Sevilla

Seville Cathedral, declared a World Heritage Site by the UNESCO. It was built on the location of the High Mosque of Seville, demolished in the 15th century, and for many centuries was the biggest religious monument in all of Christendom. It contains five aisles of Gothic style with a large transept, site of the Main Chapel, a construction which boasts a magnificent altarpiece and a Plateresque Grill. The Cathedral was designed by Alonso Martínez, Simón de Colonia and Juan Gil de Ontañón. The works were finished off in 1506, with a Plateresque Royal Chapel in the temple's sanctuary, later used as the place of burial of Fernando III el Santo and his son, Alfonso X el Sabio. The city's patron saint, Virgen de los Reyes, presides over the altar. The Cathedral also houses the Chapel of the Virgen de la Antigua, a construction of important Colombian influences, the Sepulchre of Christopher Columbus, a choir with spectacular Mudejar stalls and exuberant Baroque organ boxes.
The Cathedral Museum contains works by great painters. codexes and choir books, and ornaments and a sumptuous collection of gold work. Bordering the Cathedral are remnants of the old mosque, the Patio de Los Naranjos (Patio of the Orange Trees) and the
Giralda, the city's most prominent monument. Built on a foundation of Roman stones carried from Itálica, it was continued in brick by the Almohades, who decorated the façades with sebka work and poly-lobed horseshoe windows. The tower, a later Christian work, is crowned with a spectacular Renaissance bell shaft. We recommend climbing to the top to contemplate the splendid view of the city from the Giralda See image in Sevilla Folder

Indies Archives built in times of Felipe II, declared a World Heritage Site by the UNESCO. A Truly impressive building which began life as a trading centre then a tenement building and now the ‘National Archives’ which has allowed it to be opened to the visiting public. It had a display of ancient Pirates which although had no English translation was superb. With much original papers from the times (1500’s etc) on display together with artefacts from the same time frame.
See image in Sevilla Folder

Real Alcazar (one of the oldest royal residences in Europe), declared a World Heritage Site by the UNESCO. This same location has been occupied by a series of different buildings a Roman acropolis, a Paleochristian Basilica, different Visigothic buildings, a Moorish castle, and the first Moorish Fortress of the 9th century. Pedro I built the Mudejar palace, a mixture of Gothic elements with Mudejar plaster and offer work. Especially interesting are the Patio de la Montería (Hunting Patio), the Patio de las Doncellas (Maidens Patio), the Patio de las Muñecas (Dolls Patio) and the impressive Salón de los Embajadores (Ambassador's Hall), with its huge golden Cupola of the mid-15th century. Next to the Mudejar palace stands the Palace of Carlos V, adjacent to the Jardines del Alcazar of Moorish inspiration with Renaissance and Romantic elements.

As impressive was the Iglesia de El Salvador a Baroque Collegiate Church which, was built on the site of a Roman –Visigothic basilica dating from AD 711. Back into the peaceful streets of the Barrio Santa Cruz, an old Jewish neighbourhood. From this point, Vida street leads to the Alley del Agua (Water), bordering the walls of the Alcázar. A large number of typical popular buildings line this street, protected by iron gates which open onto patios profusely decorated with flowers. The street leads into the Square of Santa Cruz, presided over by the Cross of the Cerrajería (locksmith's), which connects the neighbourhood with the Murillo Gardens. Leaving this square along Santa Teresa street we arrive at the Convent of San José, a 17th century building. Continuing along the streets López de Rueda and Reinoso, we arrive in the Square of Los Venerables, and the Hospital de Los Venerables Sacerdotes, a large Baroque building founded in 1675 as an asylum for priests. It contains the frescoes painted by Valdés Leal and by his son.
The Hospital de los Venerables is now used for art exhibitions. Gloria street leads to the typical Square of Doña Elvira, and then to the Square of the Alianza, adjacent to the Alcázar walls. Further along, Gloria street connects with Mateos Gagos street, full of lively bars and taverns. Continuing along, Abades street which connects with Bamberg street, here are Roman columns the remains of a temple dedicated to Mercury, which gives the street the name of Mármoles (Marble).

The square of Santa María La Blanca contains the 18th century façade of the Palace of Altamira. To one side, the Church of Santa María La Blanca, was built over the remains of an old synagogue. The interior was redecorated in the 17th century with some of the most creative Baroque plaster work anywhere in Seville, the work of the Borja brothers. Archeros street leads to the Parish Church of San Bartolomé. Nearby, on Levíes street, stands the Palace of Mañara, thehome of Miguel de Mañara, model for Don Juan Tenorio, famous character of world
literature. It is an impressive Renaissance building with an interesting façade bearing fresco paintings which imitate brick surfaces.
Continuing on to the Plaza de las Mercedarias and then along to the Vidrio street, the visitor reaches the Parish Church of San Esteban, Mudejar building of the late 14th century with interesting, early 15th-century Gothic doorways.
This was enough for the day—needless to say we had dinner (Spanish Paella) before the bus trip home.
Day 2
The House of Pilatos
This was a pay to view site but well worth it. Interesting for its blend of Gothic, Mudejar, Italian Renaissance and classic elements. It is the seat of the present Duchess of Medina whatever and her living area is not on view. However, there were quite a few good paintings and the marketry, plaster work and tile work (bordering on mosaics) were all very impressive. We had a packed lunch in the cool shade of the gardens before hitting the streets again.
From the square of Pilatos we continued along Águilas street. On its left-hand side was the Convent of Santa María de Jesús . Mudejar style of the early 16th century. Further along Rodrigo Marín street, we skirted the side of the Church of San Ildefonso one of the few neoclassical constructions of Seville, built in the 18th-century with an interesting main façade and two towers. Next was a bus ride to the Feria!

Apart from Easter this is the other big event in Sevilla - the Feria de Abril (April Fair). It was created in the mid-19th century as an agricultural and cattle fair. Slowly it turned into a fair for the celebration of the Andalusian countryside within the city. For a couple of months Sevillians work to assemble an artificial city of canvass booths, lights and small lanterns. It covers an area comparable with Blackbush market (for those who know it) The celebration begins with a procession to the fair - ground. Everyone who still has a trap goes by 1,2,4 or even 5 horse– drawn trap, which has been cleaned and polished to within an inch of it’s life. The inhabitants of Sevilla then flock to the event. Men are dressed in short jackets, boots and chaps, the traditional Spanish riding gear—or otherwise smart black suits with those ‘panama’ styled hats and the women wearing colourful dresses with ruffles. For the next few days all who have been invited to an hospitality tent make their way (on foot) carrying bags of waterbottles. Of course the ladies have their highest stiletto shoes on and probably suffer since the party may go on until six the next morning! A board at the gate lists the names of families and where they are to be found. You can only join their tent if you are invited and then have to get past the bouncer at the entrance. Meanwhile the method of moving around from tent to tent is by carriage or shanks pony. More images on Picasa. And a footnote: it was 32º C and full sun the day we were there! We won’t mention the last train home—but suffice it to say we slept in the next day!

We Fixed it!

No picture but suffice it to say that after waiting round all morning we gave up on the marina mechanic and Malcolm removed the offending item and replaced it with the reconditioned (but noisey) spare. There were a few choice words from himself since it was all done upside down and undernearth the engine but after the struggle it WORKS and is not very noisey at all!
So off we went to settle up withthe Marina ,cleared the decks ready for sailing and off we went to Chipiona it was a marvellous sail and we arrived early evening no births available til today so we had dinner and retired.
Did a bike tour of Chipiona this morning and came out to book a berth at Puerto Gelves but need an English speaker so will have to have another try tomorrow. From there we will be able to do Seville! so watch this space.Generally good weather while in Chipiona most suitable for sightseeing, it was from here that we took the bus to Sevilla where there are no less that three World Heritage sites to be visited I have copied the details from the tourist guide to give an idea. Just imagine the aching feet which accompany a weary traveller. All the other sights should be labelled in the Sevilla folder on Picasa. Let me know if I’ve got any wrong please

The Guardiana April

Maundy Thursday opened with bright sunshine (and a bit of a chill northerly breeze) We left the Marina at low tide (springs) and motored. Well why pay for a ‘riber’ trip when you can do your own ? All very pleasant since not many other boats around and plenty of twitching to be done.

Plenty of images on Picasa so remember to have a look.
Anchored in the middle off Al Coutim and went ashore a local band was playing in the street 3 accordions, a trumpet and a couple of drums. Mike was already alongside and said “Hi” as we passed, he told us about a beach recently made up a side branch of the river so off we went in search, needless to say I was happy to get an afternoons sunbathing in to sort out the few lines already growing. Malcolm preferred to have a walk.
Saturday was Grandmothers confectionary day so we had a good look, all very traditional and yummy more music on stage and in the streets, we had a look at the old Castle and the library and after a picnic lunch Malcolm went for another walk and I sat in the sun and read.
Sunday we decided to look at the Spanish side of San Lucar Malcolm had his eye on the highest spot which was another castle so off we went . It turned out to be pretty derelict but offered tremendous views of the surroundings. The only other people we saw were a couple on a BMV touring bike who were from Cashcais and had a holiday cottage just up the river at Pomeroi.
After descending we had a mixed meat and cheese board with salad at a Brasserie and then went up another hill to some windmills.
Monday (7th?) we motored back down to Laranjeiros, just the day since there was a nice cool breeze to take the edge from the HOT SUN!
Tuesday returned to Ayamonte over night.
Wednesday sailed all the way from Ayamonte to Mazagon. It is the first time we have sailed from port to port without resorting to the engine . At one point we even contemplated continuing to Chebiona but as the day went on the wind became fluky so we berthed at Mazagon while our luck was in. Needless to say we celebrated!
Thursday another great day so we slipped early and sailed again for Chebiona. During the afternoon the wind died and we started the engine but within minutes there was a nasty small and funny noise , so it was turned off. Malcolm had undone the engine covers to find the whole compartment thick with smoke—no fire thanks be! Wow now the ‘Fun’ began in earnest. No engine no wind to sail and miles from civilization. We decided to return to Mazagon and had a range of winds from 0-12 knots. This meant that we were back by 6 ish.
As we came closer we radioed the Marina , who obligingly said they could tow us into a birth –hold that moment– a little later a small motorboat came by who turned out to be Customs officials but I thought they were here to tow us they asked what our problem was and said that yes they could tow us. Next a much larger Customs boat came by and to cut a long story short failed to help at all but generally got in the way and took a hit from Piano (who by this time must have been getting upset) I wish I’d had time for the video camera… they knew we were under sail but ignored the fact that we were moving so gaily crossed our bow! And naturally were rammed!
Meanwhile the first two chaps were having a whale of a time trying to attach a line and tow us, if they had any experience they might have achieved their goal but after 20 minutes effort to no avail we persuaded them to let us anchor.
That done they refused a beer but came aboard to do their paperwork. Malcolm then went to check in at the Marina office where he was told that they had no provision for towing boats in !
So back aboard we decided that it would be more comfortable in the marina than at anchor and there was a possible gale on the way. We launched Crescendo and tied her alongside and I provided the power while Malcolm did the harder part of coming alongside and tying up. This was all done in far less time and with no hassle at all. Time for a beer.
Next day we stop by at two Spanish outlets who tell us that they are up to their necks with work and couldn’t help us until June! -at least they were honest! The third said a mechanic would be round by 12.30. We returned to have coffee and a closer look at our problem.
That's it until we know more so take a look at the pictures on Picasa at your leisure.

Villamoura (continued)

We couldn’t resist getting the cycles out and doing some exercise . First trip was along the cliffs towards Albefura but it was tough going and we should have had mountain bikes for the terrain. The following day we had a more leisurely ride through the Park Ambiental stopping at two bird hides and seeing most of the local species including a Purple Swamp Hen (Phorhphyrio phorphyrio or maybe Gallinula chlorpus but I'm not sure since it was too far away!)
We took these long suffering friends out for a sail on the Friday but it was not the best of days (a bit too rolly), that said it was Denise's first ever sail and she loved it.
Malcolm did a coolant change on Saturday and managed to sheer a pipe off which meant another engineer aboard to fix the problem but no spares needed from the Yanmar dealer tee hee. Sunday we visited Faro and Taviera –both were reasonably quiet and well worth a visit if you get to the area.
Tuesday we sailed for Olhao - and got most of the way there without motoring! Being near to the coast it meant we had to look out for fishing buoys and keep clear of the fishing fleet, that done we did see a massive school of Dolphins! When it got to teatime and we still had to navigate the very shallow waters of the estuary we decided to motor the last bit.
Wednesday took the Avon across to Olhao and sauntered around the old town, rather a wet trip back to ‘Piano’ as the weather changed from good sun to yucky rain. Luckily we had taken splash tops so only legs got wet with spray! Nice to have a hot shower to wash off all the salt!
Thursday was also dreary so did some more boat jobs. Friday weather improved sufficiently to take Cescendo to Culatra which is supposed to be a 'nature reserve' It has a small fishing harbour and a jetty for the local ferry out. At low tide most of the shores dry out so we tried up to a beach rope and went exploring. The small town has three 'pastelaria' - where you drink refreshments and a couple of restaurants. The nature trail takes you to the Atlantic beach and long it. Along the strand line were dead fishing buoys, and old ropes also plenty of plastic bottles. We crossed to the landward side and although less breeze the was far more washed up junk. Having said that it may be a management ploy to keep tourists away!
Sunday motor-sailed to Ayamonte, Spain. We needed to berth at high tide so with the wind fluky were quite stressed at not being able to do proper sailing. This was the start of Easter Holy Week so the museums and tourist spots had altered opening times. Due to the festival atmosphere. We stayed up late to watch one of the Religious processions which involved people dressed up with pointy hats looking rather like the Klu Klux Klan trailing around huge floats which had either Jesus or Mary on top surrounded by huge candles and plenty of ‘Gold’ covering it. It must have been quite heavy as there were about twenty odd men underneath carrying it at a very slow pace. Behind came the church band of trumpets flutes and drums. This all carried on until the small hours.
Since our next stop will be up the Rio Guadiana we have unpacked the bikes and were able to take a cycle ride along the coast to look at the beach areas. To the East of Ayamonte are three beaches with their tourist hotels and apartments. It looks as though the recession has hit the area –many are for sale.
Final day in Ayamonte I baked a Simnel cake which turned out rather over cooked but still edible and a couple of Quiches. We found real milk so stocked up (it’s mostly UHT in Spain) and I made chocolate mousse instead of doing Easter Eggs. So the freezer is full and we are ready to hit some anchorages.