Isla de Culebrita

 Just a short sail but plagued with many motor-launches all going the same way!  Fortunately we picked up a buoy since the small craft had to throw an anchor ashore—they had no tender. ’Melvin’ arrived later and we all enjoyed crystal clear azure waters a cooling breeze and pleasant company.  Malcolm had to hike up the hill to the old lighthouse.  It was built in 1880 (so who did the census?) Anyway it is a ruin and a new one has been built. He also rowed across Tortuga beach to the Jacuzzis, an area of boulder filled pools which are frequently filled with water which percolates through from the northeast coast.
  From here we sailed to Isla Vieques just 25 Km away.  We first looked at Puerto Mosquito but since it was shallow and unprotected turned back for Peurto Ferrol.  It too was shallow but we safely anchored in 3m of water which was strongly bio-luminescent after dark. The more you moved about the great the disturbance and light show.  Sorry no pictures it just didn’t show up.
   Next day was an even shorter sail after we went slightly aground while trying to navigate out of the shallow bay. Just 2 miles to Ensenada Sun Bay where we picked up a buoy, had a quick swim to cool off , lunch, then into town for fresh vegetables etc.
  The Spanish invaders called Vieques and her smaller islands the Useless Islands and the pirates/British called it ‘Crab Island' due to the many crabs.  Once the Spanish arrived they conquered and enslaved the local Tainos , the Island then being taken into Puerto Rico.    Further landings were made by the English, French and Dutch but all were seen off by the Puerto Rican Spaniards. The annexation occurred in 1854 when Governor Don Teofilo Jaime LeGuillo began to build a fort.  The Island then saw a boost to industry as sugar mills were set up and run by black slaves.

  1898 the United States arrived in the form of the gunboat ‘Yale’.  The Fort commander told Lt Cont that he must fire a cannon before surrendering.  ‘41 the US Navy arrived and purchased 2/3 of the Island to use for ordinance.  This meant plenty of jobs in construction and people travelled from all the neighbouring islands to work.  Of course when the boom had finished the locals had no more work so were relocated to San Croix.  Fortunately for us the Americans have recently given up using their patch for bombardment although there are signs for divers to beware of unexploded bombs!  Unemployment is still high and tourism is in its infancy, this is all good for us blue-water sailors who can enjoy a relatively unspoilt Island.  We anchored at Esmerelda the small town on the West Coast.

 The pilot book said that a ‘Publico’/Taxi would cost $2 one way,  the guy we asked as to where the bus stop was said it would cost $3 his friends waved down another driver who was taking a couple to the ferry and he charged us $5 each on the outward journey and $6 on the return because he only had the pair of us aboard! 

   While in Isobel Seconda we walked to the light-house after a great breakfast on the way.  Then to the Fort/Museum which seems only to have ever been a jail for slaves and miscreants.  Besides some superb photography and art work it also showed artefacts from Archaeological digs.   On our way out we met the 3 chaps we had seen yesterday sailing into Sun Bay on a days cruise, how amazing! I promised to send them the snap I had taken of them all sailing.  After tea we sailed for Green Beach –just a few miles further on since it was ‘round the corner’ and less bumpy.  I made Beef Pepperpot and we watched the bioluminescence by candle-light  The alaarm was set for early next morning when we sailed off the anchorage for Boca del Infierno just 33 Km nearer to our destination. 

No sooner had we anchored at Cayos de Caribes when ‘Loonsong’ called us up and told us of a BBQ tomorrow evening.  The night was so peaceful, hardly a movement aboard ‘Piano’ refreshed we sailed the last 3 Km for Salinas.  This was all inside the reef which lays around the coast, so it was a speedy broad reach most of the way only stopping to stow the sails and motor into the bay.

Salinas—Puerto Rico 13th April 2012 

  

Julie & Malcolm

On arrival we motored to find ‘Melvin’ and not to be disappointed there was Julie on deck waving as though we hadn’t seen them! She came across and told us that we needed to order food for the BBQ so we dropped everything and went ashore to do so—and to check into the new customs area.  Although not staying at the marina the receptionist was very helpful and friendly.  The BBQ was awesome, 2 huge pork ribs, 2 pieces of chicken and sausage plus chips! (with a chocolate strawberry for afters)  We caught up with the missed days on ‘Melvin’ they had stopped to anchor at Monkey Island and had already found the free wi-fi ashore.

  Over coffee and cake we tried to do emails but it started to rain which put paid to that as the awning leaked too badly. The roads were awash when we walked back.  During the afternoon we played Mexican Train Dominoes.  Oh I forgot to say that the coolant has been disappearing from the reservoir for the generator and Malcolm has been trying to locate the leak.  He hasn’t found it yet but has found a leak in the salt water pump so it looks like a marina stop soon.

On Sunday we shared a car with ’Melvin’ and drove to San Juan for a sight-seeing day. From Salinas we travelled on the 52 and continued as far as the old town. We began along a board walk towards the Fort of San Felipe del Morro when we arrived at the town gate there was a notice to say the board walk was under refurbishment until later this year.  Not to be thwarted we continued through city across the green park areas before the Fort. There were many families flying kites in the brisk wind.  San Felipe del Morro is run by the Parks department so has an interpretive centre and re-enactments to see which explain the history of the fort.  We were fortunate enough to see demonstrations of a cannon and an old rifle being fired. After a short stop for light refreshments we sauntered to San Cristobel another more recent addition which is even more secure between the fortifications the Island has been safe from all invaders , I mean, Francis Drake, Abercromby, various Dutch and French soldiers until the Americans invaded c 1898. We continued back to the car via some delightful ‘Calla’s interspersed with ‘Plaza’s and fountains.  So tempting we stopped again for coffee and more cakes!

 See Picasa for snaps. Unfortunately, this late afternoon stop meant that we caught the evening traffic in town and it took over an hour to leave the car park !! We came to the conclusion that it is a National pastime to promenade on a Sunday evening. This meant that our planned drive back on the more scenic route had to be abandoned.

Culebra

The sail to Culebra

  We set full sail for Culebra and the winds held good for the first half of the trip dying to nothing as we approached the harbour at Ensenda Honda.  Just off the entrance there is a long reef which we book-marked for snorkelling later.  We anchored near the main town and then had tea and cake.
  Next morning we went ashore to check in at the airport.  (quite a walk)  We had a bit of a wait as there was a plane due in.  There were the usual forms to fill in including one for food.  I established that they didn’t want the contents of the freezer nor any canned goods just fresh food, wine and tobacco. They were by far the friendliest customs guys, giving us advice on the best place to eat and the quietist beaches. It only costs a few dollars to take a ferry to Puerto Rico by ferry—as cheap as a bus ride to the tourist beach. They also gave us a cruising permit for the whole of the U.S.A. ! This means that all we need do for other US ports is phone and tell them our cruising number and that we have arrived—so no need to fill out more forms. Great eh…
  Back aboard ‘Piano’ for coffee and lunch before heading off to the reef for the afternoons entertainment.  We picked a buoy and jumped in.  The first thing I saw was a Ray chilling out on the sea-floor! So I had to be quick with the camera to get the shot before it swam away.  Next a conch shell started moving and on further observation I saw it was quite a big  hermit crab.  Plenty of other shoals of brightly coloured fish so we were worn out by the time we got back to ’Piano’ for sundowners and dinner.
  The following day we snorkelled on the other side of the island at three different locations each with it’s own microcosm of aquatic life.
  ‘Melvin’ arrived later on with a bottle and bites so we caught up on their sail over and arranged to join them for a hike to the beach the following day.  Flamenco Beach is about 3 miles from the anchorage so we had a decent walk there.  Most of the holiday makers had used the bus.  The beach was busy but not too overcrowded. There was plenty of surf and quite a strong current but it was great fun.
  The Island is inhabited by about 2,000 people but this is greatly topped by the many daytime visitors by small plane and the ferry from Puerto Rico.  The quaint town is set up fro all types of sailing vessel as we soon found out.  It was Easter and the whole country came out in anything that floated to visit a beach and chill out.  Internet was excellent this being a small island it is covered by the town of Dewey (some of the older inhabitants still call it Pueblo Viejo.) After stocking up with what little groceries were available we sailed to Isla de Culebrita for the holiday.

St Thomas—Charlotte Amelie

   On the second day at Buck Reef Island our friends Julie Terry & Owen called round to say hi and ended up staying to dinner. We said cheers to them at coffee the next day then left Christmas Cove and sailed to Charlotte Amelie, St Thomas, very windy on arrival 7 knots. Wind increased at sundown.  The anchor held well and we can understand why Edward Teach (Blackbeard) considered this a safe harbour.  It is almost totally enclosed!
  After the formalities we had a sightseeing tour.  This involved looking at the various cruise liner shops selling duty free goods and going up 99 steps to Blackbeards tower.
On the way up we had a tour around the amber museum (See snaps on Picasa) and this dinosaur growled as we went past!

and various residences which have been preserved in tact.  Had we known it there were 3 pools to swim in we'd have taken our cozzies!.  At the top a restaurant and a rum distillery, very near the final climb to the top of the tower.
On the way we passed bronze statues for most of the notorious pirates
How about this one for a Johnny Depp look alike...

  We continued—the next day after saying hello to ’Mervyn’ again and being invited round to dinner with them this time.– to look around the French quarter.
  We also caught up with 'Blackthorn Lady'  (Ian & Jacqui) and ended up being shown the best place for free wi fi , which was a bar called the 'Doghouse'
  Since there was little in the way of wind we all decided to stay on for the Sunday and have a game of Mexican Dominoes aboard Mervyn it lasted 5 hours including a short stop for lunch.  We ajourned for sundowners aboard 'Piano' and I rustled up some spag bog for supper.
  Monday after a quick shop we set off for Culebra but that's for the next installment...

Saturday 17th. St Patrick's Day.

  Ashore quite early since we could hear the drums at 8.30!  The town was packed by 9 o’clock with visitors plus ‘sailors’ from the Cruise liner Seabourn Spirit.  Around 20 floats were displayed around the one-way system and all traffic was held up.  Plenty of noise green costumes, Heineken and frolics.  There was one pretty authentic ‘Irish’ float too.  We ate a tasty bowl of Irish Stew, for lunch, at Angry Nates, on the waterfront . Then went around Eastern end of the Island to Udall Point stopping at various viewpoints over azure blue waters.  The beaches I have to say were nothing special but the were sparsely used and most had a beach bar.
Sunday more touring, this time the Eastern end from the Salt River Ecological Park where we looked at the beach of C. Columbus second landing.  Here we met a Texan who was over to work on the closing of the oil refinery and had coffee at the Buccaneer bar in the Salt River Marina compound.  We then travelled to Cane Bay for lunch and it was here that Malcolm saw 3 squid while snorkelling, we narrowly avoided some rain.  We also watched a guy snorkelling while giving a black Labrador a piggy back.  Final destination we ended up at Sandy Point National Wildlife Refuge.  Here we did some more snorkelling and saw a flatfish and many other tropical fish in a new area of growing coral.
  Monday into town for shopping and petrol before we took the car back.  Stopping briefly to tell the Parks Department we intended to stay the night at Buck Island Reef. Coffee finished we motored to Buck Reef National Park and anchored.  After lunch and some adjustment in anchoring we then had the afternoon on the Underwater snorkelling trail where we saw schools of Parrot fish, a Trumpet fish and a Barracuda, eek!

San Croix March 15th ish

  Yes it was a good sail!
   We left around 4 (T time) and had Chilli for dinner a short nap for me until 10 pm when I took over the watch ‘til two in the morning.  Malcolm did his stint from 2-7.30 am then had a rest for 3 hours again.   We arrived at St Croix, Red Hook,  marina around 4 where we had a busy time coming in because it had blown up to 25 knots of wind and far too many pilot marks to drive through, Some places very shallow! Still I was cautious driving and managed to let Malcolm berth without incident.  The most expensive marina yet ! With cold showers too !  Next day a walk into town where we found out how to get an anchoring permit and dives planned.  Then we did the historic town trail.  We arrived back at the marina supermarket and paid $4 for 3 tomatoes (oh for the days when they were free at Darby Green)  Next moved ‘Piano’ out into the Gallows Harbour where it was less bumpy and cheaper.
  14th March  took a public transport bus to Freidrichstat.  Had coffee, looked around, did emails at the library while it rained, and then looked at the Museum which had exhibitions on slavery, sculpture (a local guy ‘Edney Freedom) and Island history.
Thursday we did the town trail, which began at the Old Scale House on the harbour front.  At one end of the building is the scale which was used to weigh a hogshead of sugar or Rum— the other end was the counting house  or recording room, this is now a gift shop with a very helpful salesperson who is also a local and who knows about the bus service and where to find fresh bread.  Nearby is the old Customs House which has a sweeping staircase and should house the National Park Services Office but it was being refurbished and we found the said office across the street in the onetime Danish West India & Guinea Company Warehouse.  This is where slave auctions were held up until the emancipation around 1848.  Next came the Steeple building (formerly the Lutheran Church which now holds a display of Religious documents.
  We then found the large area for Market—held on Saturdays together with the town well.  Quite nearby but the devil to pinpoint was a tiny Apothecary's shop. Just as it used to be together with a recorded history to explain its history.
  Friday we picked up a car and did the Northern half of the Island, including St Georges Botanical Gardens and village, with its fine Orchid display and various sugar mill ruins.  The scenic route around to Creque Dam and waterfall.
Enough for now tomorrow St Patricks Day !

16th March

We are fairly OK, the Fridge /freezer part has been replaced with a new system and the smaller Fridge at the back is now working again as a spare & for when we defrost the freezer. (just over £1000) St Maartin only has one place to refill gas bottles and we were fairly sure we were nearly out so went to have ours refilled only to find that their nozzle to refill European bottles at the shop has bust so more expense since we don't know if the USA (Virgin Islands) will refill it either. That's the job for today.
We had a brilliant outcome to the old outboard situation. The old Yamaha was near death and I drew the line and said to Malcolm let's get a replacement. We decided on a Tohatsu 9.8 and got it from the guy who does the sailors net here, Mike (very reputable). Well he said he would do an oil change but he is old and forgot so Malcolm took the engine out at his place to remind him when he wanted to replace the slightly worn propeller. Next thing is the replacement prop doesn't fit and doesn't look anything like the old one.... so Malcolm borrowed Mikes dinghy and takes both to Budget Marine where the sales guy finally sees the problem - we actually have an 18 H.P. With a 9.8 sticker on the back!!!!! This is great since anything over a 15 H.P. will get stolen so once again we are safe -ish.
Meanwhile we have also had time to watch the 32nd Heineken Regatta and do some of the parties afterwards with some of our friends. We get French wine here on the French side for about the same price as Ali does in France . Also fresh Baguettes and croissants too The French seem to like being part of the European community (one E =$1.32).
I have been busy making a new sun shelter for the Front end and one for over the boom, I'm using the cheap stuff I got in Morocco so don't know how long it will last. It's too windy here to try them out. I also made a wind funnel from the old canopy.
   We ended up getting a second hand American gas tank from ‘Meow’ it has been filled and given a good clean and is already in service. This week has seen the end of the stronger winds and most people are taking advantage of the great sailing conditions to head onwards.  Fair winds to Bellatrix, L’esprit de la Mer, and  Melvin who are heading for the BVI’s.  By the time you all read this we will be in San Croix (an American Island)  We are setting off tomorrow afternoon since it is a 16-24 hour sail and we want to arrive on Monday if ‘Piano’ will let us!  Fingers crossed….
 

23rd Feb St Martin

        We finally reach the Anse Marcel endpoint at last a beach for me to lie on (together with the hotel residents on beach chairs)  The water a pleasant 25C and powder gold sands.  Malcolm heads off to pick up t he car.  Next drive back to the marina and on to ‘Piano’ where after a cold ‘President’ and finally re fitting the Yankee in nil wind I cook Pork in mushroom sauce with Garlic mash and veg.
  I decide that I have had sufficient of walking so I take Malcolm right to the top of a mountain/hill where we both have a look at the view and I then continue to Grand Case to read on the beach.  A couple of hours later Malcolm finds me but in a strop… he started out well but the path soon disappeared so he had to back track and waste time looking for another.  Needless to say with no luck he ended up following the road and was not a happy bunny when he arrived.  A good job I had saved a cool beer for him !
  Final day with the car and we go into Philipsburg to get an underwater camera.  Another Pentax which will also replace the old Optio which has been superb so far but which is beginning to play up.  I also take the opportunity to do a bookswap at the Business Centre.




Sunday 19th February.
 

  We travel into Marigot to watch the Carnival!  We are told to be there by 12 noon but nothing going on, so I ask a troop of taxi drivers what time it all begins and they say not ‘til 2 or 2.30! Ok so a short walk along the board walk and then a light lunch followed by a bowl of chips to fill me up. 3.30 and still no Carnival… so we wait around until we hear some loud music… then it all begins just in time we have missed the first few trailers but the following are very good. I mean LOUD music banks of speakers banked up around the front and back of the trailers.  Each float has a number and it’s final placing number.  No order to the procession but by the time they reach us they are wilting with the heat and dancing.  The new camera has a mind of it’s own.  I let it choose it’s own features and hope for the best. (fingers crossed). 
   Monday—Malcolm needs a day shopping for a new propeller for the new outboard— hey yes—plus new anodes, of course we also need salad stuff and fresh greens too, we finish at Barnacles for happy hour and have a chat with ‘Blackthorne Lady’ and ‘Mervin’ telling them we hope to travel to Grand Case on Tuesday.
  Second day of no problems we have a fine sail around the island and finish up anchoring in Grand Case Bay—who is just leaving but ‘Anna’ aboard her catamaran together with umpteen guests.  After tea we go ashore for their Carnival,  the street party and at last a lobster dinner– yummy.
Ok back to the Lagoon, where the freezer needs another look, it is up to its' old tricks!