Nereid's
Rally
Last
Year we heard of the great explorations during the Nereid's Rally to
Guyana, French Guyana, and Dutch Guyana. This year we signed up and
took part. The preliminary meeting took place at Sails Restaurant.
As in previous years David Matelicani gave the introductions, namely
of Kit and Gem from Hurakabra, Cathy Hughes (now Minister for tourism
in Guyana,) and members of the contingent from French Guyana, and
outlined the plans for the rally.
The
remainder of August was spent in preparation, stocking the boat and
stowing items not required until next hurricane season. We next had
a send off dinner at 'Sails' with David and planned for a flotilla
sail past as we left for Scotland Bay. Here we spent a couple of
hours checking that all the systems were working and then set off for
Guyana. Unlike all other journeys this we called sailing in company.
There were 9 Boats ; Della Myra with Joe on board, Duplicat Rick and
Amanda,(the only catamaran) Eileen of Avoca with David and Adrian the
film guy, Freya of Clyde, Ann and Alan, N'Oubliez Jamais and Jean,
Ocean Rainbow with James and Claire, Gaia with Romain and Matthew,
Silent Annie with Mikey and Amanda and Piano. Ballerina Girl and Don
with his son came later to join us in Bartica for the arrival
celebrations. Duplicat motored the whole way along the north coast
of Trinidad, then caught very favourable wind and current to speed
them towards the Essequibo. Because we sailed along the coast we
missed out on some of these advantages but the wind direction was
still very favourable and we were able to sail the direct course for
most of the way with just a couple of short detours onto starboard
tack. In all, it took us three and a half days for the 310 miles from
Trinidad to the mouth of the Essequibo. On the last night, we slowed
down a little in order to negotiate the river in daylight. Our first
really peaceful night was spent halfway to Bartica at the Lau-Lau
islands. Not so peaceful at dawn though, when the parrots woke up!
From
our base at the Hurakabra Resort we made side trips up
river to Banganara Resort and downriver to Bartica
for shopping and sightseeing. The first trip was to Marshall Falls
with the whole rally, this was done in a fast piroque
and
was quite scary with the rapids being taken at the same speed as a
chase in a Bond movie. No one got wet and we were taken ashore for a
short hike to the Falls. Our guide and piroque driver was excellent
as he pointed out various plants and bird calls. On arriving at the
Falls most people jumped into a 'freezing' pool at the base of the
falls and then had fun cavorting about. (I took pictures)
Pic
We
also made a trip to Kaieteur Falls with some of the
Rally Participants. This is billed as one of the world's
largest single drop waterfalls. We travelled by small aircraft and
took some spectacular shots from the air before we landed. Amongst
the wildlife on show while we were there, the Blue Morpho Butterfly,
and the second largest Tank Bromeliads in the world- complete with
their own Golden Frog in residence! Needless to say conditions did
not allow photos to materialise.
After
this we flew onto Iwokrama Rainforest Reservation where we checked in
for the night. Accomodation was a private bungalow, more luxurious
than I was expecting. Meals were served in the main building where
there was a balcony to do some twitching and a bar. This resort is
set up for serious field work , playing host to British Universities
and other organisations. They are extremely well equiped with
scientific equipment.
This
is a black Caiman
patrolling
the waterfront to deter swimmers, rumour had it that there were
Piranhas in the water too! After a great local dinner that night we
joined Rick and Amanda on a night cruise up river armed with powerful
torches for spotting the eyes of Agouti, Caiman et al.
Next
morning after breakfast we set off with Kevin our guide for a hike up
Turtle Mountain.
Fortunately it was the dry season so
quite a pleasant hike. Three hours (ish) to climb up (and the last
half hour was nine out of ten in my range of steepness. But the
views at the top were spectacular.
On
the walk down the sole of my boot parted company with the top, so I
dug out my spare pair and got home in time for lunch.
We
checked out and said goodbye to the friendly staff at Iwokrama then
were taken by Jeep to Rock View Lodge, in a savannah region. When we
arrived 2 hours later, Rock View was in full preparation for it's
second Music Festival and we enjoyed listening to the preparations
and performances from their swimming pool. We had sundowners with
the owners and other guests and then a communal evening meal.
Next
morning Malcolm and Rick did another hike up a local hill looking for
wildlife and birds and so on
while
Amanda and I had a leisurely breakfast.
Lunchtime we were treated as
VIP's any choice from the vast selection being prepared for the
concert later that day. Then a scheduled flight
back to Georgetown
where we were met by a driver who gave us a whistle-stop tour of the
main items, namely the wooden cathedral and the tomb of the last
president. Plus we passed through the Cummingsburg district!! more
for my Family History research?
Quite
enough after a long day. The expedition ended with a fast pirogue
trip back to Bartica , where Michael the resident guide/tracker
picked us up for the homeward journey to Hurakabra. Later we watched
movies in the bar and had a BBQ catered for by Romain,Matthew and
Adrian.
The
next leg was another upwind sail to the Maroni River in
French Guyana. Weather conditions were again completely settled but
the course was dead to windward and, with the added hindrance of the
adverse current, it took us half an hour under 4 days to cover the
275 miles.
Throughout the trip were were within a few miles of
Duplicat, which provided some added interest. Other, less welcome,
interest came in the form of the myriad fishing boats we encountered
on the last day, so we didn't get much rest on the last night at sea.
We arrived at an Amerindian village called Awala-Yalimapo,
where we were greeted by the owner of a restaurant/drinking
establishment. He had prepared a brilliant lunch with drinks and a
speech. The next day we were treated to some traditional dance
and
another lunch all was very impressive. The village was beautifully
kept and tidy, the locals all very friendly. From this spot we did a
shopping trip to restock fresh vegetables and such like. We had a
trip to a cultural museum with work from local artists and films of
the processes involved. Potters collecting clay from the river making
the pots then glazing them with plant dyes and finally firing them in
oil drums which had wood packed around them. The final product a
masterpiece.
Next
a trip to Mana a township in that area where we explored and had
lunch, this too was exceptional, but I do appreciate good french
food! Finally (30th September) a trip to the French
Guyana Space Center where we saw Ariane VA226 being launched from the
Agami viewing site. It was another full day of travelling this time
by coach, and the actual launch only took a few minutes! Hey ho, it
was part of the rally so not the usual price of 52 Euros. We arrived
home just before midnight. Friday we all had a potluck aboard S/C
Duplicat – by far the largest boat for entertaining. Thanks here
to Amanda and Rick.
We
moved up to St- Laurent du Maroni, where we were treated to yet
another warm welcome. We all sailed down with dress flags flying and
arrived at 12 prompt. After picking up our personal buoy we went
ashore to see Kit, Gem and Cathy had reciprocated the French
delegations invitation and so furthered the entente cordial between
the two countries. All the ladies were presented with bouquets of
Tropical flowers and a Tourist bag of small items to be enjoyed
later. Another exemplary lunch in the form of a finger buffet of
gourmet items too numerous to mention. The following day was action
packed too. The whole waterfront which had been decked out for the
arrival was pressed into use for the townsfolk who were invited to
try windsurfing, dinghy sailing, Optimist sailing and having a look
on the rally boats. Meanwile facilities ashore were outstanding, no
need to use water aboard Piano for the washing and plenty of beers in
the fridge at the Marina office. David is a true STAR. We were also
happy to meet his right hand man Samual with his girl friend Daniella
who came to visit Piano.
More to follow!...
