Passage to Bequia 2nd May 2011.

Our friends aboard Mai Tia are still here at Rodney Bay Marina! So some catching up to do. First some book swaps then a look at their DVD collection to transfer to our hard drive.  Vincent comes back to look at the new inverter and suggests that his boss John has a look.  John is up on electrical/computer problems and it certainly looks as through there is a software problem.  He phones the team in the USA (who are almost the same time zone as us and speak our language and they suggest that we give the inverter a software update, this is tried but because it has a lower number it thinks that it is being downgraded so we have to convince it to take what we are trying to give it.
  This achieved (a couple of days later) and it seems to be working fine! Thanks John! Crescendo is repaired and brought home they have done a grand job glueing all the loose seams down too Thanks here to Francis and his team.  So just a few odd items and we are ready for the sail to Bequia.  I learn from various friends that we have missed the wedding of the century, but I catch up by watching the photos of who was there and the fashions on the web.
  Saturday we pay the Marina and sign out with customs to lay at anchor prior to sailing down to Vieux Fort.
  Sunday after loading Crescendo to first class seating we slipped for Vieux Fort.  This turned out to be slow (we motor-sailed against adverse currents) and wet (I used my new foulies for the first time!).  We almost stopped at Soufrière  again in despair but finally made it to the anchorage just after sundown.
  Monday, we set off from Vieux Fort for Bequia – up at 5 o’clock in the morning! just in case we have flukey winds and need the extra daylight to get there.  It turned out to be a fast beam reach with rain showers and Dolphin sightings so we got in at 14.40 in time for tea.  As dusk drew in so did the rain.  We are almost self sufficient in water with our Bimini drains catching up to 80L in a rainstorm.
  Tuesday 3rd May.  We hit Port Elizabeth in full sun and after a trip to the bank we head out to find a local diver to clean the barnacles from the hull.  Malcolm suspects that the through the hull holes are possibly being blocked which might account for the log reader intermittently stopping and the Yanmar trying to overheat on full power.  The owner of the dive shop recommended Fitzy and we managed to secure his services during the afternoon.  We celebrated with a Latte at Gingerbreads and happened to see Andy (from Felice) in his tender. Fitzy arrived as the heavens opened and got to work. We are now nice and clean again (just 1 1/2 hours with scuba gear). Mental note not to sit around idling in the Caribbean as the barnacles just love to grow in these warm waters. I made some more Ciabatta and cleaned the spray hood windows to keep myself busy.
Wednesday.  Port Elizabeth is the only town on the Island and seems very friendly probably because the ‘Yachties’ are a regular form of income to them.  The water is clear and blue until rainwater run-off clouds it to brown.  There looks to be good diving here and plenty of walks if we have time and inclination next year maybe.
Next day we move to Friendship Bay where we hope that it will be less rolly. Some hope! However a hike ashore is pleasant and we see the chap who sold us a crate of beer at wholesale prices.  He is mending his car but has time to wish us a good day. During the afternoon a Spanish sailor swims across to invite us for sundowners.  When we arrive we find that there are 7 aboard a charter boat and they have taken various holidays together over the years.  There week is almost up so we leave them to finish the liquor aboard.  They up anchor and are away before us in the morning.  We settle ‘Cresendo’ in her bunk and slip for Mustique a mere 7 Nm away.

April before Easter!

 (Grand Piton is the Farthest one)
Monday, we sailed back to St Lucia from Martinique, a fast run with full sun yippee this is the life!

Tuesday the fun begins, we first ask for Vincent to come around again to give advice, and searched for Prudent the gas fitter, then set off to find a Yamaha mechanic or a main dealer for a new propeller for Crescendo.
  Wednesday Prudent says he will be here tomorrow, and arrives the next day to tell us what we need—he’ll be back later—which ends up being Thursday and a final check on Friday.
Meanwhile Vincent gives good advice about the 80ah charger which Malcolm then rewires only to find that there must have been a power surge which blows a vital component, now we have to wait again either for a repair (unlikely) or a new charger.  On the bright side the new prop has been fitted and tightened with a torque wrench loaned by Les the guy who does the net in the mornings. 
  Having ordered a new 80ah charger which should be here by next week we decide to sail the Eastern coast of St Lucia stopping at anchorages along the way.  Since the rain is getting to us we begin at the farthest end at Vieux Fort.  The days sail was mixed bur quite slow.  Rain gear came out for the helm once or twice and the Iron Horse was given some exercise on the home stretch. By the time we had eaten on Monday evening we were tired and ready for bed.  The rain and the anchor alarum awakened Malcolm so he had a little lie in on Tuesday morning.  More rain that day gave us no incentive to go ashore so we decided to re-grout the bathroom and toilet.
  The day brightened up after lunch so we put some more air into Crescendo and went ashore. 
  During World War II the low lying land at the end of the Island created the ideal location for an American military airport.  This has now been updated and has become the International Airport. The town itself is well off the tourist tracks and so not as well off as Castries.  Having said that it contained all the regular shops and services.  We toured the town and then headed for the ‘Reef’ on Anse de Sables for a Piton or two.  If only the sun had been out! This is the biggest and most undeveloped beach on the Island!  The only concession to sport is a small Kite ‘n surf Centre which also sells the beers.  While we checked emails and watched a Kite-surfer race across to Maria Island and back a few dozen times.  I hope we get a chance to come again next year if the weather is better since this is a nature reserve and has a coral reef around it which is apparently great for snorkelling.
  We were going to set off for Soufrière on Wednesday morning but as it was raining again decided to see what tomorrow is like.
 Thursday, dry overnight but it started raining as we were about to leave.  Not for long though while I made bread it cleared up and we arrived in sunshine again. A small boat came out and told us he would help with picking up a mooring.  As Malcolm was making preparations we sailed straight into the most enormous piece of rope (probably a mooring line from a liner!) Fortunately another 'helper' boat came past and borrowed our snorkels to remove it from the propeller. (40 C$) Soon after the first boat came back for mooring (40C$) next the boat for getting produce  - 2 Tuna steaks and take away the rubbish (45C$) and the fruit & veg vendor (5C$) After lunch and a rest the Reserve warden came by for our mooring fee (54C/1 night or 104C$ for a week).  Seems quite expensive here.
  Malcolm went snorkelling to check the prop and see the wildlife and came back stung by tiny jellyfish—but he said it wasn’t as bad as mosquitoes!
  First trip ashore and we have a pleasant ‘jetty master’ take our lines. He works for Jouloise Plantation Hotel. Making sure that all along the beach runs smoothly.  We ask his advice about seeing the local sights and then have coffee to chew it over. We decide to go for a taxi ride to the Sulphur Springs/drive in volcano and waterfalls.  We are told by the guide that the whole of Soufrière is in the Caldera! Which even runs out under the sea.  This may account for the peculiar eddys which we have seen while sailing by.

Soufrière, (means “Sulphur in the air”) and not only thus but Hydrogen Sulphide too. Our Guide Suzette told us about the geology and morphology of the island and was very knowledgeable on plants too. She told us that this was part of the ‘Drive in Volcano’.  Personally I thought the Sulphur springs were not as impressive as Yellowstone or New Zealand.  Ed our driver then took us to a restaurant in Soufrière where we all had lunch.
 We next visited Piton Waterfall and hot springs. Where I decided to sample the spa facilities.  Luckily I had my bathing cossy with me (unlike Malcolm who took the pictures!) The rest of the afternoon we chilled out on the beach watching as cruise liner tourists got stung by the pesky jelly-fish.
  Sunday Malcolm hiked Grand Piton with his guide Teddy. He started at 6.30 and was back for lunch.
Monday began with an early morning snorkelling session wow what a wonderful assortment of fish and coral fans! Next a move of residence to Soufrière.  Here we were welcomed by Black headed gulls screeching.  We sorted the laptop and rucksacks plus empty petrol can and went into town.  First stop a wi-fi restaurant and yes the new battery charger has arrived at customs. A stroll through Soufrière which used to be St Lucias’ first town and was established by the French in 1746.  It has colonial style architecture and is overshadowed by the majestic Piton Mountains. We were stopped twice by guys wanting to show us around the Island but in both cases we told them all that we had seen so far.  The only thing left was Soufrière itself. We were recommended :  Diamond Falls Botanical Gardens, a 20 minute walk from the town center.  This was the highlight of the town.   Such a range of plants and trees. Slightly further on was Diamond Falls equally spectacular see Picasa. No swimming allowed though.  Next household chores shopping and the gas station then back to ‘Piano’ and a restful afternoon listening to the gulls again.
Tuesday a quick sail back to ‘Rodney Bay Marina’.

Martinique the last of March

Thursday, another tour this time the North East corner, via St Joseph, -a tiny hamlet in the heart of the mountains. Gros Morne—an agricultural area which also makes produce from its yields like rum, fruit juice and sweets.  St Marie  - steeped in Martinique's culture where we found more caterpillars feeding on Allamander leaves.  We ate Croissants here looking out over a pleasant sea view.  Then we continued on through Le Marigot,- a charming flower filled village with an amphitheatre facing the Atlantic Ocean. Le Lorraine— The Kingdom of the banana where they also brew beer.  Basse Pointe,- also noted for Bananas and pineapples. Macouba,- another distillery and a 17th century Church. Finally, Grand Rivière—at the Northern tip of the island and where the road ends.  During our picnic the local catch was being filleted and a dozen pelicans were on patrol nearby.  Our afternoon walk took us along one of the coastal paths towards Mont Pelée.  It may once have been a real road but is both steep and in bad repair but makes a brilliant hiking trail.  30 minutes higher with nice views Malcolm carried on upwards while I chilled out (as usual)
We then started the drive home.  Once getting as far as Le Morne Rouge we decided to take the over-land route through the mountains.  We were rewarded by some tremendous views.
 That just left the rush hour in Fort de France again andsome final shopping before we got home.
  Friday was spent defrosting the freezer again which appears to be only working on one side.  Rather a lot had to be cooked since it had defrosted –such a shame that Caroline and Jack aren’t here to help eat it all!
  Saturday, we tool the bus to the Museum de La Pagerie this being the maiden name of the Empress Josephine wife  of Napoleon Bonaparte.  She started out as an upper working class girl who married into the nobility about the time of the French Revolution.  She had two children (a boy and a girl) to her first husband, who lost his head to the guillotine.  She then came to the notice of a young Napoleon who then married her.  Unfortunately she could only give him daughters so he divorced her for another.  Meanwhile the Pagerie family fell on hard times (after a hurricane) and had to move from their house into the sugary refinery which they owned.  All that remains of the house is the foundations of the kitchen and the ruins of the sugar refinery.  After lunch back aboard we spent the afternoon on the beach.
   Sunday, We took the bus again round to Anse Diamant. The remains of an ancient volcano which earned its’ fame as a strategic stronghold.  The British first conquered it to place guns at its peak and from then on it was the fighting point for many years.  It faces on of the largest beaches in Martinique with coconut and sea grape trees for shade.  On the Southern coast it is open to the Atlantic channel and so has breakers most of the year but we weren’t here for the beach with only an hour and a half before the last bus back (Sunday timetable)  This was sufficient time to have a coffee and pastry. See the small town and a walk along the beach.  The bus ride out through stunning landscapes was well worth the €1.50 fare.

Monday, we sailed back to St Lucia, a fast and pleasant sail, now to see some more technicians...answer your emails and upload images to the Martinique folder and the St Lucia folder (this has taken 4 hours so I do hope you all enjoy it very few comments apart from those who have a Gmail addresses [thanks Robyn])

Trois Islets

Saturday we had Bobby & Jack around for drinks.
Sunday went into town for a dancing display and it didn’t happen so we motored across to Trois Islets after lunch we were reminiscing old friends Jack & Caroline (Flying Fish) when who should motor up….. What a coincidence was that !  They joined us for Sunday dinner and after a long night chewing the cud we decided to hire a car and see the Island with them.
  Monday, after booking a car for the next 3 days, we took a bus to the Coffee & Chocolate Museum.  No-one else was there (it was pouring with rain outside) so we spent quite some time readings though the French ephemera.  I hadn’t realized that both can only grow in the Tropics! (...and in the UK in suitably heated houses)  Coffee certainly grows abundantly and wild here.  Finishing there with a quick look around the fitness center and plant center we than walked a couple of Kilometers to the ‘Poterie’ and Artisans enclave.  Here we were surprised by the originality of the items being made.  We managed to get the same bus driver on the way home who was so impressed that we had trekked in the rain.
  Tuesday, we took Jack & Caroline to the Caravelle Peninsula.  It would have been a spectacular walk if it hadn’t rained from beginning to end!  Even though I had worn waterproofs I was soaked !!!  We all dried out after lunch with a pleasant visit to the Clement Rhum Distillary.  Fortunately the electronic guide spoke English and there was a good mixture of Plants Culture—the original plantation house and tasting. The whole area is a National Heritage site.  Rum is no longer made here but several Km away at a more modern site.  Still they did have plenty for us to taste!

The Wednesday Lunch club

On the way back from the supermarket Deb (Bay Pelican) and Marsha (Crusader) stopped us and said it looked as though I could do with a break, so would I like to join the ladies for lunch at the Bay Garden Hotel? Just let Marsha  know by radio so that she could adjust the numbers, and remember to bring my swimsuit for afterwards.
  So I arranged a lift with Pat and Maria and had a fantastic time! 14 or so ladies from the anchored yachts and those in the marina plus a few who were just out for the season.  Marsha says the faces change each week—apart from the few regulars.  So cocktails and chat first, then sit down to lunch,& more to drink, followed by chilling out in the pool, while the more active decided to learn the quick step and salsa. Danielle (St Lucia Sailing Club) made an announcement about the Commodores Barefoot Ball on Saturday at the St Lucia Sailing Club.  We decided to go at the last minute and were pleased that we did, the food was all home cooked and delicious!  Dancing afterwards and we even got a lift home because the heavens had opened while we were eating.( Many thanks Daphne & David)
Various people have had their boats hauled out this week and some have flown home for the summer so the faces had changed at the Ladies lunch.  I said that I would maybe see them again next year as we were leaving for Martinique the next day(24th Mar).
Yes unbelievably Vincent came back and traced the Engine problem to a faulty lead which was not delivering sufficient power for the starter. He remedied it by putting a relay in which seems to have cured the problem! (the jury is still out until it’s been tested under ‘conditions’)
We completed out final evening by going along to Happy Hour at the H2 '0' bar with Gary and Marie (they have a Lagoon Cat called Mai Tai—named after a cocktail) and then for a meal at the Thai Restaurant.

Second week St Lucia

  Visit by Crescendo out to Pigeon Island (not)*
This is a quaint 44 acre National landmark on the end of Rodney Bay. It has belonged to the St Lucia National Trust since 1983.  The interpretive centre gave a good indication of the tussles which have influenced St Lucia since 200 A.D.
Firstly the Arawak Indians from South America were the first to settle there as implements dating to them are on display, Columbus was ‘ere during his 1492 voyage, the pirate James de Bois used it as a hideout during 1550-54, and then it became a strategic harbour for both France and Britain.  Admiral Rodney claimed it (and St Lucia) after his battle in the 7 years war. Next came the American war of Independence and various other Islands around here were also named after Battles fought off them St Lucia changing hands with each win. After the Napoleonic wars it was seeded to GB. Who hung onto it during WW2 but leased it to the States as a signal post.  St Lucia gained its Independence in 1979.
 There are two small Peaks on Pigeon Island, Malcolm kindly took the pictures from the top of each, I had a good book and the sun so waited while he took his exercise.
  The rest of the week was spent doing ’Piano’ jobs, for which we have to thank Yan again for all his help.  Whenever we have a dilemma we always ask him first since he knows her the best.
We are still trying to solve the problem of the engine not starting every time. I won’t bore you with the details until it is finally sorted!  We have another electrician coming out soon.
 The Aqua-drive –which has been spraying grease inside the prop-shaft area has been given new rubber boots.  Our friend John (aboard Folly) had told us exactly how to do it but had not accounted for the foibles of the old girl. She just didn’t want to give in gracefully! A large hammer finally separated the offending part and once it was all off the job went successfully. (NB there is a niche for a torque wrench with an Allen key attachment I wonder how  they do the job on Golf Cars???)
  My tan is just about done so I’m ready for some adventure/diving/fun.  So it rained today and I started a new tapestry. A grirt big jobby of a sailing boat.  The picture on the box is not the same as the one on the canvas and the wools are for the picture on the front! Hey ho if I don’t have sufficient to complete the picture I may have to undo it and do a pattern instead…..I have also had an idea to do one of ’Piano’ but don’t hold your breath.
Tee hee not an island anymore, because they have filled in the channel separating it from the mainland above which are posh hotels etc!

St Lucia

Passage to St Lucia.
  Two days port to port. One sensor decided to make a noise so it was unplugged for the duration. The 913 was tied up but untied itself and made the usual racket.  Readings have been taken of the engine batteries to determine what ampage 7 voltage is necessary to start the engine.
 Had one night at the marina and then moved to Aisys jetty where we have a peaceful private berth.
  Spoilt yet again by being invited to lunch with the King family we are so lucky with our friends!
  Rob & Deirdre very kindly brought us out a few spares so work has begun aboard fixing items again.  Rob helped Malcolm fix the loo pump which has been giving a slight leak and refashioned the handle for the seacock which has become outsized enough to fail to turn the seacock.

Decided to sail with White Gale over to Martinique for the week end. We got a few pictures of them and vice versa. A fast and pleasant 4 hour sail. We lay at anchor and checked in the following morning. A nice big supermarket meant that we could invite Aizy, Deirdre and Stephen over to dinner—we had fish pie.

Saturday we went for a look around St Anne's, a quiet little village with some local charm.  We saw the most enormous Swordfish being gutted on one of the jetties and I managed to find a new watch strap, the rest of the day was spent on the beach.
We ate ashore at a local bistro that night guests of Stephen (Deirdre's cousin), delicious– thanks a bunch Stephen.
Sailed back to Rodney Bay once again very pleasant so I made bread en passage.