September-October 2015

Nereid's Rally

Last Year we heard of the great explorations during the Nereid's Rally to Guyana, French Guyana, and Dutch Guyana. This year we signed up and took part. The preliminary meeting took place at Sails Restaurant. As in previous years David Matelicani gave the introductions, namely of Kit and Gem from Hurakabra, Cathy Hughes (now Minister for tourism in Guyana,) and members of the contingent from French Guyana, and outlined the plans for the rally.

The remainder of August was spent in preparation, stocking the boat and stowing items not required until next hurricane season. We next had a send off dinner at 'Sails' with David and planned for a flotilla sail past as we left for Scotland Bay. Here we spent a couple of hours checking that all the systems were working and then set off for Guyana. Unlike all other journeys this we called sailing in company. There were 9 Boats ; Della Myra with Joe on board, Duplicat Rick and Amanda,(the only catamaran) Eileen of Avoca with David and Adrian the film guy, Freya of Clyde, Ann and Alan, N'Oubliez Jamais and Jean, Ocean Rainbow with James and Claire, Gaia with Romain and Matthew, Silent Annie with Mikey and Amanda and Piano. Ballerina Girl and Don with his son came later to join us in Bartica for the arrival celebrations. Duplicat motored the whole way along the north coast of Trinidad, then caught very favourable wind and current to speed them towards the Essequibo. Because we sailed along the coast we missed out on some of these advantages but the wind direction was still very favourable and we were able to sail the direct course for most of the way with just a couple of short detours onto starboard tack. In all, it took us three and a half days for the 310 miles from Trinidad to the mouth of the Essequibo. On the last night, we slowed down a little in order to negotiate the river in daylight. Our first really peaceful night was spent halfway to Bartica at the Lau-Lau islands. Not so peaceful at dawn though, when the parrots woke up!

From our base at the Hurakabra Resort we made side trips up river to Banganara Resort and downriver to Bartica for shopping and sightseeing. The first trip was to Marshall Falls with the whole rally, this was done in a fast piroque

and was quite scary with the rapids being taken at the same speed as a chase in a Bond movie. No one got wet and we were taken ashore for a short hike to the Falls. Our guide and piroque driver was excellent as he pointed out various plants and bird calls. On arriving at the Falls most people jumped into a 'freezing' pool at the base of the falls and then had fun cavorting about. (I took pictures)

Pic

We also made a trip to Kaieteur Falls with some of the Rally Participants. This is billed as one of the world's largest single drop waterfalls. We travelled by small aircraft and took some spectacular shots from the air before we landed. Amongst the wildlife on show while we were there, the Blue Morpho Butterfly, and the second largest Tank Bromeliads in the world- complete with their own Golden Frog in residence! Needless to say conditions did not allow photos to materialise.

After this we flew onto Iwokrama Rainforest Reservation where we checked in for the night. Accomodation was a private bungalow, more luxurious than I was expecting. Meals were served in the main building where there was a balcony to do some twitching and a bar. This resort is set up for serious field work , playing host to British Universities and other organisations. They are extremely well equiped with scientific equipment.

This is a black Caiman

patrolling the waterfront to deter swimmers, rumour had it that there were Piranhas in the water too! After a great local dinner that night we joined Rick and Amanda on a night cruise up river armed with powerful torches for spotting the eyes of Agouti, Caiman et al.

Next morning after breakfast we set off with Kevin our guide for a hike up Turtle Mountain. 

 Fortunately it was the dry season so quite a pleasant hike. Three hours (ish) to climb up (and the last half hour was nine out of ten in my range of steepness. But the views at the top were spectacular.

On the walk down the sole of my boot parted company with the top, so I dug out my spare pair and got home in time for lunch.

We checked out and said goodbye to the friendly staff at Iwokrama then were taken by Jeep to Rock View Lodge, in a savannah region. When we arrived 2 hours later, Rock View was in full preparation for it's second Music Festival and we enjoyed listening to the preparations and performances from their swimming pool. We had sundowners with the owners and other guests and then a communal evening meal.

Next morning Malcolm and Rick did another hike up a local hill looking for wildlife and birds and so on

while Amanda and I had a leisurely breakfast.

 Lunchtime we were treated as VIP's any choice from the vast selection being prepared for the concert later that day. Then a scheduled flight 

back to Georgetown where we were met by a driver who gave us a whistle-stop tour of the main items, namely the wooden cathedral and the tomb of the last president. Plus we passed through the Cummingsburg district!! more for my Family History research?

Quite enough after a long day. The expedition ended with a fast pirogue trip back to Bartica , where Michael the resident guide/tracker picked us up for the homeward journey to Hurakabra. Later we watched movies in the bar and had a BBQ catered for by Romain,Matthew and Adrian.

The next leg was another upwind sail to the Maroni River in French Guyana. Weather conditions were again completely settled but the course was dead to windward and, with the added hindrance of the adverse current, it took us half an hour under 4 days to cover the 275 miles.

 Throughout the trip were were within a few miles of Duplicat, which provided some added interest. Other, less welcome, interest came in the form of the myriad fishing boats we encountered on the last day, so we didn't get much rest on the last night at sea. We arrived at an Amerindian village called Awala-Yalimapo, where we were greeted by the owner of a restaurant/drinking establishment. He had prepared a brilliant lunch with drinks and a speech. The next day we were treated to some traditional dance

 and another lunch all was very impressive. The village was beautifully kept and tidy, the locals all very friendly. From this spot we did a shopping trip to restock fresh vegetables and such like. We had a trip to a cultural museum with work from local artists and films of the processes involved. Potters collecting clay from the river making the pots then glazing them with plant dyes and finally firing them in oil drums which had wood packed around them. The final product a masterpiece.

Next a trip to Mana a township in that area where we explored and had lunch, this too was exceptional, but I do appreciate good french food! Finally (30^th September) a trip to the French Guyana Space Center where we saw Ariane VA226 being launched from the Agami viewing site. It was another full day of travelling this time by coach, and the actual launch only took a few minutes! Hey ho, it was part of the rally so not the usual price of 52 Euros. We arrived home just before midnight. Friday we all had a potluck aboard S/C Duplicat – by far the largest boat for entertaining. Thanks here to Amanda and Rick.

We moved up to St- Laurent du Maroni, where we were treated to yet another warm welcome. We all sailed down with dress flags flying and arrived at 12 prompt. After picking up our personal buoy we went ashore to see Kit, Gem and Cathy had reciprocated the French delegations invitation and so furthered the entente cordial between the two countries. All the ladies were presented with bouquets of Tropical flowers and a Tourist bag of small items to be enjoyed later. Another exemplary lunch in the form of a finger buffet of gourmet items too numerous to mention. The following day was action packed too. The whole waterfront which had been decked out for the arrival was pressed into use for the townsfolk who were invited to try windsurfing, dinghy sailing, Optimist sailing and having a look on the rally boats. Meanwile facilities ashore were outstanding, no need to use water aboard Piano for the washing and plenty of beers in the fridge at the Marina office. David is a true STAR. We were also happy to meet his right hand man Samual with his girl friend Daniella who came to visit Piano.

More to follow!...