Ponta Del Guada,Sao Miguel, 21st August.

August still
Well what a good sail ! Which ended anchoring off the marina at Praia de Vittoria for a couple of days. This was when we realised that the genny problem was still with us! And the gas finally ran out. It was easier to move into the marina to get a refill and be able to access the shops for fresh veg etc. It also meant that Malcolm could begin testing again. He had got to the last lead and found an earth leak where a well insulated wire had rubbed right through to the metal casing and was causing a short. This was easily repaired and since the guy who helped us was having a look at Roakaldais he came over and added a few cable ties Yes ! Otto & Ester arrived on the Monday and had a meal with us which was preceded by a bottle of Champagne to celebrate ‘Piano’s birthday. They are returning to Lisbon en route for Greece where Otto will be doing a cargo run for 6 weeks to help a friend of his out. (Otto is a real Captain—but semi retired. Esther is going along for a holiday! We hope to meet up with them later in the year either in Rabbat or the Canaries.
The following day a German registered Halberg Wrasse 39. With Ziggi and Leila aboard. They were en route for the north after 10 years blue water sailing. Naturally we picked their brains over places which they recommended and would avoid over dinner and drinks. Thanks to both for their valuable experience.
Next day 17.35 We decided to slip for Sao Miguel the last Island on our list for the summer. We had another good sail (by which I mean no motoring), marred by one tiny problem. To set the scene : We slipped late afternoon so that we would arrive during daylight hours. We powered along at up to 7 knots in a sou’westerly breeze. After dinner Malcolm left me on watch and I was intrepid! Not noticing that the wind had filled in and with it some horrible showers. He must have been asleep because the next I knew he was peeking his nose on deck and suggesting that we ought to ‘reef’. OK good call (spoil my fun) it could have continued increasing …..
He asked the auto pilot to drive while we attended to the reef and it must have been drenched by rain because it just gave up ! A little cursing and after the sail change I was allowed to bed. I asked if he was going to steer by hand and he said no the auto pilot was functioning but not out on deck.
He 'woke me at 0300 for my next watch and by then it was working above deck again. I found this out when I asked it to change course a wee bit and it did as it was told. However now that it has failed twice under needy conditions Malcolm is determined to sort it out so that will be the boat job for Ponta Del Gada.
Arrived Ponta Del Gada 13.30 and now I’m keen that was 90 nautical miles in 19 hours so an average of 4.75 kts. (remembering I did 7’s on my watch please!)

Terceira second visit.

2nd August. Slipped for Terceira (again). Well it really was bumpy at anchor and the generator is now playing up (very intermittently—it must feel unwanted with all the attention given to the engine -hey ho what would we do with no boat jobs I wonder?
The sail was quite fast and with me now able to do a watch or two very exhilarating ! Although it was head winds all the way we did a very respectable 6 knots on my watch which pleased me no end! Of course Malcolm did all the hard work but this time was able to get some decent sleep. No whales this trip Arrived Angra de Heroism Marina in time for ‘teef.
Nice weather meant that we could scrub off all the salt and generally ‘spring clean’ the old girl. It is her birthday on the 14th so this is a start for the celebrations (if she behaves in the meantime!) We also welcomed another technician called Mr Carlos, he spoke excellent English having worked in the UK (Scotland). He listened to all that Malcolm had tried while scratching his head and muttering, then out came the Avo and he began taking readings (always a good sign)
Next he asked for the Service book and electrical plan. He was truly amazed that everything he asked for duly appeared with no fuss at all. Both he and Malcolm ‘ummed’ and ‘ahhed’ and then they tried disconnecting the built in battery charger (which isn’t used at all). Bingo ! The genny sprang to like as though nothing had been wrong!! We both had smiles across our faces and couldn’t thank the poor chap enough—Malcolm admits he would NEVER have found the problem. We paid the bill a token of 1 hours work because he likes working on boats so much now that he is retired. So now we are able to set off again with no problems (** watch this space!)
We spent a further couple of days having some fun. A trip to Praia de Vittoria for the last day of the festival and some more time looking round Angra. We were lucky enough to get seats at a folk-dancing festival and thoroughly enjoyed it.

12th August
After refuelling and paying the Marina we slipped for Graciosa. Just 50 Nmiles—so 10 hours expected. The trip began well with plenty of wind -so 6 knots of speed was very pleasing. But as usual the wind died and the engine went on. I had a quiet bet on that we wouldn't be in by eight o’clock. I wasn’t disappointed! The harbour turned out to be smaller than the pilot had suggested and there were no berths for us. The only possibility was a slippery wall. While Malcolm was sorting the lines out a local came by and attracted his attention to an electricity cable which connected 2 street lights and ran across the corner of the harbour—just where our fore stay sat! !!! This meant that we had to keep moving the boat back away from it as the tide came in or we would have been fried! Adding to the problem was a very choppy sea and the slippery wall ( which also had slippery steps) You can only imagine what terrific fun it was to be bobbing up and down while preparing and eating our meal and then trying to catch 55 minutes sleep before the alaruum went off to move the ropes . As soon as it was light we slipped (sic) for Terceira again

Flores July/August

28th Slipped for Flores, some good sailing and of course some motoring—just as we had given up on delivery of the starter motor ,paid the marina and had to return to the office to satisfy the bureaucratic police there, the delivery man arrived with the heavy parcel ! How neat was that? The sail was awesome in that I got to see whales up close eeek! the huge head came up to have a look at us and then slowly slipped back down. A truly memorable moment. Of course, my eyes were glued to the scene and sure enough I was rewarded with many more sightings of whales blowing in the near distance and quite a few Dolphins cruising alongside. I also watched the Cory's Shearwaters (Calonectris diomedea)who only do 2-3 flaps of the wing & then glide for a couple of minutes swooping just above the waves. It looks as though they may be fishing but after much watching I have not seen any dive into the water—yet!
We arrived at Larges harbour around 7.30 in the evening and were immediately invited to dinner aboard Roakeldais. What it is to have happy friends to meet you.

30th After a rest day to fit the new SM we helped Ester & Otto with another hike. From Faja Grande to Ponta do Albarnaz. It was a decent 4KM hike up to the picnic spot with varied flowers and scenery. Flores is named for its flowers and we were not disappointed. Now that it is ‘HIGH SEASON’ there are many more plants in flower. The Yellow and Red (in Ya face) Cannas, Agapanthi, and ginger all make a terrific show, This is really the place for those who enjoy nature.
Toured the rest of the Island , namely the Lakes in the Calderas of various volcanoes. All are accessible by car and have signboards up to give useful information. The best thing is that even though it is HIGH SEASON there are so few TOURISTS ! Continued around the island stopping at viewpoints so that you can see for yourselves.
31st did some more painting with Esther on what we thought would be the new marina wall, the locals tell us it will be for fishing boats but hey it’s good practice! Also made a lemon cake & birthday-card for Esther who celebrates tomorrow.

Meanwhile here is the hike: (you may have to click to take the box away)

View Larger Map

Sao Jorge

Hike Pico Topo

Taxi to the start point and then a 5 km hike upwards along a dirt road built in 1944. On the way up we didn’t do the Montoso Cave which involved ropes and climbing gear. We continued up to Morro Pelado and then to Pico da Esperança (Hope peak -the highest point on Sao Jorge 1053 m). Picnic lunch at Hope Peak and afterwards continued along the road but now downwards towards Norte Grande , here we stopped for an Ice lolly! The final hike down to the Faja was VERY steep and was the only access in 1947. It did have rock steps but was extremely slippery –but it was a much shorter route that the road! Almost at the end a small detour to Simão Dias Pool which had larva columns and niches. The Restaurant at Sea level sold nice cool beers. There are no links to google for this hike since the net for the island only shows contours

Fayal, Horta

15th Day of rest & Recovery the Nav Chair broke and the image folders have now been renumbered. A sunny day so did some washing.

16th July Slipped for Fayal –Horta. Wonderful sail across just enough wind to keep the engine off and smooth enough for full enjoyment. Engine now need a hammer blow to encourage it to start. We have decided that this means it is too unreliable for emergencies and so will take it in for new brushes and order a new one from GB.

19th Visited the Whale Museum. Which showed the industry before whaling was banned. Our guide was a marine biologist who was sympathetic to the subject and also discussed the turtle problem which he was working on. Leather-backed turtles are born in America and have a difficult life from the start, so it doesn’t help when they spend their adolescence in the Azores only to be hooked on a long line meant for fish. The Turtle numbers has fallen dramatically since long line fishing became popular and of course now that the Azores are in the Common Market it means that other member countries can come closer and also do the turtles some damage. Surprisingly Turtles eat Jelly –fish (which we have seen by the thousand out at sea!) so why they even go for a long line is beyond me !

20th General Sightseeing around Horta, while taking the nav chair in to be repaired,

22nd Hired a car for the day and did the Capelo to Capelinhos walk Gave the car keys to Esther & Otto half way along. Then went to the Capelinhos Museum to learn about plate tectonics and volcanoes. The 3-D film was really superb.

24th hired mountain bikes which were taken to the top on the Caldeira and unloaded. We had expected to cycle around the rim but after starting off Ester and I decided it was ridiculous to try. Needless to say Otto and Malcolm battled on and arrived back shattered! Martin & Jean forgot to tell us that you are supposed to WALK the rim and THEN cycle back to Horta ! The guy at Peters’ Sport was gob smacked when he heard that Malcolm and Otto had actually done it !! The free-wheel down was awesome 18KM from the top down and was it fast. I was overtaken by a car at one point but kept pace with it for a fair distance afterwards.

26th Took the ferry to Pico Island where we hired another car and toured around. The spectacular scenery along the forestry road down the centre of the island will not show in the photos but I have included a selection.

The rest of our stay has been spent renewing the paintwork on our picture. The whole of the harbour wall and marina is covered with reminders of all the yachts which have been here. Piano herself has been twice before but the paintwork had deteriorated so I have brightened it up I do hope Yan & Ghislaine approve of it

Velas, Sao Jorge.

I took advice from everyone! Had a fizzy Vitamin C drink for breakfast, Stugeron (25mg) and the wrist bands! The passage was calm and enjoyable no rolly wave motion and I felt fine throughout ! (note to remind myself to try the same again ) We both had lunch and dinner while en route and also a couple of hour kip. Yes we were rewarded with more dolpins and rather a sea full of Jelly fish. The wind died completely towards dawn and when we checked with the Marina ‘Jose’ told us that he was expecting 26 yachts from the Horta to Velas race later in the day. (Some hope with no wind I thought) anyway we anchored and unloaded ‘Cresendo’ so that we could get ashore. Needless to say the harbour was packed! After checking in with the police we has a look round and found various stages and booths set up ready for the weekends entertainment. Since they has changed the dates and not the publicity it was the end of the Fiesta. However, we had plenty to fill our first weekend.
We waited until eleven o’clock for the procession to begin and had a few beers…..

On Sunday it was sizzling so I had a day on washing the deck. Malcolm meanwhile went to see the “Tourada à Corda” the street bullfighting. This one was on the harbour wall with containers to provide safe viewing for the public. It also meant any easy exit to the sea if the bull got too close, except one bull fancied a swim and jumped in !
Meanwhile, the Marina which had emptied during the day had started to fill again.
On Monday I went to sign in for the week and so did many more arrivals! Amongst whom were another British boat “Freedom To…” It was great to exchange stories on deck in the heat of the evening.
Tuesday we took a taxi to Serra do Topo for the start of a 10km downhill hike. The top was covered with low cloud but we had soon walked down out if it - into a pleasantly cool day. The views of the valleys below from this height were amazing! We couldn’t see much of the island coastline though. Images are in Picasa as always and the flora are in the other folder. After this epic 4 hour hike we had a couple of cool beers while waiting for our taxi driver. The final 3km were along the coast at sea level. The only track into the very small village is only passable with a 4 wheel dune buggy. We were passed by some walkers with their guide as it started to rain and no sooner than I had thought how nice a ride would be an Islander stopped and offered us a lift.
Thursday we hired a car and had a trip to the Western end and then the Cheese Factory where we had a guided tour. Next the church at Santa Barbara and along to the Eastern end to a town called Topo.
Images are on Picasa.

Angra Do Heroismo

18th Took the bus to Angra do Heroísmo and climbed Monte Brazil, then had a picnic at the top. Returned to the city which has World Heritage Status and followed the tourist route around to see the sights. It was a tiring day but well worth the effort. The buildings are renovated to a high standard and have fresh paint, which adds to the beauty. Pictures on Picasa will have any explanation necessary.
19th we hired a car and followed the costal route to Angra for the start of the Feira (Festival) How amazing that Otto & Esther had arrived while we had been sightseeing yesterday and we were able to catch up with them and see the Carnival procession—after a local meal of “alcatra” a meat stew. After the procession the music began at the marina. By this time we had begun to tire so finished up aboard Roakeldais for coffee and then wended our way back up to the car for the drive home. A very late night (2.30 am again!)
20th took the gentle walking route (TER 8) Interesting for its volcanic items. The first are Oxen cart tracks in the larva. ‘V’ shaped tracks were made 200 years ago and ‘U’ shaped ones slightly later as wheel technology improved. The path is a goldmine of flora and fauna and is sooo green! The water table is just below the surface which means that Japanese Red Cedars, Australian Blackwood, Eucalyptus and Eastern Cottonwood are able to grow. At ground level (where it is more humid there are carpets of moss, ferns, Sweet pittosporum, heather, and ginger.
Volcanic larva flowed over this land over 3,000 years ago and the very fluid basaltic larva from the Guilherme Moniz Caldera produced the landscape over which we have just walked. A large outcrop of larva attracted our attention which had cavities left by volcanic ‘bombs’ and a small larva tunnel. When knocked the rock sounded hollow! Back at the picnic area we see how the larva flowed over the existing sub soil at a public viewing area. This was the same flow which formed the Biscoito das Fontinhas (the area made into a sea bathing are we visited the other day)
21st, As forecast Monday began overcast with 79% humidity and deteriorated to Cornish ‘Mizzle’ ! Plenty to keep us occupied aboard routine checks etc plus preparation for the next passage to Sao Jorge.