The last of Bonaire.
The interlude of Bliss is almost over, we have dived many times and have taken sufficient photos to fill a book. I have even managed to pick the best for a slideshow! This together with tags and scientific names. The next big job will be to make a movie but that can wait ‘til we get back to Bohill.
Around Valentines Day we made plans to set sail North, this was a short plan and quickly washed away by the tide. Next we filled the fuel, water and petrol tanks at the marina and noticed that the anemometer was not working. So the following day I hauled Malcolm to the top of the mast to bring it down for some TLC. 3 in 1 worked wonders so it’s happy to work again. Van Den Tweel’s is a marvelous supermarket and about the same standard as M & S in the UK , their fresh milk is flown in daily by KLM air! However non left on Friday so Malcolm walked in on Saturday and collected the latest delivery.
This is a snap of two Frog fishes the Orange one is obvious– what colour is the other ? Answers as comments please!
Saturday we have found a classical concert on in town so early dinner and then to listen.
Finally I must mention our friends on S/Y Red Shoes, Brine & Barbara, we have had many good times in their company and feel sad that they are still awaiting parts for their water-maker.
I forgot to say we saw Luis Quiintero play guitar at Fortkerk, Curaçao, last month with Otto & Esther. Also; we have come to the end of ‘Suits’ and how is this possible when it has run for so long? Series 3 has only 5 episodes! I think we need some more?
The Upwind Passage
We topped up on fresh supplies one last time at Van den Tweels and said goodbye to S/Y Red Shoes, then set sail for St Thomas Charlotte Amelie. It was quite a stiff breeze and pleasantly fast. So such a good job that I had 6 sailing meals ready to be defrosted and reheated instead of having to cook while crashing around. Delia would be proud of me! - not that I am all that hungry while en passage!
To our amazement we arrived early in the morning , I might have guessed since I wasn't called at 22 hundred hours for my watch! I do HATE arriving at night, my night vision leaves much to be desired but it doesn't help that there are also unlit buoys and boats all over the anchorage with a backlight of Land lights which resemble Christmas, namely traffic lights, street-lights and vehicle light plus illuminated adverts to name a few.
We dropped anchor smartly and retired abed ( and I did get a lie in !) We checked in later that day and slept well again the following night. By the time we caught up with emails both of our inboxes were overflowing plus our dear friends Jen & John (S/Y Aeesha see racing last year) had planned our evening for us. A BBQ and entertainment aboard S/Y Out of Africa - a Moody . What a great evening it was. The following day Malcolm hiked with them to the island.
We also made our usual visit to K Mart. New sandles and shorts for Malcolm but alas no air-tight containers yet for the large casserole, so instead a new frying pan non stick coated with “Rock” I wonder how long it will last?
Next day we left for Christmas Cove and some snorkelling, nothing on Bonaire but still Malcolm manage to find a new species. Then after checking out at St Johns we made for Virgin Gorda. Interesting that NO paperwork was needed! Apparently they have a deal with the BVIs so I hope the young guy has his facts right!
Yes ! No problem signing in at Virgin Gorda, with good enough wi-fi plus a reasonable bookswap too. Great weather and no stress, this is more like it! Chickens abound in all locations , even the beach bar:
Another day another port. St Barths just in time to meet up with Paul and Jane on their annual holiday. Jane is convalescing from a hip replacement so no time aboard for her this year.
She is however making great progress with recovering her mobility, I’m sure it won’t be too long before she is back in the saddle! We are invited to stay ashore with them which makes a pleasant change to all the wind that we have been listening too aboard. We had some tremendous food including one of Pauls’ famous BBQ’s. We visited Baie de St Jean, Anse de Saline and Anse du Gouveneur In all such hospitality and friendship—the time flew by– we checked out to leave for St Martin and even saw their planes over head while on our way.
Only a few days in St Martin (just to restock the cellar)
with plenty of washing for “Shrimpey’s”. Mike and Sally are looking well and happy to see us. We anchor in Marigot Bay, rather than run the gauntlet with the shallows in the Lagoon. I manage to get a few more places on Trip Advisor too. Shopping is easy and Croissants, Baguettes and Brie with wine are at the top of the list. While sourcing some spares at Budget we encounter Pam and Andy (S/Y Felice ) who inform us that they are returning to the UK so sell their little yacht (sad) for something bigger. We will hold that thought until we meet again. Last years refund on batteries meant that it was a free shopping trip at Budget—wow almost unheard of.
A fast ride under full sail back to St Barths for the Bucket Race. Once again we arrived at the finish line and were able to get some great shots. The second day we climbed up to the old Fort to see the race and met Linda and Andy (S/Y Coromandel) We anchored overnight at Anse de Colombier and were invited over to have sundowners and play Mexican Train Dominoes.
Wednesday 25th March we sailed to Antigua, had a day at Jolly Harbour then anchored at 5 Islands Bay for better wi fi. Once again the wind is blowing old boots into the bay being funneled around the coastal mountains, if it stays like this the Antigua Race calendar should be exciting. After smelling a whiff of diesel Malcolm investigated to find a split hose on the generator which he was able to fix without resorting to Budget Marine! We see S/Y Bayzano in Folly Bay so anchor close and pay them a visit. Time to catch up on their travels and have a beer or so. They have been to Culebra and around mostly waiting for the same winds as us.
Sunday 29th March, since the wind has abated we decide to sail to Barbuda, a sister Island to Antigua but totally different. It being a broad ish reach we use full sail and arrive before lunch having made excellent time, only 5 1/2 hours at an average speed of over 7 knots! It rains as we approach but we manage to negotiate the sand banks and coral reefs to the anchorage. Only 3 other yachts for an eleven mile sand spit. Next day we are hailed by Chris (S/C Alia Vita) who asks if we would like to go with them on an Island trip. They pick us up after coffee, and we wait a little while for Geoffrey to arrive, getting acquainted with our new friends Rob and Francis, who sailed the pond last November. Geoffrey arrives, he is famous, having his picture on the cover of the latest Doyles Guide. First a high speed motor to the office to pay the entrance to the Codrington Lagoon National Park—Magnificent Frigate bird Sanctuary. Then the start of another run across the inland lagoon, with a short stop for him to introduce himself and some history of the Frigate bird colony. Which, incidentally, were able to move from this spot out of harms way when a hurricane threatened to wipe them out. They later relocated to their present home a further 20 minutes ride away.
The breeding season is from November until the end of March. We therefore see many hatchlings in nests, with many birds soaring above and one or two males still hoping to find a mate.
This Sanctuary is the pride of the Island they appreciate that the birds could move house at any time , so the guides take pains to disturb the nests as little as possible. A buoyed rope prevents anyone getting too close.
The water around is teeming with an upside down jelly fish — Quite difficult to see as they have a dark pigment in their tentacles and look like aquatic plants. Occasionally you can see the normal signs of a pulsating jelly fish. The pigment contains chlorophyll which converts sunlight to starch by photosynthesis, this is why the jelly fish has to bask upside down.
We speed back to the jetty and Geoffrey hands us onto Dilly a taxi cab driver who is to take us to the “Highlands”.
On the way he tells us that Barbuda is 62 sq miles of an idyllic island paradise. Here there are miles and miles of EMPTY sandy beaches ok I lie maybe one or two people and the odd Mangrove bush.
Plus a tinge of pink which on close inspection is due to weeny pink bi-valve shells. By the time we arrive at the Highlands we know that Barbuda was finally claimed from the Amerindians in 1666. It was leased to Sir Christopher and his brother John Codrington in 1685 for the rent of 1 fat sheep when required in the UK. Since the island is mostly sand, sugar cane did not grow well. In fact only a few hardy vegetables were grown to feed the slaves both here and on Antigua. When a glut was produced the excess was traded. By far the best product were the fine slaves which working the land. They were so well treated that they needed no overseer to berate them. The island soon became the major source of slaves for the Region.
Barbuda meanwhile needed meat and this must have been imported originally as there are now wild deer, boar, sheep, pigs, horses and goats. The other source were the shallow, warm, waters which harboured corals, surrounding the shores which provided a bounty of fish. However these same corals also became a problem for passing trade which often ran aground (with the help of a false light-house). No doubt these wrecks have in turn provided nursery’s for more coral growth.
We arrive at Two Foot Bay where the Gun Shot Cliff, Darby and Indian Caves are first climbed and then investigated by our party. The cliffs are similar to those on Bonaire and Curaçao, being VERY sharp and full of thorns. Views of the North East coast were pretty good even from this height. (100 ft or 60m ). While climbing back down there was a brief shower but hardly enough to wet the ground. The Island desalination plant gives salt water so most people depend on well water and what little can be caught.
Next stop is the Customs & Immigration offices for Rob and Francis to check out, they sail for St Barths tomorrow.
Finally at nearer 3 o’clock we arrive at a seaside restaurant, which Dilly phoned to book for us. We were the only customers and were given a warm welcome and our food was almost ready for us. Needless to say Malcolm and I had Crayfish with cole-slaw, pasta salad, green salad pumpkin and sweet potato. Francis and Rob had tasted it yesterday so had Snapper instead and were equally impressed. Dilly arrived to pick us up and return us to the jetty where Geoffrey awaited our return. We had this snap taken with him to mark the day.
No need to cook that night!
Tuesday 31st March, sees us motoring round to Cocoa Bay, meandering through said corals and shifting sandbanks (3 hours motoring slowly). After lunch the skies turned grey and another 10 minute bust of rain. It seems the best snorkelling will be in the mornings.
We have now sailed back to Antigua, 5 Islands again to upload this issue, its Easter Saturday and we have just finished eating dinner at 22.30 yes you guessed the gas ran out so the roast took longer!
Anyway, I leave you here to do the drying up , and wish you all a Happy Easter!
Excuse typos yawn.....
The interlude of Bliss is almost over, we have dived many times and have taken sufficient photos to fill a book. I have even managed to pick the best for a slideshow! This together with tags and scientific names. The next big job will be to make a movie but that can wait ‘til we get back to Bohill.
Around Valentines Day we made plans to set sail North, this was a short plan and quickly washed away by the tide. Next we filled the fuel, water and petrol tanks at the marina and noticed that the anemometer was not working. So the following day I hauled Malcolm to the top of the mast to bring it down for some TLC. 3 in 1 worked wonders so it’s happy to work again. Van Den Tweel’s is a marvelous supermarket and about the same standard as M & S in the UK , their fresh milk is flown in daily by KLM air! However non left on Friday so Malcolm walked in on Saturday and collected the latest delivery.
This is a snap of two Frog fishes the Orange one is obvious– what colour is the other ? Answers as comments please!
Saturday we have found a classical concert on in town so early dinner and then to listen.
Finally I must mention our friends on S/Y Red Shoes, Brine & Barbara, we have had many good times in their company and feel sad that they are still awaiting parts for their water-maker.
I forgot to say we saw Luis Quiintero play guitar at Fortkerk, Curaçao, last month with Otto & Esther. Also; we have come to the end of ‘Suits’ and how is this possible when it has run for so long? Series 3 has only 5 episodes! I think we need some more?
The Upwind Passage
We topped up on fresh supplies one last time at Van den Tweels and said goodbye to S/Y Red Shoes, then set sail for St Thomas Charlotte Amelie. It was quite a stiff breeze and pleasantly fast. So such a good job that I had 6 sailing meals ready to be defrosted and reheated instead of having to cook while crashing around. Delia would be proud of me! - not that I am all that hungry while en passage!
To our amazement we arrived early in the morning , I might have guessed since I wasn't called at 22 hundred hours for my watch! I do HATE arriving at night, my night vision leaves much to be desired but it doesn't help that there are also unlit buoys and boats all over the anchorage with a backlight of Land lights which resemble Christmas, namely traffic lights, street-lights and vehicle light plus illuminated adverts to name a few.
We dropped anchor smartly and retired abed ( and I did get a lie in !) We checked in later that day and slept well again the following night. By the time we caught up with emails both of our inboxes were overflowing plus our dear friends Jen & John (S/Y Aeesha see racing last year) had planned our evening for us. A BBQ and entertainment aboard S/Y Out of Africa - a Moody . What a great evening it was. The following day Malcolm hiked with them to the island.
We also made our usual visit to K Mart. New sandles and shorts for Malcolm but alas no air-tight containers yet for the large casserole, so instead a new frying pan non stick coated with “Rock” I wonder how long it will last?
Next day we left for Christmas Cove and some snorkelling, nothing on Bonaire but still Malcolm manage to find a new species. Then after checking out at St Johns we made for Virgin Gorda. Interesting that NO paperwork was needed! Apparently they have a deal with the BVIs so I hope the young guy has his facts right!
Yes ! No problem signing in at Virgin Gorda, with good enough wi-fi plus a reasonable bookswap too. Great weather and no stress, this is more like it! Chickens abound in all locations , even the beach bar:
Another day another port. St Barths just in time to meet up with Paul and Jane on their annual holiday. Jane is convalescing from a hip replacement so no time aboard for her this year.
She is however making great progress with recovering her mobility, I’m sure it won’t be too long before she is back in the saddle! We are invited to stay ashore with them which makes a pleasant change to all the wind that we have been listening too aboard. We had some tremendous food including one of Pauls’ famous BBQ’s. We visited Baie de St Jean, Anse de Saline and Anse du Gouveneur In all such hospitality and friendship—the time flew by– we checked out to leave for St Martin and even saw their planes over head while on our way.
Only a few days in St Martin (just to restock the cellar)
with plenty of washing for “Shrimpey’s”. Mike and Sally are looking well and happy to see us. We anchor in Marigot Bay, rather than run the gauntlet with the shallows in the Lagoon. I manage to get a few more places on Trip Advisor too. Shopping is easy and Croissants, Baguettes and Brie with wine are at the top of the list. While sourcing some spares at Budget we encounter Pam and Andy (S/Y Felice ) who inform us that they are returning to the UK so sell their little yacht (sad) for something bigger. We will hold that thought until we meet again. Last years refund on batteries meant that it was a free shopping trip at Budget—wow almost unheard of.
A fast ride under full sail back to St Barths for the Bucket Race. Once again we arrived at the finish line and were able to get some great shots. The second day we climbed up to the old Fort to see the race and met Linda and Andy (S/Y Coromandel) We anchored overnight at Anse de Colombier and were invited over to have sundowners and play Mexican Train Dominoes.
Wednesday 25th March we sailed to Antigua, had a day at Jolly Harbour then anchored at 5 Islands Bay for better wi fi. Once again the wind is blowing old boots into the bay being funneled around the coastal mountains, if it stays like this the Antigua Race calendar should be exciting. After smelling a whiff of diesel Malcolm investigated to find a split hose on the generator which he was able to fix without resorting to Budget Marine! We see S/Y Bayzano in Folly Bay so anchor close and pay them a visit. Time to catch up on their travels and have a beer or so. They have been to Culebra and around mostly waiting for the same winds as us.
Sunday 29th March, since the wind has abated we decide to sail to Barbuda, a sister Island to Antigua but totally different. It being a broad ish reach we use full sail and arrive before lunch having made excellent time, only 5 1/2 hours at an average speed of over 7 knots! It rains as we approach but we manage to negotiate the sand banks and coral reefs to the anchorage. Only 3 other yachts for an eleven mile sand spit. Next day we are hailed by Chris (S/C Alia Vita) who asks if we would like to go with them on an Island trip. They pick us up after coffee, and we wait a little while for Geoffrey to arrive, getting acquainted with our new friends Rob and Francis, who sailed the pond last November. Geoffrey arrives, he is famous, having his picture on the cover of the latest Doyles Guide. First a high speed motor to the office to pay the entrance to the Codrington Lagoon National Park—Magnificent Frigate bird Sanctuary. Then the start of another run across the inland lagoon, with a short stop for him to introduce himself and some history of the Frigate bird colony. Which, incidentally, were able to move from this spot out of harms way when a hurricane threatened to wipe them out. They later relocated to their present home a further 20 minutes ride away.
The breeding season is from November until the end of March. We therefore see many hatchlings in nests, with many birds soaring above and one or two males still hoping to find a mate.
This Sanctuary is the pride of the Island they appreciate that the birds could move house at any time , so the guides take pains to disturb the nests as little as possible. A buoyed rope prevents anyone getting too close.
The water around is teeming with an upside down jelly fish — Quite difficult to see as they have a dark pigment in their tentacles and look like aquatic plants. Occasionally you can see the normal signs of a pulsating jelly fish. The pigment contains chlorophyll which converts sunlight to starch by photosynthesis, this is why the jelly fish has to bask upside down.
We speed back to the jetty and Geoffrey hands us onto Dilly a taxi cab driver who is to take us to the “Highlands”.
On the way he tells us that Barbuda is 62 sq miles of an idyllic island paradise. Here there are miles and miles of EMPTY sandy beaches ok I lie maybe one or two people and the odd Mangrove bush.
Barbuda meanwhile needed meat and this must have been imported originally as there are now wild deer, boar, sheep, pigs, horses and goats. The other source were the shallow, warm, waters which harboured corals, surrounding the shores which provided a bounty of fish. However these same corals also became a problem for passing trade which often ran aground (with the help of a false light-house). No doubt these wrecks have in turn provided nursery’s for more coral growth.
We arrive at Two Foot Bay where the Gun Shot Cliff, Darby and Indian Caves are first climbed and then investigated by our party. The cliffs are similar to those on Bonaire and Curaçao, being VERY sharp and full of thorns. Views of the North East coast were pretty good even from this height. (100 ft or 60m ). While climbing back down there was a brief shower but hardly enough to wet the ground. The Island desalination plant gives salt water so most people depend on well water and what little can be caught.
Next stop is the Customs & Immigration offices for Rob and Francis to check out, they sail for St Barths tomorrow.
Finally at nearer 3 o’clock we arrive at a seaside restaurant, which Dilly phoned to book for us. We were the only customers and were given a warm welcome and our food was almost ready for us. Needless to say Malcolm and I had Crayfish with cole-slaw, pasta salad, green salad pumpkin and sweet potato. Francis and Rob had tasted it yesterday so had Snapper instead and were equally impressed. Dilly arrived to pick us up and return us to the jetty where Geoffrey awaited our return. We had this snap taken with him to mark the day.
No need to cook that night!
Tuesday 31st March, sees us motoring round to Cocoa Bay, meandering through said corals and shifting sandbanks (3 hours motoring slowly). After lunch the skies turned grey and another 10 minute bust of rain. It seems the best snorkelling will be in the mornings.
We have now sailed back to Antigua, 5 Islands again to upload this issue, its Easter Saturday and we have just finished eating dinner at 22.30 yes you guessed the gas ran out so the roast took longer!
Anyway, I leave you here to do the drying up , and wish you all a Happy Easter!
Excuse typos yawn.....
