Passage to Suriname (The Skippers bit)

Trinidad to Suriname—the Passage 24th-2 November 2011.
After resolving the problems which were immediately apparent after relaunch, we had hoped to be able to leave Crews' Inn marina with everything working but it was not to be. The engine rev counter decided not to regiister anymore and resisted Jean-Jacques efforts to find out what the problem was. Then, on the day before we planned to leave, I discovered that the sensor unit for the log was leaking and, to cap it all, 10 keys on my laptop keyboard stopped working! Eventually, we decided that we weren't going to be able to fix any of these things and so, on Nov 24 we finally left Chaguaramas,  3 months after flying back from England.

We wanted to try out the new anchor and renovated anchor windlass, so first we just motored round to Scotland Bay. What a difference those few miles made – instead of the bustle of Chaguaramas, we were now anchored in a very peaceful, jungle-fringed bay with just a handful of other yachts and hardly any signs of civilisation. All was well with the anchor and windlasss so, after a nice lunch, we set off again, towards Suriname. We had expected to have to motor the 40 miles or so along the north coast of Trinidad and that was indeed the case. Staying fairly close inshore to avoid the adverse current (and actually picking up favourable current!), there was just a gentle breeze from ahead and we didn't even bother putting the mainsail up until well along the coast. While there seemed to be plenty of showers over the island, only the occasional light one extended over the water and the seas were very slight, so it was a pleasant, relaxing first evening. Around midnight, as we rounded the NE corner of Trinidad, the seas became uncomfortable, even thought the wid was only Force 3-4; we had some sail up by now, mainly to steady the motion. Finally, in the early hours we turned the engine off and enjoyed a couple of hours of decent sailing on a close reach towards our destination. The wind soon dropped though, and changed from ENE to ESE. We could no longer sail in the direction we wanted to go, so started motorsailing. We passed a number of uncharted oilrigs, with support vessels buzzing around and also saw a couple of dolphins. While there were some moderately big showers around, on the whole they passed us by and brought no significant wind.. The breeze remained resolutely less than  10 knots from between ESE and SSE, so progress was very slow. In the first  hours we only made about 100 miles towards Suriname and most of that progress was from motoring along the north coast of Trinidad. The next day followed the same pattern, with light winds from ahead. The weather was hot and sunny and while lighning was occasionally visible on the horizon, we had only a very occasional light shower. Just before sunset, there was a good display of tuna jumping, which was something new for us. In the early evening, a fishing boat passed within half a mileand later, the wind picked up to Force 4 and we reefed. In the early hours,the wind dropped back to Force 3-4and while we were occasionally able to get 'PIANO' sailing nicely, it never lasted long and the services of the engine were often engaged. Even so, we were only 89 miles closer to our destination by the end of the day. The painfully slow progress continued for the rest of the trip. The saving grace was that the weather was good – sunny,  hot and dry. In the evenings, lots of lightning was visible on the horizon but the thundery activity was all confined to the distant land. Several seabirds accompanied us for varying distances and we had two large and several small flying fish on deck, as well as a tiny live crab. The only other excitement was having to tack in the middle of the night to avoid a cargo ship which was getting too close.

Eventually, on the evening of Nov 30, the wind gained a slight northerly component and we started making good progress towards our destination, some 30 miles away. It was time to try to engineer our arrival at the Safe Water Mark at the river entrance, in order to take the tide upstream. The ideal time appeared to be 0500 but in the event, our progress was a little slower than estimatedand we didn't get there until 0630. However, this still allowed us to carry favourable current all the way to Domburg and we were doing 7-8 knots over the ground most of the time. The estuary of the river only has a very narrow navigable channel but is well-buoyed, making the passage relatively uneventful. Apart, that is, from when the engine decided to splutter a few times just while we were in the narrowest part of the channel. Luckily, after a few minutes it cured itself and stress levels decreased again. We anchored off the small village of Domburg, some  8 miles above Paramaribo, the capital of Surinam, There were half a dozen other yachts of various nationalities in the anchorage – no Brits though. The passage of  440 miles had taken 160 hours at an average speed made good of just under 2.8 knots. The worst day's progress was just  miles, making it our slowest ever passage by some margin!

Refurbishing the Saloon.

Refurbishing the Saloon.
     This story begins in Peakes yard where we need protection from the sun, I look around for a suitably priced canvas worker.  This is for some new hatch covers to match /blend with the Bimini.  Kay came to take measurements and gave me a reasonable quote, then returned a week later with the goods.  A nice new set of hatch covers to replace the now well weathered and now mouldy ones I had made in the Azores.  I was so impressed I asked her for a quote to do the Saloon, this agreed we then went to choose and buy the fabric.  Malcolm left the pattern to me and to cut a long story short this is the end picture! Naturally we keep the dust covers over the seats to try and keep them looking new and maybe next year I will have a go at doing these too.

      After the success of the Saloon I bit the bullet and decided to put new curtains up, (and make them myself!) this involved choosing and buying the fabric - soo cheap here only £24 for 8 yards (no metrication here yet). The shop had sales assistants and measurers to check the customers calculations– except he was working in feet & inches and I had measured in centimetres… after he had found a tape measure with both on it he then understood that the curtains I wanted to make were not the usual room size he is used to checking…. Undeterred he was prepared to have a go.  He really wanted to sell me 20 yards but I stressed that I would probably only need 6, we agreed on 8 which gave me room for mistakes and cushions
Anyway, it was a steep learning curve and I’m sure that if any of you sewers  had been around you would have helped me make a better job! at a quick glance they look ok -if home made and not very professional even though I used a template to make them all the same hems etc. Hey ho I'm nearly finished but out of header tape, and all my pins are bent with going through the machine with such a thickness of material.  I broke 8 needles by accident while catching a pin and a rod -stiffener.  Now I have a fellow boater who is going to adapt my machine to take the big packets of non singer needles so that I have a new supply.   Only minor adjustments were needed to sort the sewing machine out and a big THANKS to Ray & Irene (C-Drifters) who spent time helping.  I should also Thank Vicky (Cinnamon Teal) for sorting out the tension for me.  I have now really learnt a great deal about sewing machines—I just need to remember it all.

The Caroni Swamp

      After the two hour drive back from Asa Wrights Nature Reserve we stopped for some sustinence.
  Then armed with a bag of ‘Doubles’ (to eat later) we arrived at the Caroni Swamp and took our places aboard a large flat bottomed boat with a large outboard.  We motored slowly through the swamp stopping to view birds and animals.
The Spectacled Caiman (Caiman crocodilus) which may grow up to about 8 feet (2.4 m) in length shares its habitat in the Caroni Swamp on Trinidad's West coast with the mighty Green Anaconda (Eunectes murinus).

Caiman, are to be found throughout both Trinidad and Tobago in slow moving fresh or brackish water. They are shy creatures and pose no real threat to humans unless intentionally provoked or approached while nesting. It is generally considered that the few records of both the American Crocodile (Crocodylus acutus) as well as the Orinoco Crocodile (Crocodylus intermedius) in the waters of Trinidad and Tobago were, for the most part, waifs from mainland South America. The Caiman is so well camouflaged see if you can spot it on Picasa...
  Just on 17.30 we arrived in the main pool for the influx of many Scarlet Ibis (The National Bird of Trinidad). It was spectacular!

With them arrived White Egrets and Little Blue Herons. To top it all a Rainbow appeared.
  On the drive home of course we stopped for home made ice creams, they really taste good after a hot day out!

Asa Wright’s Nature Center.

      Tuesday morning and not too early we set off on a 2 hour trip to the high mountains to the North of the Island of Trinidad.  We were lucky that the roads were passable.  Quite often if there has been heavy rain this is not the case!  Needless to say Jesse ensured that we didn’t arrive hungry.  He took us for lunch at a carry out on the way.  The food was freshly prepared and VERY tasty.
  On arrival we checked in and were shown to our room. A quick peek out onto the feeding station and we were ready to stretch our legs. After dressing in hiking gear and boots we set of on the ‘Discovery Trail’. We saw Tiger Lizards and Bracket fungi and heard many birds, this wet our appetite for later on.  Back at the center we had tea and pastries while ’Twitching’. I’m sorry to say that the camera does not do justice to the colours and types of bird, no matter I saw most of them.  Those too far away for the lens are still good memories.
  After dressing for dinner we joined the group for cocktails on the veranda. A delicious rum punch.  This was followed by soup and a Caribbean chicken dish with accompanying vegetables and sponge pudding.  Coffee followed and was special in that it was grown and produced on site!  Just as we were settling in for a pleasant evening our Guide Barry came by and told us to prepare for an evening walk to the pool.
  Armed with torches we searched the trees and verges for all manner of wildlife. We even saw the tiny tree frogs which make all the noise at night! I included the Spider which Barry had found earlier and placed on the Veranda, but we saw another sitting in the handrail by the roadside! I’m so pleased that Barry pointed it out before I used the rail!! Other insects included Harvestman, Daddy Longlegs and tadpoles.
  Up early next morning (05.45 for 06.00) and the feeding had begun already! Such a mass of colour! And all the time Barry was keeping a running commentary of names.  Occasionally darting to the telescope to focus on a more distant Toucan or Violaceous Euphonia -Trogan .

I just loved the Purple Honey Creeper  Cyanerpes caeruleus longirostris   Trinidadian Subspecies has a longer bill than mainland form
We were kept busy refocusing our binoculars on each new arrival.
  After a huge breakfast we were taken on an Orientation walk.  This was a history of the center, it’s wildlife, flora &  fauna and it’s birds.  We had a rainstorm on the walk back which continued until lunch and after.  Jesse arrived with our transport so we tore ourselves away from this idyllic site for our next adventure.

October Continued...

Food Glorious Food!
  The other two events were food related! The first was a cooking competition at Peakes and the whole yard was invited.  There were four teams who had to cook a dish for 20 people and to win impress the judges.  The office staff cooked to die for Indian/Caribbean type food and gained first prize. 

The lift out crew did a superb BBQ with kebabs and fish in batter with salad, another team did duck curry with rice  and the only boat team (a professional chef I think) did a beef and carrot stew.
The party went on ’til late…..
  Lastly a small group went to the T & T International Food Festival, which was held at the Stadium.  It was organised by the Ministry of Tourism to promote food and culture.  There were representatives from various tourist boards  France, Mexico, Italy, India, in fact anyone with a vested interest.  Many tents had local foods & drinks to try.  There were two venues to watch professional chefs cook and then sample the dish.Here is Dexter and his keynote dish.

Rather like Ready Steady Cook on TV but imagine each chef describing his home background and love of food too.  If we went again we would have bought a ‘Gourmet Food Ticket’ but once again we left before they started serving.  We did see the very long queues beginning to form as we left.  There were also Steelpan groups and sugar cane stick drummers parading amongst the masses of visitors.  A central stage had more music and traditional dancing to entertain you while you were eating.  We tried many different foods from cheesecake to chocolate liqueur and from spicy dressing to plantain fritters.  There are so many nice and healthy foods here it’s no wonder the people are so happy!  On our way out we passed a group of 6 students welcoming the late arrivals, singing the praises of their country. 

So that was two nights we didn’t have to cook at home –a bonus!
  I’ll just finish on the weeks work update, the batteries are still en route, the Yanmar engine is ‘in progress’ and the Saloon is now finished! Pictures when we are ship shape again I promise!

Divali October 2011

   
Another week has passed and we have made four cultural trips.
Let me set the scene, it is the Hindu Festival of Divali-Light– and for two weeks preparations have been ongoing for the longest night which coincides with the new moon.  First we went to an entertainment evening at which there were Indian clothes ,food, and music.  Accompanying this was some information for visitors on the Hindu Religion how it is the OLDEST in the world and how Hindus should live their lives.  There isn’t one ’GOD’ but quite a few deities which are called on for special occasions (when you are poor, getting married, need some good luck, and so on).  Basically the theme is to live a good life and be nice to those around you and the environment.  So Divali is a celebration of light and it invites the deities into the home to bring prosperity or whatever.
  Our driver Lincoln, helped us to integrate and showed us where the dancing and singing were to take place.  Once in our seats we had a great view of the stage.  The dances were spectacular.  The ancient songs were given a new lease of life by being sung by the current pop stars in town.  To top it all the President of Trinidad & Tobago was welcomed, with his security detail and entourage to give a greeting and pep talk to the audience.  All over the site were people in costume who were performing folk plays and others making music with steel drums.  The current state of emergency meant that we had to leave quite early but it went on ‘til late.  More people were just arriving as we left.

The next event was on the night of Divali and Jesse took us to his local temple and arranged for his ‘priest’ to tell us about the festivities.  We were entertained by the loudest drum players ever.  We were then served with a traditional Divali meal on a banana leaf and it was delicious.  We then walked the streets to view the lights.  The photos in Picasa show little bowls filled with cooking oil and string to make a wick, these lead to the front door to guide the spirits in. The family sit at the gate and offer anyone passing little biscuits, sweets, maybe a drink or a small dish of their food.  We were told to accept anything offered as it would cause offence if we refused.  We were invited into one house for a drink and a bite to eat. The family told us that if it were not for the curfew there would have been firecrackers and fireworks too.  In short it is rather like Christmas lights and firework night rolled into one!

Tuesday 12th October World Heritage Site Trinidad Pitch Lake

   
     Well I have been remiss, partly because the blog site says there have been no visits recently I just wonder who reads the blog.  At least one person who emailed me some home news wondered why there was a lull.  Today I have been shopping and almost drowned in the torrential downpour of Tropical Rain and uploaded the October folder of photos to Picasa, Now to tell of the trip we took to the World Heritage site here in Trinidad (except I can no longer find it listed on the website for World Heritage sites!)
  We set off once again with the intrepid explorer and man about town ‘Jesse’ and the rest of the travellers.  A short drive out to La Brea the village perched on the old shores of the lake.  La Brea actually means Pitch Lake in Spanish since it was they who first discovered it. Sir Francis Drake and other seafaring visitors also stopped by to re caulk their galleons.  Thank goodness we have antifouling to prevent the re-homing of marine animals.  Many of the wooden hulled ships in those days sank due to ships worms eating through the hull rather than by cannon fire during a war.
     It had almost stopped raining when we set off along a short path out onto the Pitch Lake, so I carried my rain coat.  Our guide filled the hike with many facts about the vegetation and geology of the area.  The plant we call ’The Sensitive Plant’ grows wild here and she demonstrated with her umbrella how the leaves fold when touched.  The Pitch Lake lies above the sandstone which is part of the geology of great oil deposits in the area.  The surface is sufficiently solid to support a tractor and JCB which the Asphalt company use to ’mine’ the deposits.  Underneath the surface it becomes more plastic until there is a point at which it becomes liquid and very dangerous.  Before the advent of guides visitors had been known to ’drown’ in the lake.  As you will notice in the picture she managed to find an area where the pitch was bubbling up to the surface and she demonstrated just how liquid it was.  After mining an area to reach the liquid layer that place is left to rest and recover.  As the top is taken away so more rises to take its place.  Once in a while an artefact , tree or bone comes to the surface which may have fallen into the lake thousands of years ago. 
     We hike back to the visitors centre and have a quick look at the interpretive centre but only just have time for a quick look.  Most people (including Jesse) are hungry for lunch so we stop at a café and have ‘Rostis’ or curry in a wrap if you haven’t tried them at home.  Jesse also bought the drinks and a ‘Cutter’ of Beef.  This being the name of a plate of spiced cubes of beef to nibble as an appetizer.  As usual it was all very tasty.
  After lunch we drove back along the southern most road to see the huge industrial areas where crude oil & Gas are stored,  chemical plant where Nitrogen and other such are produced.  We stopped next at a Hindu temple and again at another newer temple which had a large statue of Hanuman a Hindu Deity.  The usual quiz on what we had remembered came as we were almost home and today I tried a delicious pineapple ice cream.

Just to keep you up to date with the ongoing work:
After a week of waiting for good to arrive from America we were inundated with workmen yesterday 17th.  Nathan was back to sand the cockpit now that the caulking has dried, so there is a fine layer of teak dust everywhere (yet to be cleaned)
  The domestic batteries have been fitted but the engine batteries are still to arrive and much re-wiring has been done to remove the now surplus lines.  The electrician was most impressed with the condition of the wires.  We were expecting to have them replaced due to age but he said it was not necessary!  We have the seats back for the saloon but are awaiting the final items seatbacks and mast cover before I show you a picture.
  Today our American Visas arrived- phew so now we can sail into American waters and they can't impound our boat! and we get to visit any American Islands (and the mainland) any time we like.
  Our friends Julie & Terry aboard ‘Mervyn’ have left for Grenada and Willie & Mark ‘Liahona’ have gone too. Having said that there are new people at all the ‘Potluck’ events we go to so plenty of book and DVD swaps to while away the idle moments—if we get any!