'm off shopping for the next week, but thank goodness we have the halogen hobs because the gas cooker is not working at the moment.  Malcolm is on to it so I hope it is solved soon- you know how I like roast spuds!
The life raft has just gone in for it's first service check,  we went to view it while it was open.




.....and the new 'tent' (or Bimini) ,spray hood etc had been looked at with a view to cleaning and nothing works 'Carlos ' the man of the moment says we ought to get out money back he has never seem such a mould infected fabric! watch this space for more.
Back from shopping, free coffee at Malibar meats how's that for friendly shopping?
The gas man cometh and taketh away the parts so no oven ‘til he returns, and the woodworker will give us his estimate tomorrow with a date that he can do the work.
The pool was warm today (35C) but I only had 1/2 hour!!


Well I have been remiss in writing our blog.  Apologies to our avid readers but  if you were here you would understand that life rolls on in the Caribbean fashion.  I need a really good excuse not to just ‘Lime’ all day!
The gas solenoid is mended and we are back to Roasts on a Sunday evening yipee.
The Yanmar engine has been serviced as has the Westerbeke generator.  We still haven't tracked down the loss of coolant but it is looking more and more as though it may be vapour escaping from the filler cap so that should be easy to rectify!  Can you imagine the mess aboard with junk from the spaces around said engines, plus all the tools etc. the cockpit was  a junk store too with umpteen cans of oil and spare parts.  On top of all that we are having some of the headlinings replaced
The good news is that a local  seamistress called Debbie is presently copying swimsuits and bikinis for a group of us so we will be very chic around the pool at sundowners time!
Last weekend we did a trip to the Angustura Rumfest which involved demonstration cooking with Rum,  talks/lectures on blending, as well as the ubiquitous rum tasting!
More down to earth was a shopping trip to Badwansinghs, a hardware store where we bought a new gas bottle amongst other things.
Last night we went to TTSA , The sailing club just down the road and had 'Hog Roast' which was pretty yummy - if two hours later than billed. Never mind we caught up with old friends and made some new ones, I forgot the camera so I'll let you see them next time.

Friday 15 June 2012

Antigua -Late May-Early June.


  Tuesday 29 th May we motored round to English Harbour and anchored right next to ‘Flawless ’D’ so went straight over to ask Kat & Jim over for sundowners.  They are without their auto pilot and will have to hand steer until it is fixed.  They have no Aries wind vane ! Poor things! Still they seem happy enough and we told them that Vincent in St Lucia is good at fixing electrical stuff.
Wednesday we started off at 07.30 am en passage for St Lucia.  No more buoys for ‘Piano’ but a mixture of dead calm and 35 knots of wind meant that we didn’t arrive in Rodney Bay until 23.30! on Thursday evening.  Needless to say we had a lie in on Friday then moved into the Marina where Marie (Mia Tia) came to welcome us back. Malcolm checked us in and was then greeted by Vincent and various others who remembered ‘Piano’.  I did 3 loads of washing and general tidying up after the voyage then lunch and off to the pool.  While I was absent Malcolm has decided that the Navigation computer has a serious problem and of course no back up since his computer is also dead ooops looks like some old fashioned Navigation is called for on the rest of the trip to Trinidad .

Saturday 2nd June Just the usual shopping to restock supplies, bliss in a proper supermarket!
Sunday day 3rd June Visited Aisey & Bridget but quite unexpectedly were welcomed by Deirdre! Who was over visiting.  Plenty of news to swap since they were not here when we passed through at the start of  the season.
Monday 4th June paid the Marina and checked out to anchor, then left Rodney Bay 11.00 p.m. after a couple of hours sleep for a night sail to Bequia.
Tuesday 5th June Arrived Bequia 12.55, lunch ashore but no choice since there had been an all night party and they were short of food.  Still it was filling and tasty so no complaints.
Wednesday 6th June
  Bequia too windy to dive  so I made a cake from a packet !!!! It turned out well—into more of a gateaux! Yummy!
Thursday 7th June.
After a run ashore to get butter and chocolate we stopped for coffee and decided to ask at Dive Bequia about Malcolm's’ BCD, so back aboard to dig it and the empty tank out and then back ashore where Cathy and her husband managed to sort the leaky fill valve out and fill the tank.   All this bt 13.30 so we prepared to sail from Bequia to Mayreaux. 25 miles we were cutting it fine as we wanted to arrive during daylight.  The wind was with us and we flew along at 7 knots anchoring in daylight and in time for sundowners but we decided on tea for a change!

Friday 8th June.
Went ashore on Mayreaux climbed the hill to see the views wonderful! Had a lime drink for the downhill walk back to the shore where we had a welcome swim.

 Back aboard we had lunch and siesta, then Malcolm went snorkeling.  Late afternoon ’Rocking Horse’ with Martin & Marylin came to anchor near by.   Later we went to them for sundowners and a general catch –up on their exploits.  They told us of ’Folly’s troubles with the coastguard off Cuba which sounded worse than ours with the buoys!
Saturday 9th June.
Departed Mayreaux for Union Island just a short sail, checked out for tomorrows sail to Trinidad, bought a few salad items at the colourful market and had a Rum & Raisin ice cream. Later we decided to go ashore for a BBQ with a family of British charterers.
Sunday 10th set sail for Trinidad and had pleasant winds for most of the time.  Short showers kept us cool and began the cleaning process of all the salt engrained in the topsides.  Arrived Trinidad in time for coffee.

Monday 28 May 2012

Piano likes the Boys!


Second try.
   Up early the next day we decide to begin the passage –but the other way around the Island.  This means further to sail into the wind but sooner into deep water.  All goes well apart from the fact that I don’t feel so good.  In fact I haven’t felt this bad since we were crossing Biscay.  No sickness though so I stay below.  The consequence is that Malcolm has to be on deck the whole night.  He manages to make lunch , tea and dinner and has a few hours sleep when I surface the next morning.  We arrive in Anguilla later on that day.
  Sunday  (20th May) we go ashore to check in and just as we are deciding where to potter round a car pulls up and the lady offers us a lift to The Valley.  She has only been here 2 weeks and knows very little about the island.  She and her family have moved from St Lucia.  We have a look around then ask in the tourist Office for a map.  The very helpful assistant shows us the points of interest and we decide to walk back along the tourist trail stopping for lunch at a beach restaurant.  Rather sumptuous food and a cool beer later we continue .  The road continues along the beach and then up a track. At the top of which are a few noisy dogs. There owner comes out and asks if we need help? and would we like some cold water ? And then asks us where we have come from etc etc .  Would we like her to get the car out to give us a lift back ? No No we say we can manage. We almost make it as far as the ice cream shop when she pulls over in her car and insists she take us part way.  How can we refuse ?? She drops us at the top of the hill so we only have a short walk around the salt pond and back to Crescendo.
Monday to Thursday were spent recovering from the trip sorting the boat out and repairing the cutlery drawer –which left it’s housing during a vicious tack en passage.  Plus the weather has not been good for more upwind sailing.  Friday it looks much better so we up anchor and begin tacking around Anguilla. How we managed it I don’t know but we picked up a lobster pot! Absolute panic ensued, and the air was blue! But we took down the sails and fortunately had enough rudder control to motor back to Crocus Bay (where we had that lovely lunch the other day) where we could anchor in 4m of water and have a look for ourselves. The journey back involved towing at least 20m of line at the end of which was a lobster pot.   When Malcolm had donned his underwater gear he went to have a look.  The thin rope had managed to wind itself around the rudder ( ? I hear you say I’ve heard about this….) no! here is ANOTHER picture which Malcolm has taken underwater.
One of e floats and the line leading to the pot (off to left)


Underwater he thinks he can get rid of it with a knife if he wears the dive gear.  All this takes rather a long time but of course he is pleased that we have sorted the problem out for ourselves!  We shorten the line on the lobster pot and coil the extra line so that no one else will tag it.  I fully expect the local fishermen to find it tomorrow—by which time we will be long gone. After tea we continue again choosing the other end of the Island which takes us quickly into deep water where there is little chance of more fishing pots.  My eyes are glued to the sea while we are in shallow water.  Then I have a short sleep before my watch from 10-0200.  The rest of the trip was uneventful.
  We arrived at Jolly Harbour, Antigua around 14.00 hrs the next day.  After checking in we moved around the headland to anchor in an empty Five Island Bay and spend the evening listening to Steel Pan music  coming from the Resort ashore.
Sunday was another day sail around to Falmouth Harbour.
Monday coffee & lunch ashore visiting Nelson's Dockyard, sundowners aboard an American charter Cat Ciao Italia.  What a pleasant evening, just two games of Mexican train to finish.


Saturday 19 May 2012

OOOPS! Catastrophy aboard 'PIANO' Friday 12th May


Monday 14th May
 Left Cooper Island for Virgin Gorda. All sail and fair winds we made good time. Just a few high lights in passing.  First three islands called the Dogs ( West, Great and George) On George Dog there is a smaller islet called Cockroach Isle which we did not stop at—even though there are no cockroaches living there!  Next came Fallen Jerusalem named because it looks like a bombed city.  This due to the many boulders strewn around.  These are oversized volcanic boulders which were scattered around like rubble during volcanic activity in the past but each weighing hundreds of tonnes.  Finally we reach Virgin Gorda (the Fat Virgin) and pick up a red ball for lunch.  While I prepared it Malcolm snorkelled.  We then sailed to Spanish Town and stayed overnight in St Thomas Bay so that we could replenish the salad stuff, which seems to disappear by magic.  We had lunch the following day at the Barth & Turtle which had free wi-fi. The Pizza was great but the wi-fi was down.  Malcolm walked to the ruins of an old Copper Mine and did a hiking trail through some of those large boulders.  We sailed past Savannah Bay, Little Dix Bay and into Gorda Sound, Leverick Bay where we picked up a ball for the night.  It rained most of the time and the wind was strong so I made use of the water by doing 2 loads of washing and also made a fruit cake while the generator was on.  We took on some free water and ice at Leverick Marina (it’s included in the fee for the mooring ball) then moved to anchor nearer Prickly Bay ready for sailing off. Strong winds from the SE and more rain gave us another day here.—but hey the water is a good colour blue and there are turtles around so I’m not complaining! 
Tuesday to Thursday shopping and preparation for upwind sailing to Anguilla the first stop on our way South to Trinidad for the Hurricane Season.
Not such an early start as we would have hoped since the New offices were being opened when Malcolm went ashore to check out.  Instead of 20 minutes he was 2 hours at a civic ceremony with the President of the BVIs and politicians etc.  AND he got his picture taken for the newspaper as he was the first person to be checked out !  so a quick lunch and off we go, brilliant sailing and I saw the sand Island with 2 fake palm trees in azure water just off Neckar Island!  Now read on for the excitement and trauma which followed.....
Well you will be the first to hear of the great accident we had with 'Piano' yesterday.  There we were happily sailing along being photographed by a girl in a rib. Imagine the scene 20-25knot winds quite a bit of swell and her boat was almost flying as she tried to keep up with us.  So here we are coming up for the next tack (change of direction)  and I notice a yellow buoy and say "are you going to tack on top of it ????"  The answer being NO Malcolm then tries to ignore the photographer (who would also be underneath us ) and we do the tack.....the photographer sees the rocks (which the yellow buoy is marking) and scidaddles....
Here's a picture taken last year of the rudder.

  Meanwhile we end up with the line from the buoy jammed around our rudder (and it is soo strong so it doesn't break) so  we become anchored to it  with the added complication that it no longer moves, -so no steering........  OK now the waves are slamming the back of the boat and the cockpit is awash.  It is really uncomfortable.  We secure the buoy to our bow in case we come free and drift towards the rocks.  Then  we get the sails down and try using the bowthruster to turn us . No joy eeek OK we call the coastguard for help this takes a further 20 minutes for all the red tape but we feel happy that help will come.  
Then a motorboat comes out from 'Bitter End Yacht Club' together with a diver. They offer to have a look and see if they can help us.  We say YES PLEASE!  Shaun the diver kits up and jumps in to have a look and Samson holds off to wait.  Soon Shaun is up and tells us the rope is wedged just where the rudder hinges.  He asks for a rope to tie us to the mooring then gets to work cutting us free ..  As soon as we are free we come round head to wind and the slamming of the waves is more gentle, he then spends half an hour removing the jammed rope.  Meanwhile the coastguard has arranged for someone to come out from Neckar Island (Richard Bransons place) so we tell him we are free but still no steering.  After alot of work the rope is free and we manage to get the wheel to turn.  This is enough to get us to a marina where we can see what the damage is.  We motor to the Bitter end Yacht Club and take a buoy for the night. Pay the Government $500 to replace the yellow buoy and ask how much for the assistance given by Shaun and Samson.  NO CHARGE they say but if you want to tip them feel free.
Here are the TREMENDOUSLY helpful guys  'PIANO' and crew say THANK-YOU VERY MUCH XXX
Shaun & Samson, The Bitter End Yacht Club.


We are now back at Spanish Harbour Marina where Malcolm has checked the steering ( with the dive gear on) and can find nothing visibly wrong.  It is more difficult to turn the wheel to port but not so bad. so we are going to set off again tomorrow morning Sunday and see how we get on. Hopefully more Pics on Picasa.

Wednesday 16 May 2012

Fun in the British Virgin Islands



Thursday 10th, May  Anchored in Great Harbour, Joss Van Dyke. and Malcolm went ashore to sign in. We then both went ashore to talk to the dive shop and book a refresher dive for 3 that afternoon.  Dive instructor , Martin was an ex pat who had worked in a variety of brilliant place, Thailand, Shar-mel-sheik, Mediterranean, New Zealand to name a few.  We had his undivided attention but we put him to the test with Malcolm’s bouyancy (he now needs only 2 Kg! Plus of course the BCD which we didn’t realise was faulty. Never the less we had our first dive in 2 years and were suitably chastened.  Martin said we both needed work on our bouyancy skills.
Back ashore with a ‘Painkiller’ cocktail we entertained a group of American Cruisers who were chartering a Cat.  They were water challenged and envious that we had 900 gallons aboard.  They also questioned us on our travels and lifestyle. Below is Foxy's Bar with a ceiling covered with boat/business cards.
I repaired Malcolm's BCD which had lost a clip to secure the chest. Also repaired the beach bag which had split yesterday with the weight of all the dive gear, both were sewing machine jobbies and the sewing machine was in a good mood.
Foxy's Bar

Friday 11th,  We moved to Norman Island, having reefed for the 20 kt wind we flew! Our nearest competition was overpowered and even after reefing couldn’t point as near to the wind as we could. On arrival at the anchorage (which caters for 120 charterers) We had dinner The Pirates Restaurant. After watching a group of cruisers playing sticks they gave us a welcome tow back to ‘Piano’.
  It was a perfect 5m anchorage so next morning we decided to use our newly filled bottles to practice finning and buoyancy control.  This in shallow water. While taking our time to think about how to get back aboard when we had finished we noticed that Malcolm’s BCD had inflated itself! Oh yes (we remembered) John had said that the inflation valve may need attention back in Barbados but it hasn’t seen daylight for 2 years .  OK we decide to both use my BCD.  I go first doing a nice step off the boat with little apprehension, give the OK signal then get to work, sorted.
  On my return we find that ’Piano’ has sauntered round to watch, meaning her aft end is now only feet from the shore. Pulling in the anchor doesn't do much so we re-anchor further out, ’Crescendo’ on the other hand different ideas- her anchor still being down she made a brave effort to hold us there but the big girl won. Of course, Malcolm at last went for his practice and was well pleased with himself, good buoyancy control, no mask problems AND he saw more fish than I.  After coffee we sailed to Peter Island,  had lunch in Key Bay then off to anchor overnight in  White Bay.  The tidal scouring of the beach meant that we were dancing at the end of our anchor chain so ‘Crescendo’ was commissioned to stand guard to be sure we didn’t touch the boat next door.

Sunday 13th May
  Next morning we up anchor and motored to Carrot Bay for snorkelling, but wind & swell meant that it was far too exposed so we continued to “Dead Man’s Island” - this all by 09.30 You only get 90 minutes on a ball. I’m aboard so I can catch up on polishing the woodwork. I doubt my blister will allow me to enjoy any more water work this season.  Malcolm saw many reef fish and was happy to leave this rolly buoy under sail for  Salt Island.  So named since it used to produce salt!  The center if the island is one huge salt pan.  The lease for the island is still a bag of salt delivered to the British Crown.  Malcolm snorkelled the Wreck of the ‘M/V Rhone’ a mail ship which was used as a location for Peter Benchley’s film ‘The Deep’.  Once again we sailed off the ball this time to Cooper’s Island where we will have lunch and overnight stay.


Thursday 10 May 2012

Cruising the BVI's 10th May 2012




Looking at the ships log I see that Monkey Island is really called Cayo Santiago so that puts the record straight! After weighing the anchor we set sail for Marina del Rey. Puerto Rico.
This is HUGE, fairly new Marina and we are on the farthest corner.  Being closely associated with the Americans the answer is a golf buggy to transport you to and from the shore. The marina staff are very courteous , helpful and friendly and give us well needed advice as to book swaps (in the laundry), supplies– in the deli and boat stuff in the chandlery.
  Malcolm did manage to service the water pump on the Westerbeake but has not found the leak in the cooling system.  We manage to track down an engineer who spends two days checking, testing and scratching his head but no joy so he doesn’t charge us !  I promised to send an email when we rectified the problem as he couldn’t think where the problem could be.
28th April we sail back to Dewey, Culebra, did I say this is the quietist anchorage in the Caribbean ? Overnight the wind picked up to 25 knots, we were snug and held well in clean sand.
 1st May headed back to Charlotte Amelie, St Thomas, where there was only one cruise boat in.  It was a dull day so we went by bus to K Mart and did some shopping.  I finally found the right sized containers for the oven dishes! Julian will be pleased when I tell him.


3rd May Sailed for Great Lamsure Bay, St John but the weather was pooh! Rain, wind against us, (thunder over St Thomas!) and finally becalmed.  So a good job that it was only a short sail (4 hours) with a tasty lunch on arrival.
We had the bay to ourselves the first night.
Very good snorkelling here with Turtles, Barracuda, squid and Tarpon to name only a few species.  Malcolm also hiked two of the trails right to the top of a mountain close by.  Pictures on Picasa.
5th May motored round to (the next) Saltpond Bay, St John.  I should say that all these little Bays are in the National Marine Park so I’m getting quite good at picking up a mooring! More snorkelling here by far the best yet. Plus it’s no wonder the turtles like the area, yes you guessed , it is so calm you can see the baby Jelly fish pulsing along. They don’t seem to sting here which is a bonus!
6th May, Motored & Sailed through intermittent rain and light wind to Francis Bay, probably named by Sir Francis Drake since ’Francis Drake Passage is close by.
7th (Monday) went ashore at the Campground resort– which isn’t tents but chalets with all mod cons) then walked to the old sugar mill.  Sad to say it rained quite heavily but at least I had worn shoes instead of flip flops so easy walking!.  It was only about 2 miles up and down but not having walked for so long I soon had blisters.  A quick 20 minute walk turned into a 4 hour hike. After a coffee and lunch (the largest avocado I have seen) we toured the inlet/Bay and did a snorkel trail. I swear the same fish followed us around it was so tame.  No doubt it was expecting food?  Malcolm snapped his goggle band so next stop will be a dive shop for new goggles and who knows maybe I’ll get a dive in too!

Straight from the press : yes we did a re-orientation dive yesterday and really enjoyed it (well I did) of course I'm rusty but all I need to do is get plenty more practice and wow what a place to do it!

Tuesday 24 April 2012

Ponce, Puerto Rico


Thursday we went to Ponce a local smallish town named after Leon de Ponce a Spaniard and full of history. We took a coach tour around the highlights and then walked the old streets for more delights. Amongst which were a row of Fireman's cottages donated to the brave firemen who saved the town in some horrendous fire. The tradition is that each year more are built and given to the force who then choose by lottery who is to have them.  They then have a lease for life and are passed down through the generations. Incidentally the main Fire Station is also a landmark since a new one has been built out of town.
   Those of you who remember the Cornish Painted Cows will recognise the idea with these Lions. The town was hosting an Island wide student competition (Art, Sport, Fashion et al.) and instant marquees were being erected for food and drink which would be available in the evening together with a BIG party.
 Serralles Castle

 We managed to escape before the town center was closed to traffic and visited the Serralles Castle and grounds, the Japanese Gardens and the new lighthouse, finally we stopped at the waterfront to watch the sunset. Along the ‘La Guanchia board walk’ there was a small bay with huge Tarpon in the water. As we watched them flocks of Pelicans flew in—totally oblivious to us viewing.
  The rest of the week was mostly boat/house work but we did get along to the Friday evening BBQ again and made a few more friends in the process.  Sunday we had sundowners aboard ‘Flawless ‘D’ with Kat & Jim whom we had last seen in Trinidad.
  Monday we were up early had a brilliant sail to Monkey Island where we anchored in 3m of water.  First sight was of a mammoth Turtle and two Dolphins.  This shortly followed by Rhesus monkeys which have their home on the island.  The signs say no feeding the Monkeys and no landing on the Island either.  Sundowners time was spent watching closely for any monkey business and the sea birds roosting.  Bliss.

Puerto Rico

A Baby Pelican!

Monday we waved goodbye & Fair Winds to Melvin and her crew.
Wednesday we hired a car from Sydney again and drove up into the mountains.  The roads were hairpin bends with large lorries coming from the other direction on our side of the road.  Our first stop was at a food stand for brunch then onto the Caguana Indian Ceremonial grounds.

Ancient Petroglyphs
  We were told about the ancient ball or ‘Batey’ parks by the on site historian. Around the ballparks there were many stones with petroglyphs painted on them This really ought to be a WH Site !

 Next stop some equally—if even older – Rio Camay limestone cave Park at the top of a mountain range.  These felt far older than any which we have visited in South Africa (Cango) or New Zealand (Waitimo).


On the trip home we detoured to visit ’Cascada Les Gerzas’ some waterfalls and pools.  Finally back to the anchorage for a welcome meal at the marina restaurant.

Friday 20 April 2012

Isla de Culebrita






 Just a short sail but plagued with many motor-launches all going the same way!  Fortunately we picked up a buoy since the small craft had to throw an anchor ashore—they had no tender. ’Melvin’ arrived later and we all enjoyed crystal clear azure waters a cooling breeze and pleasant company.  Malcolm had to hike up the hill to the old lighthouse.  It was built in 1880 (so who did the census?) Anyway it is a ruin and a new one has been built. He also rowed across Tortuga beach to the Jacuzzis, an area of boulder filled pools which are frequently filled with water which percolates through from the northeast coast.
  From here we sailed to Isla Vieques just 25 Km away.  We first looked at Puerto Mosquito but since it was shallow and unprotected turned back for Peurto Ferrol.  It too was shallow but we safely anchored in 3m of water which was strongly bio-luminescent after dark. The more you moved about the great the disturbance and light show.  Sorry no pictures it just didn’t show up.
   Next day was an even shorter sail after we went slightly aground while trying to navigate out of the shallow bay. Just 2 miles to Ensenada Sun Bay where we picked up a buoy, had a quick swim to cool off , lunch, then into town for fresh vegetables etc.
  The Spanish invaders called Vieques and her smaller islands the Useless Islands and the pirates/British called it ‘Crab Island' due to the many crabs.  Once the Spanish arrived they conquered and enslaved the local Tainos , the Island then being taken into Puerto Rico.    Further landings were made by the English, French and Dutch but all were seen off by the Puerto Rican Spaniards. The annexation occurred in 1854 when Governor Don Teofilo Jaime LeGuillo began to build a fort.  The Island then saw a boost to industry as sugar mills were set up and run by black slaves.
  1898 the United States arrived in the form of the gunboat ‘Yale’.  The Fort commander told Lt Cont that he must fire a cannon before surrendering.  ‘41 the US Navy arrived and purchased 2/3 of the Island to use for ordinance.  This meant plenty of jobs in construction and people travelled from all the neighbouring islands to work.  Of course when the boom had finished the locals had no more work so were relocated to San Croix.  Fortunately for us the Americans have recently given up using their patch for bombardment although there are signs for divers to beware of unexploded bombs!  Unemployment is still high and tourism is in its infancy, this is all good for us blue-water sailors who can enjoy a relatively unspoilt Island.  We anchored at Esmerelda the small town on the West Coast.
 The pilot book said that a ‘Publico’/Taxi would cost $2 one way,  the guy we asked as to where the bus stop was said it would cost $3 his friends waved down another driver who was taking a couple to the ferry and he charged us $5 each on the outward journey and $6 on the return because he only had the pair of us aboard! 
   While in Isobel Seconda we walked to the light-house after a great breakfast on the way.  Then to the Fort/Museum which seems only to have ever been a jail for slaves and miscreants.  Besides some superb photography and art work it also showed artefacts from Archaeological digs.   On our way out we met the 3 chaps we had seen yesterday sailing into Sun Bay on a days cruise, how amazing! I promised to send them the snap I had taken of them all sailing.  After tea we sailed for Green Beach –just a few miles further on since it was ‘round the corner’ and less bumpy.  I made Beef Pepperpot and we watched the bioluminescence by candle-light  The alaarm was set for early next morning when we sailed off the anchorage for Boca del Infierno just 33 Km nearer to our destination. 

No sooner had we anchored at Cayos de Caribes when ‘Loonsong’ called us up and told us of a BBQ tomorrow evening.  The night was so peaceful, hardly a movement aboard ‘Piano’ refreshed we sailed the last 3 Km for Salinas.  This was all inside the reef which lays around the coast, so it was a speedy broad reach most of the way only stopping to stow the sails and motor into the bay.

Salinas—Puerto Rico 13th April 2012 
  
Julie & Malcolm
On arrival we motored to find ‘Melvin’ and not to be disappointed there was Julie on deck waving as though we hadn’t seen them! She came across and told us that we needed to order food for the BBQ so we dropped everything and went ashore to do so—and to check into the new customs area.  Although not staying at the marina the receptionist was very helpful and friendly.  The BBQ was awesome, 2 huge pork ribs, 2 pieces of chicken and sausage plus chips! (with a chocolate strawberry for afters)  We caught up with the missed days on ‘Melvin’ they had stopped to anchor at Monkey Island and had already found the free wi-fi ashore.
  Over coffee and cake we tried to do emails but it started to rain which put paid to that as the awning leaked too badly. The roads were awash when we walked back.  During the afternoon we played Mexican Train Dominoes.  Oh I forgot to say that the coolant has been disappearing from the reservoir for the generator and Malcolm has been trying to locate the leak.  He hasn’t found it yet but has found a leak in the salt water pump so it looks like a marina stop soon.

On Sunday we shared a car with ’Melvin’ and drove to San Juan for a sight-seeing day. From Salinas we travelled on the 52 and continued as far as the old town. We began along a board walk towards the Fort of San Felipe del Morro when we arrived at the town gate there was a notice to say the board walk was under refurbishment until later this year.  Not to be thwarted we continued through city across the green park areas before the Fort. There were many families flying kites in the brisk wind.  San Felipe del Morro is run by the Parks department so has an interpretive centre and re-enactments to see which explain the history of the fort.  We were fortunate enough to see demonstrations of a cannon and an old rifle being fired. After a short stop for light refreshments we sauntered to San Cristobel another more recent addition which is even more secure between the fortifications the Island has been safe from all invaders , I mean, Francis Drake, Abercromby, various Dutch and French soldiers until the Americans invaded c 1898. We continued back to the car via some delightful ‘Calla’s interspersed with ‘Plaza’s and fountains.  So tempting we stopped again for coffee and more cakes!
 See Picasa for snaps. Unfortunately, this late afternoon stop meant that we caught the evening traffic in town and it took over an hour to leave the car park !! We came to the conclusion that it is a National pastime to promenade on a Sunday evening. This meant that our planned drive back on the more scenic route had to be abandoned.

Saturday 14 April 2012

Culebra


The sail to Culebra

  We set full sail for Culebra and the winds held good for the first half of the trip dying to nothing as we approached the harbour at Ensenda Honda.  Just off the entrance there is a long reef which we book-marked for snorkelling later.  We anchored near the main town and then had tea and cake.
  Next morning we went ashore to check in at the airport.  (quite a walk)  We had a bit of a wait as there was a plane due in.  There were the usual forms to fill in including one for food.  I established that they didn’t want the contents of the freezer nor any canned goods just fresh food, wine and tobacco. They were by far the friendliest customs guys, giving us advice on the best place to eat and the quietist beaches. It only costs a few dollars to take a ferry to Puerto Rico by ferry—as cheap as a bus ride to the tourist beach. They also gave us a cruising permit for the whole of the U.S.A. ! This means that all we need do for other US ports is phone and tell them our cruising number and that we have arrived—so no need to fill out more forms. Great eh…
  Back aboard ‘Piano’ for coffee and lunch before heading off to the reef for the afternoons entertainment.  We picked a buoy and jumped in.  The first thing I saw was a Ray chilling out on the sea-floor! So I had to be quick with the camera to get the shot before it swam away.  Next a conch shell started moving and on further observation I saw it was quite a big  hermit crab.  Plenty of other shoals of brightly coloured fish so we were worn out by the time we got back to ’Piano’ for sundowners and dinner.
  The following day we snorkelled on the other side of the island at three different locations each with it’s own microcosm of aquatic life.
  ‘Melvin’ arrived later on with a bottle and bites so we caught up on their sail over and arranged to join them for a hike to the beach the following day.  Flamenco Beach is about 3 miles from the anchorage so we had a decent walk there.  Most of the holiday makers had used the bus.  The beach was busy but not too overcrowded. There was plenty of surf and quite a strong current but it was great fun.
  The Island is inhabited by about 2,000 people but this is greatly topped by the many daytime visitors by small plane and the ferry from Puerto Rico.  The quaint town is set up fro all types of sailing vessel as we soon found out.  It was Easter and the whole country came out in anything that floated to visit a beach and chill out.  Internet was excellent this being a small island it is covered by the town of Dewey (some of the older inhabitants still call it Pueblo Viejo.) After stocking up with what little groceries were available we sailed to Isla de Culebrita for the holiday.

Thursday 5 April 2012

St Thomas—Charlotte Amelie


   On the second day at Buck Reef Island our friends Julie Terry & Owen called round to say hi and ended up staying to dinner. We said cheers to them at coffee the next day then left Christmas Cove and sailed to Charlotte Amelie, St Thomas, very windy on arrival 7 knots. Wind increased at sundown.  The anchor held well and we can understand why Edward Teach (Blackbeard) considered this a safe harbour.  It is almost totally enclosed!
  After the formalities we had a sightseeing tour.  This involved looking at the various cruise liner shops selling duty free goods and going up 99 steps to Blackbeards tower.
On the way up we had a tour around the amber museum (See snaps on Picasa) and this dinosaur growled as we went past!

and various residences which have been preserved in tact.  Had we known it there were 3 pools to swim in we'd have taken our cozzies!.  At the top a restaurant and a rum distillery, very near the final climb to the top of the tower.
On the way we passed bronze statues for most of the notorious pirates
How about this one for a Johnny Depp look alike...


  We continued—the next day after saying hello to ’Mervyn’ again and being invited round to dinner with them this time.– to look around the French quarter.
  We also caught up with 'Blackthorn Lady'  (Ian & Jacqui) and ended up being shown the best place for free wi fi , which was a bar called the 'Doghouse'
  Since there was little in the way of wind we all decided to stay on for the Sunday and have a game of Mexican Dominoes aboard Mervyn it lasted 5 hours including a short stop for lunch.  We ajourned for sundowners aboard 'Piano' and I rustled up some spag bog for supper.
  Monday after a quick shop we set off for Culebra but that's for the next installment...


Friday 23 March 2012

Saturday 17th. St Patrick's Day.


  Ashore quite early since we could hear the drums at 8.30!  The town was packed by 9 o’clock with visitors plus ‘sailors’ from the Cruise liner Seabourn Spirit.  Around 20 floats were displayed around the one-way system and all traffic was held up.  Plenty of noise green costumes, Heineken and frolics.  There was one pretty authentic ‘Irish’ float too.  We ate a tasty bowl of Irish Stew, for lunch, at Angry Nates, on the waterfront . Then went around Eastern end of the Island to Udall Point stopping at various viewpoints over azure blue waters.  The beaches I have to say were nothing special but the were sparsely used and most had a beach bar.
Sunday more touring, this time the Eastern end from the Salt River Ecological Park where we looked at the beach of C. Columbus second landing.  Here we met a Texan who was over to work on the closing of the oil refinery and had coffee at the Buccaneer bar in the Salt River Marina compound.  We then travelled to Cane Bay for lunch and it was here that Malcolm saw 3 squid while snorkelling, we narrowly avoided some rain.  We also watched a guy snorkelling while giving a black Labrador a piggy back.  Final destination we ended up at Sandy Point National Wildlife Refuge.  Here we did some more snorkelling and saw a flatfish and many other tropical fish in a new area of growing coral.
  Monday into town for shopping and petrol before we took the car back.  Stopping briefly to tell the Parks Department we intended to stay the night at Buck Island Reef. Coffee finished we motored to Buck Reef National Park and anchored.  After lunch and some adjustment in anchoring we then had the afternoon on the Underwater snorkelling trail where we saw schools of Parrot fish, a Trumpet fish and a Barracuda, eek!

San Croix March 15th ish

  Yes it was a good sail!
   We left around 4 (T time) and had Chilli for dinner a short nap for me until 10 pm when I took over the watch ‘til two in the morning.  Malcolm did his stint from 2-7.30 am then had a rest for 3 hours again.   We arrived at St Croix, Red Hook,  marina around 4 where we had a busy time coming in because it had blown up to 25 knots of wind and far too many pilot marks to drive through, Some places very shallow! Still I was cautious driving and managed to let Malcolm berth without incident.  The most expensive marina yet ! With cold showers too !  Next day a walk into town where we found out how to get an anchoring permit and dives planned.  Then we did the historic town trail.  We arrived back at the marina supermarket and paid $4 for 3 tomatoes (oh for the days when they were free at Darby Green)  Next moved ‘Piano’ out into the Gallows Harbour where it was less bumpy and cheaper.
  14th March  took a public transport bus to Freidrichstat.  Had coffee, looked around, did emails at the library while it rained, and then looked at the Museum which had exhibitions on slavery, sculpture (a local guy ‘Edney Freedom) and Island history.
Thursday we did the town trail, which began at the Old Scale House on the harbour front.  At one end of the building is the scale which was used to weigh a hogshead of sugar or Rum— the other end was the counting house  or recording room, this is now a gift shop with a very helpful salesperson who is also a local and who knows about the bus service and where to find fresh bread.  Nearby is the old Customs House which has a sweeping staircase and should house the National Park Services Office but it was being refurbished and we found the said office across the street in the onetime Danish West India & Guinea Company Warehouse.  This is where slave auctions were held up until the emancipation around 1848.  Next came the Steeple building (formerly the Lutheran Church which now holds a display of Religious documents.
  We then found the large area for Market—held on Saturdays together with the town well.  Quite nearby but the devil to pinpoint was a tiny Apothecary's shop. Just as it used to be together with a recorded history to explain its history.
  Friday we picked up a car and did the Northern half of the Island, including St Georges Botanical Gardens and village, with its fine Orchid display and various sugar mill ruins.  The scenic route around to Creque Dam and waterfall.
Enough for now tomorrow St Patricks Day !