Wednesday 21 April 2010

Sevilla

Seville Cathedral, declared a World Heritage Site by the UNESCO. It was built on the location of the High Mosque of Seville, demolished in the 15th century, and for many centuries was the biggest religious monument in all of Christendom. It contains five aisles of Gothic style with a large transept, site of the Main Chapel, a construction which boasts a magnificent altarpiece and a Plateresque Grill. The Cathedral was designed by Alonso Martínez, Simón de Colonia and Juan Gil de Ontañón. The works were finished off in 1506, with a Plateresque Royal Chapel in the temple's sanctuary, later used as the place of burial of Fernando III el Santo and his son, Alfonso X el Sabio. The city's patron saint, Virgen de los Reyes, presides over the altar. The Cathedral also houses the Chapel of the Virgen de la Antigua, a construction of important Colombian influences, the Sepulchre of Christopher Columbus, a choir with spectacular Mudejar stalls and exuberant Baroque organ boxes.
The Cathedral Museum contains works by great painters. codexes and choir books, and ornaments and a sumptuous collection of gold work. Bordering the Cathedral are remnants of the old mosque, the Patio de Los Naranjos (Patio of the Orange Trees) and the
Giralda, the city's most prominent monument. Built on a foundation of Roman stones carried from Itálica, it was continued in brick by the Almohades, who decorated the façades with sebka work and poly-lobed horseshoe windows. The tower, a later Christian work, is crowned with a spectacular Renaissance bell shaft. We recommend climbing to the top to contemplate the splendid view of the city from the Giralda See image in Sevilla Folder

Indies Archives built in times of Felipe II, declared a World Heritage Site by the UNESCO. A Truly impressive building which began life as a trading centre then a tenement building and now the ‘National Archives’ which has allowed it to be opened to the visiting public. It had a display of ancient Pirates which although had no English translation was superb. With much original papers from the times (1500’s etc) on display together with artefacts from the same time frame.
See image in Sevilla Folder

Real Alcazar (one of the oldest royal residences in Europe), declared a World Heritage Site by the UNESCO. This same location has been occupied by a series of different buildings a Roman acropolis, a Paleochristian Basilica, different Visigothic buildings, a Moorish castle, and the first Moorish Fortress of the 9th century. Pedro I built the Mudejar palace, a mixture of Gothic elements with Mudejar plaster and offer work. Especially interesting are the Patio de la Montería (Hunting Patio), the Patio de las Doncellas (Maidens Patio), the Patio de las Muñecas (Dolls Patio) and the impressive Salón de los Embajadores (Ambassador's Hall), with its huge golden Cupola of the mid-15th century. Next to the Mudejar palace stands the Palace of Carlos V, adjacent to the Jardines del Alcazar of Moorish inspiration with Renaissance and Romantic elements.

As impressive was the Iglesia de El Salvador a Baroque Collegiate Church which, was built on the site of a Roman –Visigothic basilica dating from AD 711. Back into the peaceful streets of the Barrio Santa Cruz, an old Jewish neighbourhood. From this point, Vida street leads to the Alley del Agua (Water), bordering the walls of the Alcázar. A large number of typical popular buildings line this street, protected by iron gates which open onto patios profusely decorated with flowers. The street leads into the Square of Santa Cruz, presided over by the Cross of the Cerrajería (locksmith's), which connects the neighbourhood with the Murillo Gardens. Leaving this square along Santa Teresa street we arrive at the Convent of San José, a 17th century building. Continuing along the streets López de Rueda and Reinoso, we arrive in the Square of Los Venerables, and the Hospital de Los Venerables Sacerdotes, a large Baroque building founded in 1675 as an asylum for priests. It contains the frescoes painted by Valdés Leal and by his son.
The Hospital de los Venerables is now used for art exhibitions. Gloria street leads to the typical Square of Doña Elvira, and then to the Square of the Alianza, adjacent to the Alcázar walls. Further along, Gloria street connects with Mateos Gagos street, full of lively bars and taverns. Continuing along, Abades street which connects with Bamberg street, here are Roman columns the remains of a temple dedicated to Mercury, which gives the street the name of Mármoles (Marble).

The square of Santa María La Blanca contains the 18th century façade of the Palace of Altamira. To one side, the Church of Santa María La Blanca, was built over the remains of an old synagogue. The interior was redecorated in the 17th century with some of the most creative Baroque plaster work anywhere in Seville, the work of the Borja brothers. Archeros street leads to the Parish Church of San Bartolomé. Nearby, on Levíes street, stands the Palace of Mañara, thehome of Miguel de Mañara, model for Don Juan Tenorio, famous character of world
literature. It is an impressive Renaissance building with an interesting façade bearing fresco paintings which imitate brick surfaces.
Continuing on to the Plaza de las Mercedarias and then along to the Vidrio street, the visitor reaches the Parish Church of San Esteban, Mudejar building of the late 14th century with interesting, early 15th-century Gothic doorways.
This was enough for the day—needless to say we had dinner (Spanish Paella) before the bus trip home.
Day 2
The House of Pilatos
This was a pay to view site but well worth it. Interesting for its blend of Gothic, Mudejar, Italian Renaissance and classic elements. It is the seat of the present Duchess of Medina whatever and her living area is not on view. However, there were quite a few good paintings and the marketry, plaster work and tile work (bordering on mosaics) were all very impressive. We had a packed lunch in the cool shade of the gardens before hitting the streets again.
From the square of Pilatos we continued along Águilas street. On its left-hand side was the Convent of Santa María de Jesús . Mudejar style of the early 16th century. Further along Rodrigo Marín street, we skirted the side of the Church of San Ildefonso one of the few neoclassical constructions of Seville, built in the 18th-century with an interesting main façade and two towers. Next was a bus ride to the Feria!

Apart from Easter this is the other big event in Sevilla - the Feria de Abril (April Fair). It was created in the mid-19th century as an agricultural and cattle fair. Slowly it turned into a fair for the celebration of the Andalusian countryside within the city. For a couple of months Sevillians work to assemble an artificial city of canvass booths, lights and small lanterns. It covers an area comparable with Blackbush market (for those who know it) The celebration begins with a procession to the fair - ground. Everyone who still has a trap goes by 1,2,4 or even 5 horse– drawn trap, which has been cleaned and polished to within an inch of it’s life. The inhabitants of Sevilla then flock to the event. Men are dressed in short jackets, boots and chaps, the traditional Spanish riding gear—or otherwise smart black suits with those ‘panama’ styled hats and the women wearing colourful dresses with ruffles. For the next few days all who have been invited to an hospitality tent make their way (on foot) carrying bags of waterbottles. Of course the ladies have their highest stiletto shoes on and probably suffer since the party may go on until six the next morning! A board at the gate lists the names of families and where they are to be found. You can only join their tent if you are invited and then have to get past the bouncer at the entrance. Meanwhile the method of moving around from tent to tent is by carriage or shanks pony. More images on Picasa. And a footnote: it was 32º C and full sun the day we were there! We won’t mention the last train home—but suffice it to say we slept in the next day!