Ponce, Puerto Rico

Thursday we went to Ponce a local smallish town named after Leon de Ponce a Spaniard and full of history. We took a coach tour around the highlights and then walked the old streets for more delights. Amongst which were a row of Fireman's cottages donated to the brave firemen who saved the town in some horrendous fire. The tradition is that each year more are built and given to the force who then choose by lottery who is to have them.  They then have a lease for life and are passed down through the generations. Incidentally the main Fire Station is also a landmark since a new one has been built out of town.
   Those of you who remember the Cornish Painted Cows will recognise the idea with these Lions. The town was hosting an Island wide student competition (Art, Sport, Fashion et al.) and instant marquees were being erected for food and drink which would be available in the evening together with a BIG party.

 Serralles Castle

 We managed to escape before the town center was closed to traffic and visited the Serralles Castle and grounds, the Japanese Gardens and the new lighthouse, finally we stopped at the waterfront to watch the sunset. Along the ‘La Guanchia board walk’ there was a small bay with huge Tarpon in the water. As we watched them flocks of Pelicans flew in—totally oblivious to us viewing.
  The rest of the week was mostly boat/house work but we did get along to the Friday evening BBQ again and made a few more friends in the process.  Sunday we had sundowners aboard ‘Flawless ‘D’ with Kat & Jim whom we had last seen in Trinidad.
  Monday we were up early had a brilliant sail to Monkey Island where we anchored in 3m of water.  First sight was of a mammoth Turtle and two Dolphins.  This shortly followed by Rhesus monkeys which have their home on the island.  The signs say no feeding the Monkeys and no landing on the Island either.  Sundowners time was spent watching closely for any monkey business and the sea birds roosting.  Bliss.

Puerto Rico

A Baby Pelican!

Monday we waved goodbye & Fair Winds to Melvin and her crew.
Wednesday we hired a car from Sydney again and drove up into the mountains.  The roads were hairpin bends with large lorries coming from the other direction on our side of the road.  Our first stop was at a food stand for brunch then onto the Caguana Indian Ceremonial grounds.

Ancient Petroglyphs

  We were told about the ancient ball or ‘Batey’ parks by the on site historian. Around the ballparks there were many stones with petroglyphs painted on them This really ought to be a WH Site !

 Next stop some equally—if even older – Rio Camay limestone cave Park at the top of a mountain range.  These felt far older than any which we have visited in South Africa (Cango) or New Zealand (Waitimo).

On the trip home we detoured to visit ’Cascada Les Gerzas’ some waterfalls and pools.  Finally back to the anchorage for a welcome meal at the marina restaurant.

Isla de Culebrita

 Just a short sail but plagued with many motor-launches all going the same way!  Fortunately we picked up a buoy since the small craft had to throw an anchor ashore—they had no tender. ’Melvin’ arrived later and we all enjoyed crystal clear azure waters a cooling breeze and pleasant company.  Malcolm had to hike up the hill to the old lighthouse.  It was built in 1880 (so who did the census?) Anyway it is a ruin and a new one has been built. He also rowed across Tortuga beach to the Jacuzzis, an area of boulder filled pools which are frequently filled with water which percolates through from the northeast coast.
  From here we sailed to Isla Vieques just 25 Km away.  We first looked at Puerto Mosquito but since it was shallow and unprotected turned back for Peurto Ferrol.  It too was shallow but we safely anchored in 3m of water which was strongly bio-luminescent after dark. The more you moved about the great the disturbance and light show.  Sorry no pictures it just didn’t show up.
   Next day was an even shorter sail after we went slightly aground while trying to navigate out of the shallow bay. Just 2 miles to Ensenada Sun Bay where we picked up a buoy, had a quick swim to cool off , lunch, then into town for fresh vegetables etc.
  The Spanish invaders called Vieques and her smaller islands the Useless Islands and the pirates/British called it ‘Crab Island' due to the many crabs.  Once the Spanish arrived they conquered and enslaved the local Tainos , the Island then being taken into Puerto Rico.    Further landings were made by the English, French and Dutch but all were seen off by the Puerto Rican Spaniards. The annexation occurred in 1854 when Governor Don Teofilo Jaime LeGuillo began to build a fort.  The Island then saw a boost to industry as sugar mills were set up and run by black slaves.

  1898 the United States arrived in the form of the gunboat ‘Yale’.  The Fort commander told Lt Cont that he must fire a cannon before surrendering.  ‘41 the US Navy arrived and purchased 2/3 of the Island to use for ordinance.  This meant plenty of jobs in construction and people travelled from all the neighbouring islands to work.  Of course when the boom had finished the locals had no more work so were relocated to San Croix.  Fortunately for us the Americans have recently given up using their patch for bombardment although there are signs for divers to beware of unexploded bombs!  Unemployment is still high and tourism is in its infancy, this is all good for us blue-water sailors who can enjoy a relatively unspoilt Island.  We anchored at Esmerelda the small town on the West Coast.

 The pilot book said that a ‘Publico’/Taxi would cost $2 one way,  the guy we asked as to where the bus stop was said it would cost $3 his friends waved down another driver who was taking a couple to the ferry and he charged us $5 each on the outward journey and $6 on the return because he only had the pair of us aboard! 

   While in Isobel Seconda we walked to the light-house after a great breakfast on the way.  Then to the Fort/Museum which seems only to have ever been a jail for slaves and miscreants.  Besides some superb photography and art work it also showed artefacts from Archaeological digs.   On our way out we met the 3 chaps we had seen yesterday sailing into Sun Bay on a days cruise, how amazing! I promised to send them the snap I had taken of them all sailing.  After tea we sailed for Green Beach –just a few miles further on since it was ‘round the corner’ and less bumpy.  I made Beef Pepperpot and we watched the bioluminescence by candle-light  The alaarm was set for early next morning when we sailed off the anchorage for Boca del Infierno just 33 Km nearer to our destination. 

No sooner had we anchored at Cayos de Caribes when ‘Loonsong’ called us up and told us of a BBQ tomorrow evening.  The night was so peaceful, hardly a movement aboard ‘Piano’ refreshed we sailed the last 3 Km for Salinas.  This was all inside the reef which lays around the coast, so it was a speedy broad reach most of the way only stopping to stow the sails and motor into the bay.

Salinas—Puerto Rico 13th April 2012 

  

Julie & Malcolm

On arrival we motored to find ‘Melvin’ and not to be disappointed there was Julie on deck waving as though we hadn’t seen them! She came across and told us that we needed to order food for the BBQ so we dropped everything and went ashore to do so—and to check into the new customs area.  Although not staying at the marina the receptionist was very helpful and friendly.  The BBQ was awesome, 2 huge pork ribs, 2 pieces of chicken and sausage plus chips! (with a chocolate strawberry for afters)  We caught up with the missed days on ‘Melvin’ they had stopped to anchor at Monkey Island and had already found the free wi-fi ashore.

  Over coffee and cake we tried to do emails but it started to rain which put paid to that as the awning leaked too badly. The roads were awash when we walked back.  During the afternoon we played Mexican Train Dominoes.  Oh I forgot to say that the coolant has been disappearing from the reservoir for the generator and Malcolm has been trying to locate the leak.  He hasn’t found it yet but has found a leak in the salt water pump so it looks like a marina stop soon.

On Sunday we shared a car with ’Melvin’ and drove to San Juan for a sight-seeing day. From Salinas we travelled on the 52 and continued as far as the old town. We began along a board walk towards the Fort of San Felipe del Morro when we arrived at the town gate there was a notice to say the board walk was under refurbishment until later this year.  Not to be thwarted we continued through city across the green park areas before the Fort. There were many families flying kites in the brisk wind.  San Felipe del Morro is run by the Parks department so has an interpretive centre and re-enactments to see which explain the history of the fort.  We were fortunate enough to see demonstrations of a cannon and an old rifle being fired. After a short stop for light refreshments we sauntered to San Cristobel another more recent addition which is even more secure between the fortifications the Island has been safe from all invaders , I mean, Francis Drake, Abercromby, various Dutch and French soldiers until the Americans invaded c 1898. We continued back to the car via some delightful ‘Calla’s interspersed with ‘Plaza’s and fountains.  So tempting we stopped again for coffee and more cakes!

 See Picasa for snaps. Unfortunately, this late afternoon stop meant that we caught the evening traffic in town and it took over an hour to leave the car park !! We came to the conclusion that it is a National pastime to promenade on a Sunday evening. This meant that our planned drive back on the more scenic route had to be abandoned.

Culebra

The sail to Culebra

  We set full sail for Culebra and the winds held good for the first half of the trip dying to nothing as we approached the harbour at Ensenda Honda.  Just off the entrance there is a long reef which we book-marked for snorkelling later.  We anchored near the main town and then had tea and cake.
  Next morning we went ashore to check in at the airport.  (quite a walk)  We had a bit of a wait as there was a plane due in.  There were the usual forms to fill in including one for food.  I established that they didn’t want the contents of the freezer nor any canned goods just fresh food, wine and tobacco. They were by far the friendliest customs guys, giving us advice on the best place to eat and the quietist beaches. It only costs a few dollars to take a ferry to Puerto Rico by ferry—as cheap as a bus ride to the tourist beach. They also gave us a cruising permit for the whole of the U.S.A. ! This means that all we need do for other US ports is phone and tell them our cruising number and that we have arrived—so no need to fill out more forms. Great eh…
  Back aboard ‘Piano’ for coffee and lunch before heading off to the reef for the afternoons entertainment.  We picked a buoy and jumped in.  The first thing I saw was a Ray chilling out on the sea-floor! So I had to be quick with the camera to get the shot before it swam away.  Next a conch shell started moving and on further observation I saw it was quite a big  hermit crab.  Plenty of other shoals of brightly coloured fish so we were worn out by the time we got back to ’Piano’ for sundowners and dinner.
  The following day we snorkelled on the other side of the island at three different locations each with it’s own microcosm of aquatic life.
  ‘Melvin’ arrived later on with a bottle and bites so we caught up on their sail over and arranged to join them for a hike to the beach the following day.  Flamenco Beach is about 3 miles from the anchorage so we had a decent walk there.  Most of the holiday makers had used the bus.  The beach was busy but not too overcrowded. There was plenty of surf and quite a strong current but it was great fun.
  The Island is inhabited by about 2,000 people but this is greatly topped by the many daytime visitors by small plane and the ferry from Puerto Rico.  The quaint town is set up fro all types of sailing vessel as we soon found out.  It was Easter and the whole country came out in anything that floated to visit a beach and chill out.  Internet was excellent this being a small island it is covered by the town of Dewey (some of the older inhabitants still call it Pueblo Viejo.) After stocking up with what little groceries were available we sailed to Isla de Culebrita for the holiday.

St Thomas—Charlotte Amelie

   On the second day at Buck Reef Island our friends Julie Terry & Owen called round to say hi and ended up staying to dinner. We said cheers to them at coffee the next day then left Christmas Cove and sailed to Charlotte Amelie, St Thomas, very windy on arrival 7 knots. Wind increased at sundown.  The anchor held well and we can understand why Edward Teach (Blackbeard) considered this a safe harbour.  It is almost totally enclosed!
  After the formalities we had a sightseeing tour.  This involved looking at the various cruise liner shops selling duty free goods and going up 99 steps to Blackbeards tower.
On the way up we had a tour around the amber museum (See snaps on Picasa) and this dinosaur growled as we went past!

and various residences which have been preserved in tact.  Had we known it there were 3 pools to swim in we'd have taken our cozzies!.  At the top a restaurant and a rum distillery, very near the final climb to the top of the tower.
On the way we passed bronze statues for most of the notorious pirates
How about this one for a Johnny Depp look alike...

  We continued—the next day after saying hello to ’Mervyn’ again and being invited round to dinner with them this time.– to look around the French quarter.
  We also caught up with 'Blackthorn Lady'  (Ian & Jacqui) and ended up being shown the best place for free wi fi , which was a bar called the 'Doghouse'
  Since there was little in the way of wind we all decided to stay on for the Sunday and have a game of Mexican Dominoes aboard Mervyn it lasted 5 hours including a short stop for lunch.  We ajourned for sundowners aboard 'Piano' and I rustled up some spag bog for supper.
  Monday after a quick shop we set off for Culebra but that's for the next installment...