September-October 2015

Nereid's Rally

Last Year we heard of the great explorations during the Nereid's Rally to Guyana, French Guyana, and Dutch Guyana. This year we signed up and took part. The preliminary meeting took place at Sails Restaurant. As in previous years David Matelicani gave the introductions, namely of Kit and Gem from Hurakabra, Cathy Hughes (now Minister for tourism in Guyana,) and members of the contingent from French Guyana, and outlined the plans for the rally.

The remainder of August was spent in preparation, stocking the boat and stowing items not required until next hurricane season. We next had a send off dinner at 'Sails' with David and planned for a flotilla sail past as we left for Scotland Bay. Here we spent a couple of hours checking that all the systems were working and then set off for Guyana. Unlike all other journeys this we called sailing in company. There were 9 Boats ; Della Myra with Joe on board, Duplicat Rick and Amanda,(the only catamaran) Eileen of Avoca with David and Adrian the film guy, Freya of Clyde, Ann and Alan, N'Oubliez Jamais and Jean, Ocean Rainbow with James and Claire, Gaia with Romain and Matthew, Silent Annie with Mikey and Amanda and Piano. Ballerina Girl and Don with his son came later to join us in Bartica for the arrival celebrations. Duplicat motored the whole way along the north coast of Trinidad, then caught very favourable wind and current to speed them towards the Essequibo. Because we sailed along the coast we missed out on some of these advantages but the wind direction was still very favourable and we were able to sail the direct course for most of the way with just a couple of short detours onto starboard tack. In all, it took us three and a half days for the 310 miles from Trinidad to the mouth of the Essequibo. On the last night, we slowed down a little in order to negotiate the river in daylight. Our first really peaceful night was spent halfway to Bartica at the Lau-Lau islands. Not so peaceful at dawn though, when the parrots woke up!

From our base at the Hurakabra Resort we made side trips up river to Banganara Resort and downriver to Bartica for shopping and sightseeing. The first trip was to Marshall Falls with the whole rally, this was done in a fast piroque

and was quite scary with the rapids being taken at the same speed as a chase in a Bond movie. No one got wet and we were taken ashore for a short hike to the Falls. Our guide and piroque driver was excellent as he pointed out various plants and bird calls. On arriving at the Falls most people jumped into a 'freezing' pool at the base of the falls and then had fun cavorting about. (I took pictures)

Pic

We also made a trip to Kaieteur Falls with some of the Rally Participants. This is billed as one of the world's largest single drop waterfalls. We travelled by small aircraft and took some spectacular shots from the air before we landed. Amongst the wildlife on show while we were there, the Blue Morpho Butterfly, and the second largest Tank Bromeliads in the world- complete with their own Golden Frog in residence! Needless to say conditions did not allow photos to materialise.

After this we flew onto Iwokrama Rainforest Reservation where we checked in for the night. Accomodation was a private bungalow, more luxurious than I was expecting. Meals were served in the main building where there was a balcony to do some twitching and a bar. This resort is set up for serious field work , playing host to British Universities and other organisations. They are extremely well equiped with scientific equipment.

This is a black Caiman

patrolling the waterfront to deter swimmers, rumour had it that there were Piranhas in the water too! After a great local dinner that night we joined Rick and Amanda on a night cruise up river armed with powerful torches for spotting the eyes of Agouti, Caiman et al.

Next morning after breakfast we set off with Kevin our guide for a hike up Turtle Mountain. 

 Fortunately it was the dry season so quite a pleasant hike. Three hours (ish) to climb up (and the last half hour was nine out of ten in my range of steepness. But the views at the top were spectacular.

On the walk down the sole of my boot parted company with the top, so I dug out my spare pair and got home in time for lunch.

We checked out and said goodbye to the friendly staff at Iwokrama then were taken by Jeep to Rock View Lodge, in a savannah region. When we arrived 2 hours later, Rock View was in full preparation for it's second Music Festival and we enjoyed listening to the preparations and performances from their swimming pool. We had sundowners with the owners and other guests and then a communal evening meal.

Next morning Malcolm and Rick did another hike up a local hill looking for wildlife and birds and so on

while Amanda and I had a leisurely breakfast.

 Lunchtime we were treated as VIP's any choice from the vast selection being prepared for the concert later that day. Then a scheduled flight 

back to Georgetown where we were met by a driver who gave us a whistle-stop tour of the main items, namely the wooden cathedral and the tomb of the last president. Plus we passed through the Cummingsburg district!! more for my Family History research?

Quite enough after a long day. The expedition ended with a fast pirogue trip back to Bartica , where Michael the resident guide/tracker picked us up for the homeward journey to Hurakabra. Later we watched movies in the bar and had a BBQ catered for by Romain,Matthew and Adrian.

The next leg was another upwind sail to the Maroni River in French Guyana. Weather conditions were again completely settled but the course was dead to windward and, with the added hindrance of the adverse current, it took us half an hour under 4 days to cover the 275 miles.

 Throughout the trip were were within a few miles of Duplicat, which provided some added interest. Other, less welcome, interest came in the form of the myriad fishing boats we encountered on the last day, so we didn't get much rest on the last night at sea. We arrived at an Amerindian village called Awala-Yalimapo, where we were greeted by the owner of a restaurant/drinking establishment. He had prepared a brilliant lunch with drinks and a speech. The next day we were treated to some traditional dance

 and another lunch all was very impressive. The village was beautifully kept and tidy, the locals all very friendly. From this spot we did a shopping trip to restock fresh vegetables and such like. We had a trip to a cultural museum with work from local artists and films of the processes involved. Potters collecting clay from the river making the pots then glazing them with plant dyes and finally firing them in oil drums which had wood packed around them. The final product a masterpiece.

Next a trip to Mana a township in that area where we explored and had lunch, this too was exceptional, but I do appreciate good french food! Finally (30^th September) a trip to the French Guyana Space Center where we saw Ariane VA226 being launched from the Agami viewing site. It was another full day of travelling this time by coach, and the actual launch only took a few minutes! Hey ho, it was part of the rally so not the usual price of 52 Euros. We arrived home just before midnight. Friday we all had a potluck aboard S/C Duplicat – by far the largest boat for entertaining. Thanks here to Amanda and Rick.

We moved up to St- Laurent du Maroni, where we were treated to yet another warm welcome. We all sailed down with dress flags flying and arrived at 12 prompt. After picking up our personal buoy we went ashore to see Kit, Gem and Cathy had reciprocated the French delegations invitation and so furthered the entente cordial between the two countries. All the ladies were presented with bouquets of Tropical flowers and a Tourist bag of small items to be enjoyed later. Another exemplary lunch in the form of a finger buffet of gourmet items too numerous to mention. The following day was action packed too. The whole waterfront which had been decked out for the arrival was pressed into use for the townsfolk who were invited to try windsurfing, dinghy sailing, Optimist sailing and having a look on the rally boats. Meanwile facilities ashore were outstanding, no need to use water aboard Piano for the washing and plenty of beers in the fridge at the Marina office. David is a true STAR. We were also happy to meet his right hand man Samual with his girl friend Daniella who came to visit Piano.

More to follow!...

2015 August

  At last I have found time to write the entry for August!
The flight back was uneventful and the only hitch was the terrific queues at the beach. Back aboard all we needed to do was have a bite to eat and go to bed. Unpacking was done the next day and jobs began in earnest.  All the new gadgets already on the spreadsheet were unpacked ready for fitting.  The new shower curtain hung and the first shopping expedition for food rounded the first day off.
During August we have been enjoying the BBQ at Crews Inn with our sailing friends, unfortunately I haven't had time yet to play Mexican train Dominoes.
  The new phone now has a Trinny sim card so calls home are really cheap and it does wi-fi too wow such technology!
Soon after out arrival we hauled out at Peakes yard and had new antifouling done by a great team. It’s amazing that anything gets done when the workers get so little money for such hard work in hot conditions, while the masters rake in the shekkles and make a good living.
The man who works hardest for all the cruisers here is Jesse James and he really runs the best service for shopping trips and entertainment.  Through him we arranged another visit to the Trinidad and Tobago Youth Philharmonic.  This year it was called ’Blessed with Sound’
Mozart Divertimento, Bach Little Fugue in G, Bruch Koi Niche, and Tchaikovsky Capricco Italien.  After the interval the combined orchestras played highlights from the Sound of Music, Fiddler on the Roof, Phantom of the Opera, West side Story, and JC Superstar. In all an outstanding evening.
  The only other trip out was to the Mission Impossible Rogue Nation film at Movie Towne. Many meals have been eaten out at the local restaurants, Zanzibar, the Wheelhouse pub for shark and bake, Crews Inn, and Sails.  All good value and recommendable still.
  Finally we have been researching our first sail of the season this will be on the Nereid Rally to Guyana, French Guyana, and Suriname.  In preparation we watched the Lost Land of the Jaguar and look forward to some spectacular wildlife and sightseeing.  We have sourced Malarone for Malarial protection and stocked up with sailing meals for the 6 day cruise in company.  We have also booked inland trips to Kaieteur Falls with others on the rally to keep the cost low.
Also if you do Facebook there will be regular tracking each day to show where we are while on the rally, I shall try to send an email to everyone so that you can look at the track directly but I will need help with this new technology so be patient.

UK Travels June-July

   Arrived to 12 C temperatures! Drove to Kent to visit mum but also saw my brother with his family, Uncle Edwin Aunty Joy and Fiona then Edwina and Richard who have a new dog.
We also made side trips to Malcolms’ sister to pick up post and his black suit. To Maria in Streatham and Ikea shopping with her plus Denise & Anton in Postling for a yummy lunch.
    We left for our cottage a week later and the fun began!
First stop was for coffee at Shirley and Davids’ with time to hear their news. Then the long drive to Cornwall.
  Yet again the loo seat and the Jacuzzi plug are wrecked.  My new phone was ordered by next day delivery and arrived a week later, I fitted the micro sim but failed to activate it, so when we took a break to hike along the Coastal path from Mousehole to Lamorna

 we couldn’t access any of the help which I had found out at home with wi-fi. (not that there was any phone coverage in the area anyway) We get better phone coverage in the Caribbean! The icing on the cake was a handful of memos at the Merry Maidens site to ask for objections for the placement of a wi-fi aerial near Boleigh Farm.  When I tried to use the site I needed to sign in to post but it wasn’t worth it since all the others had objected (on the grounds of it being in a Site of Outstanding Natural Beauty )

Wednesday and Thursday saw us stripping the small window in the master bedroom.

 This needed more reconstruction to the outer sill (Malcolm) and much paint removal and sanding (Sue)
Friday 12th saw the start of Falmouth International Sea Shanty Festival, proceeds in aid of the RNLI.  It coincided with Falmouth Classics. so went to Pendennis Point to watch the sail past plus the starts of most of the races. Sunday we sang along with more of the Sea Shanties in a packed Falmouth. and later.

The Grapevine Falmouth

Shared a meal with our dear friends John and Val

 Amongst the renovations a team arrived on the waterfront below to track a blocked drain in the Waterfront properties, after finding it solid with soil and leaves they decided this wasn’t the offending drain and set off to look at some more.  All in the area are equally blocked!  Later dashed to Truro to get stuff for Piano.
Recycling is in full flow with all that has been ordered.
Jenny and Ray are as happy as ever in the pink house opposite, Bizzy at 32 is still there she hasn’t moved and parking is still a nightmare.
    The last weekend and more sailing friends Susan and Andrew S/Y Andromeda arrived to visit. As with all encounters I shall suffice to say blah blah and you will surely appreciated all the talking which was done! We took them to see the ‘J’ Class Classics Racing in the Harbour. Susan also helped me with my new phone and I managed to post from Pendennis Point!  Incidentally I met our next door neighbour Charles , who does long lets with his cottage. he is an engineer on one of the J Class boats, so we will look out for him next year and maybe even get a tour included?
  After saying toodle pip to Bohill we drove up to Loughborough to visit with Kerri and John (S/Y ‘Folly’). Almost there and the cottage manager phoned to say we had left our overnight bag upstairs– eek. Malcolm then dropped me off and made a return trip to retrieve said bag,(600 miles more travel)
We had a delightful stay with KP and JP visiting Charnwood Forest, Melton Mowbray Market, Loughborough town center, and much more. Plenty to catch up on since we haven’t seen them since we crossed the pond.  ‘Folly’ was caught in Hurricane Sandy and has had much work done to sort her out.  They have also had a few problems letting their house hence the time at home.  We hope to see them in the Caribbean again too.  The weather was glorious with many meals taken outside in their GARDEN, with the tinckle of water from the pond and the scent of flowers in the air.

   The next stop was in Underbarrow, Cumbria. To visit Elaine and Steve.  A blissful few days of true holiday.  Plenty of chat, real ale, a hot tub,

and a hike. Steve has cut his work time down so fingers crossed we may get a visit next year? Elaine meanwhile has taken up acting so will probably be hard at work in Hollywood.
  After we departed Cumbria we travelled to Cleverly, where my second cousin Angela greeted us.  Never having been to this part of England before we were enraptured. There were crowds who like us think it’s worth a visit. Angelas’ husband John had just had an op so couldn’t make it along the seafront.

Yet more chatting to catch up. We had lunch at Knott End a haunt of Malcolms while at Uni on a sailing trip, then continued to Alderly Edge to surprise Uncle Ian and Aunty June. Oops no picture for this –sorry. They recommended the De Trafford to eat (tick Trip Advisor) and a wonderful Guest House to stay the night, (another tick for hospitality here too).
   Almost home and we dropped by to visit my college friend Jeanette, who has 2 more days before she retires.

 She too asked if the offer was still open to visit us in the Caribbean next year– smile.
Last stop Margaret and Roger ( who helped with the sail from Antwerp to Dover back in 2008), they live in Bracknell and have so many grandchildren! Margarets’ brother (another Malcolm) took us all out to eat at Lock Fyne Yummy! More Chat …
But they always say manyana so we live in hope they will get time off for good behaviour, and the bench to visit us.

OK back to Sandwich and what a surprise only more parcels for ‘Piano’. I did manage to contact Cathy and Robert Brooke (S/Y Veritas friends) who invited us to lunch.

 Needless to say there was much to chat through , having not seen them since 2008 in Dover.
 We ended up accompanying them to Dormansland Carnival which will be their last (they move to Dartmouth soon) then a quick cup of T before returning to Sandwich.  Folk & Ale Festival in the Town. Wow!

Wimbledon is over so the rain began to cool us from exceptional summer weather, all in all a fitting end to our brief visit home.

Barbados May 2015

Tuesday 31st March, sees us motoring round to Cocoa Bay, meandering through said corals and shifting sandbanks (3 hours motoring slowly). After lunch the skies turned grey and another 10 minute burst of rain.  It seems the best snorkelling will be in the mornings.

  Good Friday 3rd April! Sailed to Jolly Harbour 35.8 NM in 5 hours 10 mins an average of 6.8 NM/hour.
4th motored to 5, Islands and then Deep Bay on the 5th Dived on the ‘Wreck of the Andes’ Not good visibility but interesting for our first wreck dive.

7th back to 5 Islands and all alone, brief wifi then to Jolly to check out.
8th Sailed to Deshaies Guadeloupe, 48.8 NM in just under 8 hours averaging 6.3 KN/hour.

  A very wet morning with the main aft hatch slightly open meant that the one BIG wave emptied onto the nav desk and galley plus the saloon cushions too.  Much to dry off then wash in Freshwater when we got in.  Still we saw plenty of turtles and just before we anchored a pod of dolphins too.
We refilled the dive tanks and had French pastries, said hi to S/Y Coromandel (12th) before motor sailing to Pigeon Island to see if we could find Sea horses.  This time the anchorage was calmer than Deshaies. Visibility fair enough to watch a Caribbean Spiny Lobster. There were many new sponges to add to the photo collection.
Monday 13th April sailed from Pigeon to Bourg des Saints.  Just after setting a full Yankee, staysail and 3 reefs of the main we were called by a customs boat, who wanted to board and search.  We put fenders out and two very polite guys hopped aboard.

  One sat in the cockpit with Malcolm taking ‘Piano’s’ particulars, the other came below and poked around in various cupboards.  We were heeling a bit and they became a little nervous that we were away from the coast, however, seemed quite satisfied with their visit and wished us a pleasant onward sail to Guadeloupe.

   Ok it was a bit boisterous, being hard on the wind, plus as we entered the Saints channel there were MANY fishing buoys to avoid.  That said we arrived in time for lunch at Tea time.  We stayed 2 nights and bought sufficient croissants to last the next trip.  Also had a tasty lunch to enable us some wi fi what a bonus!

   Wednesday 15th April, slipped the mooring and sailed for Portsmouth, Dominica—23 Nm in 3 hours 24 minutes, an average of 6.8 Kts.  We were welcomed by Titus who remembered us from last year and took the opportunity to arrange a trip up the Indian River the next morning and a BBQ that evening at which we met a few new yachties.

  Thursday Titus came by at 08.30 to pick us up and take us to the Indian River, here he lifted his outboard and handed us to Leo who rowed us along peacefully explaining the wild-life around us.

   Sometime thereafter we sailed for St Lucia, anchoring overnight in Rodney Bay—while Malcolm went ashore to sign in.  Next we moved into the marina to top-up the water and batteries. A short trip for shopping and to visit Derek and Bridgit.  Here we caught up on the families news and gave them a brief resume of our adventures.

This a snap of the nav computer, how I wish Picassa web albums still worked!

   Another day another Island, this time we had the correct angle to make Barbados on a fine reach, taking 24 hours to make the yacht club to sign in then anchored in Carlisle Bay.  Not much has changed since our landfall back in January 2010, there were still horses being exercised in the sea, and jet skis zooming past at all hours.  Our first trip ashore we noticed that the Port Authority has placed mooring balls in the inner harbour and after finding the office we inquired when we could enter.  This with the help of the new owner of the Pub at the Bridge House.  I just can’t get Trip Advisor to find me their listing! So here is a snap of our view. 

 A day or so later Anton arrived with Cliff and David.  They easily found ‘Piano’ and came for sun-downers.

  Next ensued a fun packed week while they waited for the start of the cricket.  

Tuesday we hiked  a short distance to the racecourse to watch the 'ponies'.   As we arrived the first race was about to start and we had a prime view being at the start line!

  We then went in search of sustenance and found the victualing area where we had lunch of Doubles and hot-dogs with Banks beer.  Then we watched the remainder of the races from the Grandstand and even had a winner!

   Wednesday we took a taxi to The Atlantic Hotel, Tent Bay, in St Josephs parish. Yes lunch was sumptuous and truly Caribbean in flavour.  It was ideal for the three visitors as it gave them the opportunity to savour many different dishes.  Also a perfect day weather wise just a gentle breeze over the water.

  Close by is Bathsheba and the whole of this coast is grazed by the Atlantic Ocean.  Did I mention the fields of Sargasso weed through which we sailed? Apparently it is not unusual, it’s just that in five years we have never seen it so thick.

  So the primary reason for the visitors from England was the third test Cricket at the Oval just outside Bridgetown.  In fact many locals failed to support their side after the first day.  Consequently they returned and trashed the English side!

(The BBC sports site gives a far better coverage than I can with some good snaps too.)

  While the boys were having fun at the Cricket, we arranged for the Yankee sail to be repaired at Doyles and then went to collect it. Our sail had been packed ready for collection but we were given a full tour of the high tech sail loft at Six Crossroads.  What a happy workforce, and what superb working conditions.  With all the doors and windows open and enough shade to make life conjunctive to excellent sail making!

  We had sun-downers at Anton's Hotel followed by dinner at an Italian Restaurant then bade him goodbye until June when we are home again. 

  Our final sail of the year was back to Trinidad and we arrived early on the 7th June.  Richard fitted the air con the next day and work began on getting ‘Piano’ ready to have a holiday.  Malcolm even put a bag around the prop this year to combat the growth of weed.  Fortunately S/Y ‘C Drifters’ came in just before we flew home and relieved us of what was left in the fridge.  We must also say a very big THANK-YOU to Ray & Ireene for bringing Malcolms' laptop and glasses over for us.  How did he forget them ????? 

March 2015

The last of Bonaire.
The interlude of Bliss is almost over, we have dived many times and have taken sufficient photos to fill a book.  I have even managed to pick the best for a slideshow! This together with tags and scientific names.  The next big job will be to make a movie but that can wait ‘til we get back to Bohill.
  Around Valentines Day we made plans to set sail North, this was a short plan and quickly washed away by the tide.  Next we filled the fuel, water and petrol tanks at the marina and noticed that the anemometer was not working.  So the following day I hauled Malcolm to the top of the mast to bring it down for some TLC. 3 in 1 worked wonders so it’s happy to work again.  Van Den Tweel’s is a marvelous supermarket and about the same standard as M & S in the UK , their fresh milk is flown in daily by KLM air! However non left on Friday so Malcolm walked in on Saturday and collected the latest delivery.
  This is a snap of two Frog fishes the Orange one is obvious– what colour is the other ? Answers as comments please!

   Saturday we have found a classical concert on in town so early dinner and then to listen.
                 
Finally I must mention our friends on S/Y Red Shoes, Brine & Barbara, we have had many good times in their company and feel sad that they are still awaiting parts for their water-maker.

I forgot to say we saw Luis Quiintero play guitar at Fortkerk, Curaçao, last month with Otto & Esther. Also; we have come to the end of ‘Suits’ and how is this possible when it has run for so long? Series 3 has only 5 episodes! I think we need some more?

The Upwind Passage
We topped up on fresh supplies one last time at Van den Tweels and said goodbye to S/Y Red Shoes, then set sail for St Thomas Charlotte Amelie. It was quite a stiff breeze and pleasantly fast.  So such a good job that I had 6 sailing meals ready to be defrosted and reheated instead of having to cook while crashing around.  Delia would be proud of me! - not that I am all that hungry while en passage!
To our amazement we arrived early in the morning , I might have guessed since I wasn't called at 22 hundred hours for my watch! I do HATE arriving at night, my night vision leaves much to be desired but it doesn't help that there are also unlit buoys and boats all over the anchorage with a backlight of Land lights which resemble Christmas, namely traffic lights, street-lights and vehicle light plus illuminated adverts to name a few.
  We dropped anchor smartly and retired abed ( and I did get a lie in !) We checked in later that day and slept well again the following night.  By the time we caught up with emails both of our inboxes were overflowing plus our dear friends Jen & John (S/Y Aeesha see racing last year) had planned our evening for us. A BBQ and entertainment aboard S/Y Out of Africa - a Moody . What a great evening it was.  The following day Malcolm hiked with them to the island.
We also made our usual visit to K Mart.  New sandles and shorts for Malcolm but alas no air-tight containers yet for the large casserole, so instead a new frying pan non stick coated with “Rock” I wonder how long it will last?

Next day we left for Christmas Cove and some snorkelling, nothing on Bonaire but still Malcolm manage to find a new species. Then after checking out at St Johns we made for Virgin Gorda.  Interesting that NO paperwork was needed! Apparently they have a deal with the BVIs so I hope the young guy has his facts right!
  Yes ! No problem signing in at Virgin Gorda, with good enough wi-fi plus a reasonable bookswap too. Great weather and no stress, this is more like it! Chickens abound in all locations , even the beach bar:

Another day another port. St Barths just in time to meet up with Paul and Jane on their annual holiday.  Jane is convalescing from a hip replacement so no time aboard for her this year.

 She is however making great progress with recovering her mobility, I’m sure it won’t be too long before she is back in the saddle!  We are invited to stay ashore with them which makes a pleasant change to all the wind that we have been listening too aboard. We had some tremendous food including one of Pauls’ famous BBQ’s. We visited Baie de St Jean, Anse de Saline and Anse du Gouveneur In all such hospitality and friendship—the time flew by– we checked out to leave for St Martin and even saw their planes over head while on our way.
Only a few days in St Martin (just to restock the cellar)
with plenty of washing for “Shrimpey’s”.  Mike and Sally are looking well and happy to see us.  We anchor in Marigot Bay,  rather than run the gauntlet with the shallows in the Lagoon.  I manage to get a few more places on Trip Advisor too.  Shopping is easy and Croissants, Baguettes and Brie with wine are at the top of the list.  While sourcing some spares at Budget we encounter Pam and Andy (S/Y Felice ) who inform us that they are returning to the UK so sell their little yacht (sad) for something bigger. We will hold that thought until we meet again.  Last years refund on batteries meant that it was a free shopping trip at Budget—wow almost unheard of.

      A fast ride under full sail back to St Barths for the Bucket Race.  Once again we arrived at the finish line and were able to get some great shots. The second day we climbed up to the old Fort to see the race and met Linda and Andy (S/Y Coromandel) We anchored overnight at Anse de Colombier and were invited over to have sundowners and play Mexican Train Dominoes.

      Wednesday 25th March we sailed to Antigua, had a day at Jolly Harbour then anchored at 5 Islands Bay for better wi fi.  Once again the wind is blowing old boots into the bay being funneled around the coastal mountains, if it stays like this the Antigua Race calendar should be exciting.  After smelling a whiff of diesel Malcolm investigated to find a split hose on the generator which he was able to fix without resorting to Budget Marine!  We see S/Y Bayzano in Folly Bay so anchor close and pay them a visit.  Time to catch up on their travels and have a beer or so.  They have been to Culebra and around mostly waiting for the same winds as us.
      Sunday 29th March, since the wind has abated we decide to sail to Barbuda, a sister Island to Antigua but totally different.  It being a broad ish reach we use full sail and arrive before lunch having made excellent time, only 5 1/2 hours at an average speed of over 7 knots!  It rains as we approach but we manage to negotiate the sand banks and coral reefs to the anchorage. Only 3 other yachts for an eleven mile sand spit.  Next day we are hailed by Chris (S/C Alia Vita) who asks if we would like to go with them on an Island trip. They pick us up after coffee, and we wait a little while for Geoffrey to arrive, getting acquainted with our new friends Rob and Francis, who sailed the pond last November. Geoffrey arrives, he is famous, having his picture on the cover of the latest Doyles Guide.  First a high speed motor to the office to pay the entrance to the Codrington Lagoon National Park—Magnificent Frigate bird Sanctuary.  Then the start of another run across the inland lagoon, with a short stop for him to introduce himself and some history of the Frigate bird colony. Which, incidentally, were able to move from this spot out of harms way when a hurricane threatened to wipe them out. They later relocated to their present home a further 20 minutes ride away.

The breeding season is from November until the end of March.  We therefore see many hatchlings in nests, with many birds soaring above and one or two males still hoping to find a mate.

This Sanctuary is the pride of the Island they appreciate that the birds could move house at any time , so the guides take pains to disturb the nests as little as possible.  A buoyed rope prevents anyone getting too close.

     The water around is teeming with an upside down jelly fish — Quite difficult to see as they have a dark pigment in their tentacles and look like aquatic plants.  Occasionally you can see the normal signs of a pulsating jelly fish.  The pigment contains chlorophyll which converts sunlight to starch by photosynthesis, this is why the jelly fish has to bask upside down.

     We speed back to the jetty and Geoffrey hands us onto Dilly a taxi cab driver who is to take us to the “Highlands”.
On the way he tells us that Barbuda is 62 sq miles of an idyllic island paradise.  Here there are miles and miles of EMPTY sandy beaches ok I lie maybe one or two people and the odd Mangrove bush.

Plus a tinge of pink which on close inspection is due to weeny pink bi-valve shells. By the time we arrive at the Highlands we know that Barbuda was finally claimed from the Amerindians in 1666.  It was leased to Sir Christopher and his brother John Codrington in 1685 for the rent of 1 fat sheep when required in the UK.  Since the island is mostly sand, sugar cane did not grow well.  In fact only a few hardy vegetables were grown to feed the slaves both here and on Antigua.  When a glut was produced the excess was traded.  By far the best product were the fine slaves which working the land.  They were so well treated that they needed no overseer to berate them. The island soon became the major source of slaves for the Region.
     Barbuda meanwhile needed meat and this must have been imported originally as there are now wild deer, boar, sheep, pigs, horses and goats.  The other source were the shallow, warm, waters which harboured corals, surrounding the shores which provided a bounty of fish. However these same corals also became a problem for passing trade which often ran aground (with the help of a false light-house).  No doubt these wrecks have in turn provided nursery’s for more coral growth.

    We arrive at Two Foot Bay where the Gun Shot Cliff, Darby and Indian Caves are first climbed and then investigated by our party.  The cliffs are similar to those on Bonaire and Curaçao, being VERY sharp and full of thorns.  Views of the North East coast were pretty good even from this height. (100 ft or 60m ). While climbing back down there was a brief shower but hardly enough to wet the ground.  The Island desalination plant gives salt water so most people depend on well water and what little can be caught.

  Next stop is the Customs & Immigration offices for Rob and Francis to check out, they sail for St Barths tomorrow.
Finally at nearer 3 o’clock we arrive at a seaside restaurant, which Dilly phoned to book for us.  We were the only customers and were given a warm welcome and our food was almost ready for us.  Needless to say Malcolm and I had Crayfish with cole-slaw, pasta salad, green salad pumpkin and sweet potato. Francis and Rob had tasted it yesterday so had Snapper instead and were equally impressed.  Dilly arrived to pick us up and return us to the jetty where Geoffrey awaited our return.  We had this snap taken with him to mark the day.

No need to cook that night!

Tuesday 31st March, sees us motoring round to Cocoa Bay, meandering through said corals and shifting sandbanks (3 hours motoring slowly). After lunch the skies turned grey and another 10 minute bust of rain.  It seems the best snorkelling will be in the mornings.

We have now sailed back to Antigua, 5 Islands again to upload this issue, its Easter Saturday and we have just finished eating dinner at 22.30 yes you guessed the gas ran out so the roast took longer!
Anyway, I leave you here to do the drying up , and wish you all a Happy Easter!
Excuse typos yawn.....

February Bonaire diving at last!

Engine block...not ours!

Well my avid readers I’m at it again. After being reminded by 3 friend I’m doing my duty and letting you all know our news. It’s Friday 13th and the first mistake was an accident with the 2 stroke oil which emptied onto the Nav area floor so panic to scoop it up before it went every-where, that done we went for a tank fill and wifi at the yellow Submarine where Fi gave me her advice on Corals which we have seen a plenty over at Klein Bonaire.  There hasn’t been a tail end of a hurricane here since 1999 and growth is taking off fast.  We now have some pretty good snaps of both Corals, fish and sea creatures.  Plus an interesting fact that Parrot fish who dine by scraping the coral with their teeth, (this gets any small creatures into their stomachs) but also means that the coral (dead) gets worn away and excreted as sand for tourists to sit on –tee heee.  We only have 10 tank refills left and the 15th of March is drawing closer when we should be in St Barths again to visit with Jane and Paul.  We need to work fast and be ready for the next weather window to make our way North to Culebra and points East to St Barths.

I hear from some at home that there has been a little snow OK I don’t really miss it but just so that you realise our friends families in Canada are undergoing MINUS 40 C so be thankful it’s not like that in the UK!
 Last weekend we went into Kralendijk to view the children's Carnival, this Sunday is the adults Carnival so more fun to be had.  Expect the adult Carnival in the next update.

Now then a kit update
My iPad has stopped saying that it’s hot and shutting down– maybe it just didn't like the data card—or the fact I wouldn't update it to ios 8, I have taken the bait and updated to 8.3.2 because it has been on top form while here.
The generator has been quite good too, the non charging has been cured but we had a small worry that the same dial was dead the other day ( I tapped it and it sprang to life) so no costly payment necessary.

Dive gear is all performing well, only operator error to blame for leaking masks, and colour problems when the camera is not set for underwater!

 Well that’s about it for this edition.  We have finished all available episodes of House, The Good Wife, and Top of the Lake– which I didn't like very much! We are now watching the second series of Suits with loads more to see.
I have also been putting together DVDs of our snaps by year, and have been trying to edit movies with Go Pro Studio (not much success there) it takes 3 days to make and 3 minutes to watch!!!

By far a better way of spending the day is a light lunch with friends, or a cocktail on shore as the sun sets.
 Next update sometime in March.  Meanwhile enjoy the pictures whether you see them here , on Google plus or Facebook.