25th May Grenada

The sail to Grenada was ace! We averaged 6 knots and did 7.5 quite a bit too. We berthed at Port Louis Marina in time for Tea.  It is a very up-market marina with pool, private beach, de-luxe showers, free broadband wi-fi, TV, and the staff and security guys are wonderfully helpful.
  As soon as we are hooked up to the internet we get an email from Marie & Jean that they are moored opposite at the yacht club.
27th May. A short walk into St Georges for some cash and we meet Marie & Jean on their way home, so we suggest sundowners later.  The rest of the day is spent around the pool and shopping for vegetables.
28th May, We accompany Marie & Jean to the beach at Grand Anse  for a picnic lunch.  All goes well until after lunch and we see a black cloud so make a dash for home.  Unfortunately for them Marie & Jean almost loose their outboard when the glue detaches the holding board from the dinghy! He managed to hold onto it AND nurse the inflatable home in one piece well done to him of course we have already got home and don’t know of the mishap until the next day.
29th May.  A major shopping expedition to Grand Anse where there is an American Supermarket.  In the foyer are some ladies selling home made cookies etc—just like the W.I. Producers at home!  They turned out to be American ex pats and were doing quite a trade.  Well we filled a trolley and managed to cram it all into the largest of our rucksacks each carrying bags too.  Luckily we were spotted by a bus which pulled up and waited for us to board.  We used a boat trolley back at the marina! Then chilled out by the pool for the remainder of the day. There was no rain until after bedtime and only then enough to fill the solar shower.
30th May. A Sunday, generally grey and drizzely so we decide to go to the Grand E’tang for a nature walk, except the buses are not as frequent as during the week so we give up and decide to do Fort George—a 10 minute walk up hill, when we arrive it too is closed (note to self chill out on a Sunday– or go shopping) so we return to ‘Piano’ and I make a cake and bread, while Malcolm cleans the water filter and the sink pipes.  It all smells lovely now.
31st May. (Holiday in UK) Up early and took several buses through Grenville (where we had lunch Grenadan style) to the Belmont Estate which is a coffee and Chocolate grower and producer.  We went with Marie and Jean who had been before and recommended it.  The guided tour was superb given by Kelly, who preferred to do tours than work at the process to make the chocolate ready for manufacturing up to 80% cocoa solids.   After picking the pods the beans are emptied into a trough to remove extraneous vegetable matter, stones leaves etc.  They are then piled into a wooden compost box looking place and covered with banana leaves to insulate them while they ferment for 8 days.  Then they are spread out to dry onto large trays and covered with hoods rather like they use at Wimbledon.  The ladies shuffle through the beans, barefooted, to turn them over so that they dry evenly.  If they are to be exported they are then polished otherwise they go straight for roasting and processing into chocolate.  Yes we tasted the samples 60% and 80% yum yum.  We also had a look around the museum and grounds.
1st, June—a short sail around to Prickley Bay

Union Island

Once again a fast sail and I helmed all the way ! - well it was only a couple of hours…  A special treat since we have no fresh vegetables aboard we eat ashore. Red Snapper and unusual veg plus rice and coleslaw and Real CHIPS!!!
17th May, Shopping in the quaint village of Clifton.  It is quiet and provincial. but, so colourful! Also very friendly.  The weather being more like I would have expected a tropical summers day we decide to go snorkelling on the reef which encloses the bay. ( See images in picasa) The water is soo clear! It looks as though there may have been some catastrophe the sea floor looks damaged with signs of regrowth and still plenty of colourful fish.  The fauna included—the biggest Diadem sea urchin I have ever seen a small lobster and a sea fan (I think).
18th May, Went ashore early to catch the coolest weather of the day. Walked to Ashton where I found a shady spot to wait while Malcolm walked across to Chatham Bay and the surrounding area.  Back aboard ’Piano’ by 12 noon for late coffee and then lunch.   Most people have left the anchorage so we signed out of the Grenadines and motored round to Chatham Bay to anchor in a peaceful spot.   Went ashore for a beer where we met Jeffrey Osborne –King who has started a beach resort with a pool, restaurant, and bar.  He has moorings and offers a free meal to any captain bringing his guests ashore.  He also offers water from his desalination plant even if you only have a beer!  Look out for him in Doyles’ next Cruising book, I’m sure he will be in it. 
19th May, Short sail to Carriacou, where we anchored near ‘Felice’ (Andy & Pam) quick trip into town for some basics then a swim.
20th May, the anchor would not hold even after 4 attempts so we moved to a more sandy spot,  however this took all day so only  managed to bake a cake and do some washing!
21st May, Finally managed to get ashore and took a bus to Gun Point from where we hiked towards Windward, detouring down to Watering Bay via a conch lined path.  Naturally when we get to the water we are on our own at a blissful beach!  Back to the road and onto Windward-this is where the locals build boats on the shore by eye! They can win races against modern yachts too.
Carriacou is the least most tourist disrupted Island we have been to so far. Yes there are supermarkets and fruit & veg vendors but all very low key.
  There being no need to sit in the wind we decide to sit at a buoy off Sandy Island.  This is perfect, no ferry wash and a gorgeous sandy beach to look out onto. Terns, Black-headed gulls, Frigate birds and a couple of Pelicans wheel about overhead.  The snorkelling is by far the best so far and a welcome break from the baking sun.
23rd May, we motor round to Tyrell Bay.  Here there is a thriving yacht community some of who live here permanently (no wonder!)  There are maybe 40 yachts anchored peacefully here in a huge expanse of water.  Plus we have a resident fish happily digging around the anchor chain-sorry I’ve no idea what it is.
24th May , A quiet day snorkelling dare I say it the best yet! -apart from some invisible stingy things in the water -ouch.  The veg situation is non-existent apart from cans leftover from the Atlantic Crossing so we need to travel to Grenada tomorrow for some real shops.

The Grenadines May 2011

  We sail into Britannia Bay, Mustique and settle on a mooring for $200EC for 3, nights then have lunch.  Malcolm goes snorkelling.
Next day we walk the southern end of the Island, via a beach path, skirting a patch of land called Old Plantation, which has up-market picnic spots.  Some even have a built in BBQ for use.  There is no charge, but you are asked to book if you want to use one.  Next we wend our way though the end of the nature reserve.  This is a natural salt pond, with interpretive boards.  There are many birds and lizards too.  Now we hike uphill (but not too steep) towards Deep Bay.  On the way we see Tortoises! Next is Obsidian Bay but not sufficiently shady for lunch so we press on and find a delightful probably Black Sand Bay, which we have to ourselves.  It has too many waves to swim or snorkel so we just chill out and cool off in the surf.  After lunch we continue back to Britannia Bay for a glass of ice cold water or three.   We anchor Crescendo in sand –oops it’s become detached from the boat...  I try diving for it but it’s too deep for me so I suggest a quick dive with scuba gear. A big event to don all the dive gear for my first solo dive! YES I successfully retrieved the lost anchor.  Then we go snorkelling.  Spectacular over a reef with many kinds of fish.
 We invite Marie and Jon Jack across for sundowners and they respond by asking us over the following evening.
Day 2 Britannia Bay.
  Another hike ashore, this time though the Lovell village and up to the communication tower.  Passing the Post office ,school and Police Station We stop at a marvellous library So cool with it’s air conditioning and get a map.  Then onto Endeavour Bay where we stop for a cool drink and watch the tourists being pampered by the waiters.  Now we have a map with all the names of the houses, most with signs to deter tourists from wandering in.  We next find ’L’Ansecoy Bay’ for another swim.  More Tortoises and a short walk brings us back to Britannia Bay and completes our first tour of Mustique.

11th May Mustique to Canouan

This just a short sail of maybe 4 hours. Jean Jacques and Marie-Christine are away before us but end up at the same anchorage.
We go ashore for a few groceries and then with a small lunch hike across the island to it’s eastern side where there is a reef to snorkel. When we get there the beach is not so wonderful and the sea state is not good for snorkelling.  We eat lunch and then Malcolm sets off to do some more hill hiking and I return to Charleston Bay where there is a perfect spot under a tree and crystal clear blue azure water. A gentle breeze and this is my idea of paradise!  The only interruption is a small yellow crab who comes to investigate the stranger in his territory.  We eye each other for a couple of minutes and then he runs for home.
Back aboard for afternoon tea and we see a turtle or two in the water.
  That evening we end up ashore at the Pirate Cove Bar with Jean & Marie for sundowners. Mine is a ‘Canouan Sunset’ - and looks rather like a Tequila Sunset but is made instead with Caribbean White Rum.

13th May Canouan to the Tobago Keys.

Even shorter just 3 hours anchor to anchor. It’s surprising how exhilarating this fast sailing is, Malcolm slept for the rest of the afternoon while I finished my book and updated the blog story ready for uploading.  Once again the water is not so wonderful for snorkelling and there is quite a wind blowing for fun in the water.  I’ll wait and see what tomorrow brings before I take any photos.
14th May Tobago Keys
  Yes I’m glad that I waited! The boat boy delivered croissants at 8.30 First thing we moved ‘Piano’ from her mooring buoy 50 yards to the right nicely at anchor. We took ‘Crescendo’ of to another mooring buoy (no charge) so that we could snorkel. The water was still a bit rough but we persevered and it was well worth it. In some places the coral? Or seaweed colonies grow almost to the surface.  Fish of all colour and description abound along with the old familiars like Parrotfish and Napoleon fish.  Needless to say we had a large appetite for the croissants with coffee.
   Suitably filled we set off again this time for the Nature Reserve.  Imagine the Azure sea, white sand and green pebbles. (probably Malachite).  There is a signboard with do’s and don’ts in English so other Nationalities probably get caught.  A walk around the small Island acquaints us with many Iguanas and birds, not to mention the most idyllic views out to sea.

  On the way back to ‘Piano’ we see more turtles which I think are possibly Green Sea Turtles since they are so big.  Now is when I get the camera out for some new desk top wallpaper….

15th May, Sunday a day of rest for the croissant man and the park keepers who collect money! The morning spent cleaning shoes and the coat locker.  After coffee snorkelling, then lunch bake a chocolate cake but little to fill it with so I use up the honey which is almost all sugar so needs warming up.  More snorkelling, tea, & chilling out.
16th May, Monday the nicest day here yet. We decide to take ‘Piano’ to the deserted Island which we have been looking out onto. Take a walk around it and then sail on to Union Island. 

Passage to Bequia 2nd May 2011.

Our friends aboard Mai Tia are still here at Rodney Bay Marina! So some catching up to do. First some book swaps then a look at their DVD collection to transfer to our hard drive.  Vincent comes back to look at the new inverter and suggests that his boss John has a look.  John is up on electrical/computer problems and it certainly looks as through there is a software problem.  He phones the team in the USA (who are almost the same time zone as us and speak our language and they suggest that we give the inverter a software update, this is tried but because it has a lower number it thinks that it is being downgraded so we have to convince it to take what we are trying to give it.
  This achieved (a couple of days later) and it seems to be working fine! Thanks John! Crescendo is repaired and brought home they have done a grand job glueing all the loose seams down too Thanks here to Francis and his team.  So just a few odd items and we are ready for the sail to Bequia.  I learn from various friends that we have missed the wedding of the century, but I catch up by watching the photos of who was there and the fashions on the web.
  Saturday we pay the Marina and sign out with customs to lay at anchor prior to sailing down to Vieux Fort.
  Sunday after loading Crescendo to first class seating we slipped for Vieux Fort.  This turned out to be slow (we motor-sailed against adverse currents) and wet (I used my new foulies for the first time!).  We almost stopped at Soufrière  again in despair but finally made it to the anchorage just after sundown.
  Monday, we set off from Vieux Fort for Bequia – up at 5 o’clock in the morning! just in case we have flukey winds and need the extra daylight to get there.  It turned out to be a fast beam reach with rain showers and Dolphin sightings so we got in at 14.40 in time for tea.  As dusk drew in so did the rain.  We are almost self sufficient in water with our Bimini drains catching up to 80L in a rainstorm.
  Tuesday 3rd May.  We hit Port Elizabeth in full sun and after a trip to the bank we head out to find a local diver to clean the barnacles from the hull.  Malcolm suspects that the through the hull holes are possibly being blocked which might account for the log reader intermittently stopping and the Yanmar trying to overheat on full power.  The owner of the dive shop recommended Fitzy and we managed to secure his services during the afternoon.  We celebrated with a Latte at Gingerbreads and happened to see Andy (from Felice) in his tender. Fitzy arrived as the heavens opened and got to work. We are now nice and clean again (just 1 1/2 hours with scuba gear). Mental note not to sit around idling in the Caribbean as the barnacles just love to grow in these warm waters. I made some more Ciabatta and cleaned the spray hood windows to keep myself busy.
Wednesday.  Port Elizabeth is the only town on the Island and seems very friendly probably because the ‘Yachties’ are a regular form of income to them.  The water is clear and blue until rainwater run-off clouds it to brown.  There looks to be good diving here and plenty of walks if we have time and inclination next year maybe.
Next day we move to Friendship Bay where we hope that it will be less rolly. Some hope! However a hike ashore is pleasant and we see the chap who sold us a crate of beer at wholesale prices.  He is mending his car but has time to wish us a good day. During the afternoon a Spanish sailor swims across to invite us for sundowners.  When we arrive we find that there are 7 aboard a charter boat and they have taken various holidays together over the years.  There week is almost up so we leave them to finish the liquor aboard.  They up anchor and are away before us in the morning.  We settle ‘Cresendo’ in her bunk and slip for Mustique a mere 7 Nm away.