Wednesday 20 April 2011

April before Easter!

 (Grand Piton is the Farthest one)
Monday, we sailed back to St Lucia from Martinique, a fast run with full sun yippee this is the life!

Tuesday the fun begins, we first ask for Vincent to come around again to give advice, and searched for Prudent the gas fitter, then set off to find a Yamaha mechanic or a main dealer for a new propeller for Crescendo.
  Wednesday Prudent says he will be here tomorrow, and arrives the next day to tell us what we need—he’ll be back later—which ends up being Thursday and a final check on Friday.
Meanwhile Vincent gives good advice about the 80ah charger which Malcolm then rewires only to find that there must have been a power surge which blows a vital component, now we have to wait again either for a repair (unlikely) or a new charger.  On the bright side the new prop has been fitted and tightened with a torque wrench loaned by Les the guy who does the net in the mornings. 
  Having ordered a new 80ah charger which should be here by next week we decide to sail the Eastern coast of St Lucia stopping at anchorages along the way.  Since the rain is getting to us we begin at the farthest end at Vieux Fort.  The days sail was mixed bur quite slow.  Rain gear came out for the helm once or twice and the Iron Horse was given some exercise on the home stretch. By the time we had eaten on Monday evening we were tired and ready for bed.  The rain and the anchor alarum awakened Malcolm so he had a little lie in on Tuesday morning.  More rain that day gave us no incentive to go ashore so we decided to re-grout the bathroom and toilet.
  The day brightened up after lunch so we put some more air into Crescendo and went ashore. 
  During World War II the low lying land at the end of the Island created the ideal location for an American military airport.  This has now been updated and has become the International Airport. The town itself is well off the tourist tracks and so not as well off as Castries.  Having said that it contained all the regular shops and services.  We toured the town and then headed for the ‘Reef’ on Anse de Sables for a Piton or two.  If only the sun had been out! This is the biggest and most undeveloped beach on the Island!  The only concession to sport is a small Kite ‘n surf Centre which also sells the beers.  While we checked emails and watched a Kite-surfer race across to Maria Island and back a few dozen times.  I hope we get a chance to come again next year if the weather is better since this is a nature reserve and has a coral reef around it which is apparently great for snorkelling.
  We were going to set off for Soufrière on Wednesday morning but as it was raining again decided to see what tomorrow is like.
 Thursday, dry overnight but it started raining as we were about to leave.  Not for long though while I made bread it cleared up and we arrived in sunshine again. A small boat came out and told us he would help with picking up a mooring.  As Malcolm was making preparations we sailed straight into the most enormous piece of rope (probably a mooring line from a liner!) Fortunately another 'helper' boat came past and borrowed our snorkels to remove it from the propeller. (40 C$) Soon after the first boat came back for mooring (40C$) next the boat for getting produce  - 2 Tuna steaks and take away the rubbish (45C$) and the fruit & veg vendor (5C$) After lunch and a rest the Reserve warden came by for our mooring fee (54C/1 night or 104C$ for a week).  Seems quite expensive here.
  Malcolm went snorkelling to check the prop and see the wildlife and came back stung by tiny jellyfish—but he said it wasn’t as bad as mosquitoes!
  First trip ashore and we have a pleasant ‘jetty master’ take our lines. He works for Jouloise Plantation Hotel. Making sure that all along the beach runs smoothly.  We ask his advice about seeing the local sights and then have coffee to chew it over. We decide to go for a taxi ride to the Sulphur Springs/drive in volcano and waterfalls.  We are told by the guide that the whole of Soufrière is in the Caldera! Which even runs out under the sea.  This may account for the peculiar eddys which we have seen while sailing by.

Soufrière, (means “Sulphur in the air”) and not only thus but Hydrogen Sulphide too. Our Guide Suzette told us about the geology and morphology of the island and was very knowledgeable on plants too. She told us that this was part of the ‘Drive in Volcano’.  Personally I thought the Sulphur springs were not as impressive as Yellowstone or New Zealand.  Ed our driver then took us to a restaurant in Soufrière where we all had lunch.
 We next visited Piton Waterfall and hot springs. Where I decided to sample the spa facilities.  Luckily I had my bathing cossy with me (unlike Malcolm who took the pictures!) The rest of the afternoon we chilled out on the beach watching as cruise liner tourists got stung by the pesky jelly-fish.
  Sunday Malcolm hiked Grand Piton with his guide Teddy. He started at 6.30 and was back for lunch.
Monday began with an early morning snorkelling session wow what a wonderful assortment of fish and coral fans! Next a move of residence to Soufrière.  Here we were welcomed by Black headed gulls screeching.  We sorted the laptop and rucksacks plus empty petrol can and went into town.  First stop a wi-fi restaurant and yes the new battery charger has arrived at customs. A stroll through Soufrière which used to be St Lucias’ first town and was established by the French in 1746.  It has colonial style architecture and is overshadowed by the majestic Piton Mountains. We were stopped twice by guys wanting to show us around the Island but in both cases we told them all that we had seen so far.  The only thing left was Soufrière itself. We were recommended :  Diamond Falls Botanical Gardens, a 20 minute walk from the town center.  This was the highlight of the town.   Such a range of plants and trees. Slightly further on was Diamond Falls equally spectacular see Picasa. No swimming allowed though.  Next household chores shopping and the gas station then back to ‘Piano’ and a restful afternoon listening to the gulls again.
Tuesday a quick sail back to ‘Rodney Bay Marina’.

Monday 4 April 2011

Martinique the last of March

Thursday, another tour this time the North East corner, via St Joseph, -a tiny hamlet in the heart of the mountains. Gros Morne—an agricultural area which also makes produce from its yields like rum, fruit juice and sweets.  St Marie  - steeped in Martinique's culture where we found more caterpillars feeding on Allamander leaves.  We ate Croissants here looking out over a pleasant sea view.  Then we continued on through Le Marigot,- a charming flower filled village with an amphitheatre facing the Atlantic Ocean. Le Lorraine— The Kingdom of the banana where they also brew beer.  Basse Pointe,- also noted for Bananas and pineapples. Macouba,- another distillery and a 17th century Church. Finally, Grand Rivière—at the Northern tip of the island and where the road ends.  During our picnic the local catch was being filleted and a dozen pelicans were on patrol nearby.  Our afternoon walk took us along one of the coastal paths towards Mont Pelée.  It may once have been a real road but is both steep and in bad repair but makes a brilliant hiking trail.  30 minutes higher with nice views Malcolm carried on upwards while I chilled out (as usual)
We then started the drive home.  Once getting as far as Le Morne Rouge we decided to take the over-land route through the mountains.  We were rewarded by some tremendous views.
 That just left the rush hour in Fort de France again andsome final shopping before we got home.
  Friday was spent defrosting the freezer again which appears to be only working on one side.  Rather a lot had to be cooked since it had defrosted –such a shame that Caroline and Jack aren’t here to help eat it all!
  Saturday, we tool the bus to the Museum de La Pagerie this being the maiden name of the Empress Josephine wife  of Napoleon Bonaparte.  She started out as an upper working class girl who married into the nobility about the time of the French Revolution.  She had two children (a boy and a girl) to her first husband, who lost his head to the guillotine.  She then came to the notice of a young Napoleon who then married her.  Unfortunately she could only give him daughters so he divorced her for another.  Meanwhile the Pagerie family fell on hard times (after a hurricane) and had to move from their house into the sugary refinery which they owned.  All that remains of the house is the foundations of the kitchen and the ruins of the sugar refinery.  After lunch back aboard we spent the afternoon on the beach.
   Sunday, We took the bus again round to Anse Diamant. The remains of an ancient volcano which earned its’ fame as a strategic stronghold.  The British first conquered it to place guns at its peak and from then on it was the fighting point for many years.  It faces on of the largest beaches in Martinique with coconut and sea grape trees for shade.  On the Southern coast it is open to the Atlantic channel and so has breakers most of the year but we weren’t here for the beach with only an hour and a half before the last bus back (Sunday timetable)  This was sufficient time to have a coffee and pastry. See the small town and a walk along the beach.  The bus ride out through stunning landscapes was well worth the €1.50 fare.

Monday, we sailed back to St Lucia, a fast and pleasant sail, now to see some more technicians...answer your emails and upload images to the Martinique folder and the St Lucia folder (this has taken 4 hours so I do hope you all enjoy it very few comments apart from those who have a Gmail addresses [thanks Robyn])