Isla de Culebrita

 Just a short sail but plagued with many motor-launches all going the same way!  Fortunately we picked up a buoy since the small craft had to throw an anchor ashore—they had no tender. ’Melvin’ arrived later and we all enjoyed crystal clear azure waters a cooling breeze and pleasant company.  Malcolm had to hike up the hill to the old lighthouse.  It was built in 1880 (so who did the census?) Anyway it is a ruin and a new one has been built. He also rowed across Tortuga beach to the Jacuzzis, an area of boulder filled pools which are frequently filled with water which percolates through from the northeast coast.
  From here we sailed to Isla Vieques just 25 Km away.  We first looked at Puerto Mosquito but since it was shallow and unprotected turned back for Peurto Ferrol.  It too was shallow but we safely anchored in 3m of water which was strongly bio-luminescent after dark. The more you moved about the great the disturbance and light show.  Sorry no pictures it just didn’t show up.
   Next day was an even shorter sail after we went slightly aground while trying to navigate out of the shallow bay. Just 2 miles to Ensenada Sun Bay where we picked up a buoy, had a quick swim to cool off , lunch, then into town for fresh vegetables etc.
  The Spanish invaders called Vieques and her smaller islands the Useless Islands and the pirates/British called it ‘Crab Island' due to the many crabs.  Once the Spanish arrived they conquered and enslaved the local Tainos , the Island then being taken into Puerto Rico.    Further landings were made by the English, French and Dutch but all were seen off by the Puerto Rican Spaniards. The annexation occurred in 1854 when Governor Don Teofilo Jaime LeGuillo began to build a fort.  The Island then saw a boost to industry as sugar mills were set up and run by black slaves.

  1898 the United States arrived in the form of the gunboat ‘Yale’.  The Fort commander told Lt Cont that he must fire a cannon before surrendering.  ‘41 the US Navy arrived and purchased 2/3 of the Island to use for ordinance.  This meant plenty of jobs in construction and people travelled from all the neighbouring islands to work.  Of course when the boom had finished the locals had no more work so were relocated to San Croix.  Fortunately for us the Americans have recently given up using their patch for bombardment although there are signs for divers to beware of unexploded bombs!  Unemployment is still high and tourism is in its infancy, this is all good for us blue-water sailors who can enjoy a relatively unspoilt Island.  We anchored at Esmerelda the small town on the West Coast.

 The pilot book said that a ‘Publico’/Taxi would cost $2 one way,  the guy we asked as to where the bus stop was said it would cost $3 his friends waved down another driver who was taking a couple to the ferry and he charged us $5 each on the outward journey and $6 on the return because he only had the pair of us aboard! 

   While in Isobel Seconda we walked to the light-house after a great breakfast on the way.  Then to the Fort/Museum which seems only to have ever been a jail for slaves and miscreants.  Besides some superb photography and art work it also showed artefacts from Archaeological digs.   On our way out we met the 3 chaps we had seen yesterday sailing into Sun Bay on a days cruise, how amazing! I promised to send them the snap I had taken of them all sailing.  After tea we sailed for Green Beach –just a few miles further on since it was ‘round the corner’ and less bumpy.  I made Beef Pepperpot and we watched the bioluminescence by candle-light  The alaarm was set for early next morning when we sailed off the anchorage for Boca del Infierno just 33 Km nearer to our destination. 

No sooner had we anchored at Cayos de Caribes when ‘Loonsong’ called us up and told us of a BBQ tomorrow evening.  The night was so peaceful, hardly a movement aboard ‘Piano’ refreshed we sailed the last 3 Km for Salinas.  This was all inside the reef which lays around the coast, so it was a speedy broad reach most of the way only stopping to stow the sails and motor into the bay.

Salinas—Puerto Rico 13th April 2012 

  

Julie & Malcolm

On arrival we motored to find ‘Melvin’ and not to be disappointed there was Julie on deck waving as though we hadn’t seen them! She came across and told us that we needed to order food for the BBQ so we dropped everything and went ashore to do so—and to check into the new customs area.  Although not staying at the marina the receptionist was very helpful and friendly.  The BBQ was awesome, 2 huge pork ribs, 2 pieces of chicken and sausage plus chips! (with a chocolate strawberry for afters)  We caught up with the missed days on ‘Melvin’ they had stopped to anchor at Monkey Island and had already found the free wi-fi ashore.

  Over coffee and cake we tried to do emails but it started to rain which put paid to that as the awning leaked too badly. The roads were awash when we walked back.  During the afternoon we played Mexican Train Dominoes.  Oh I forgot to say that the coolant has been disappearing from the reservoir for the generator and Malcolm has been trying to locate the leak.  He hasn’t found it yet but has found a leak in the salt water pump so it looks like a marina stop soon.

On Sunday we shared a car with ’Melvin’ and drove to San Juan for a sight-seeing day. From Salinas we travelled on the 52 and continued as far as the old town. We began along a board walk towards the Fort of San Felipe del Morro when we arrived at the town gate there was a notice to say the board walk was under refurbishment until later this year.  Not to be thwarted we continued through city across the green park areas before the Fort. There were many families flying kites in the brisk wind.  San Felipe del Morro is run by the Parks department so has an interpretive centre and re-enactments to see which explain the history of the fort.  We were fortunate enough to see demonstrations of a cannon and an old rifle being fired. After a short stop for light refreshments we sauntered to San Cristobel another more recent addition which is even more secure between the fortifications the Island has been safe from all invaders , I mean, Francis Drake, Abercromby, various Dutch and French soldiers until the Americans invaded c 1898. We continued back to the car via some delightful ‘Calla’s interspersed with ‘Plaza’s and fountains.  So tempting we stopped again for coffee and more cakes!

 See Picasa for snaps. Unfortunately, this late afternoon stop meant that we caught the evening traffic in town and it took over an hour to leave the car park !! We came to the conclusion that it is a National pastime to promenade on a Sunday evening. This meant that our planned drive back on the more scenic route had to be abandoned.