Trinidad - some fun

After a most welcome break from the heat and humidity-plus visiting our cottage and many dear friends (A HUGE THANK-YOU to all those who gave us such splendid hospitality in the way of bed and board—John & Vi, Shirley & David, Adrienne and mum.)  We only missed a few other local friends and look forward to seeing some of you next year !
  We arrived back in Trinidad amidst some trepidation.  A nine o’clock curfew has been imposed in some areas so we were lucky to have arranged a taxi who had a curfew pass to get us home.  Even so the police stopped him to check his pass.  ‘Piano’ was cool and just as we had left her so we went straight to bed after nearly 24 hours travelling.
  Needless to say my body clock was still on BST so I was awake with the birds. We told the cruising net that we were back and found that there was a ‘Pot Luck’ night tonight at another yard. Most of the unpacking stowed and breakfast over we then cycled to immigration to sign in and purchase food for this evening.
Immigration went well and we extended our stay until mid November (the end of the hurricane season here)  This cost us $200TT which we had returned the next day as it had been taken in error!
  Even though the morning had been warm & showery the evening was dry and the ’Pot Luck’ at Coral Cove was a great success.  A whole bunch of new people, some of whom we have met on our travels.  We had an interesting talk with a couple from Brazil who have built and sailed a Viking Long boat all the way here from Rio De Janeiro!
  Friday we took the Maxi bus shopping and stocked up on all the essentials not available at the marina stores.
Saturday we got stuck into boat jobs. (Note to self I really get a fair amount of work done when I wake up so early) scrubbing the spray hood which we hadn’t packed away.  Being that mustard colour it does show the dirt...and began sanding the crustaceans from the propeller.
Sunday, (the hottest day yet!) we finished off polishing the propeller, and managed to get the boom fittings free.  Next plenty of hammering to remove the end of the boom.  Played Mexican train Dominoes in torrential rain at Coral Cove-and didn’t come last!
  Trinidad Independence Day and we secure tickets to the Starlift Pan Brunch.  This is held each year to raise money for the carnival and other worthy causes. Due to start at 11 am with the National Anthem things happened slowly.  By the time that proceedings began it was time for ‘Brunch’ which was traditional Trinidadian Cuisine.  The Steel Pan music was wonderful too all pictures are on Picasa

 Start of a new week and the jobs are being dealt with in succession. Graham came to remove the sea-cock for the engine which needed a new through the hull part and a good cleaning, Malcolm then had access to clean the generator sea-cock and the sink too.  It seems a quick job but took nearly 3 days on and off.  Meanwhile, with the new cleaning material the rope stripper has also been cleaned and awaits refitting.
  Monday evening we went to a Potluck at Trinidad and; Tobago Sailing Assoc. (TTSA from now!)  A pleasant evening meeting those who are at anchor round the corner from us.

 Wednesday the automatic bilge pump started again and after an investigation Malcolm found that the hot water tank is leaking from it’s valve, as a temporary answer he has turned it off so only look-warm foot pumped water until we get a replacement.  Next technician was Ian to have a look at the windlass (lifts & lowers the anchor)  He says it ought to be removed and serviced at least every 2 years ! Ooops—now we know! He has taken it away ‘til next Tuesday so I have my fingers crossed.
During all this fun & games plus I managed to bake a cake and 2 Quiches & a chicken pie for the social events this week.  So Thursday evening we went to the Sundowners/Hors d’oeuvres/book/DVD swap evening at Coral Cove.
Friday spent at the laundrette and preparing for the hike tomorrow.

Trinidad Arrival

Another wonderful evening/overnight sail! Plenty of wind and a few ships to avoid with AIS my watch 21.00-12.00 went smoothly, just a few Dolphins cavorting in the moonlight, then off to sleep and I’m called at 07.00 awake to the Trinidadian coastline.  We sign in with Customs/Immigration and Peakes Marina, then have a few hour more kip!
We have now been here just 10 days, two of them public holidays.
During which we unloaded the ‘cycles’ and went to The Trinidad & Tobago Yacht Club and around the coast here at Chaguaramas.
   Malcolm has now booked our flights home, earlier than we wanted due to lack of seats. Trinidad to Tobago on to Grenada then 9 hours to Gatwick.  A fraught day when we expected to land into a general strike, only time will tell.  Meanwhile, we organise a complete cover for the topsides to protect ’Piano’ from UV & sunlight.  Sam came to wash and put a layer of polish on the hull to protect it from the ravages of the atmosphere.  Richard has just fitted the air-conditioning and it is pleasantly cool down below for a change (26ºC and humidity only 48%).
The whole Peakes team has been to reposition ’Piano’ so that she is now level and has a rigid cradle to satisfy the insurers.
We have been loading gear from the outside lockers to a storage room so that we have a space to fill when we start doing work below decks and need to empty interior lockers.
  During an odd hour we give ‘Crescendo’ a well needed scrub and her outboard has been flushed through with fresh water ready for Hurricane storage in ashore.  The Bimini has been taken down ready for storing too.  It’s all going very well.

On the social side, we had Vicky and Porter ( Cinnamon Teal) over for sundowners. Vicky has a large hand in the Cruisers net here and knows all there is to about everything!  She organises Dominoes (afternoon) and a Cruisers BBQ on a Sunday evening we went along with our next door neighbours Penny and Chris last night.  About 30 people were there and we gained many more friends from various parts of the world.  It was a truly International event.
This evening we are able to have a farewell swim & drink with Mary & James who arrived yesterday while I was playing Dominoes.  They didn’t have such a good crossing from Grenada—I’ll get the details later.

Whispher Bay

We are in Whispher Bay
Saturday  11th June, Bus ride to Grand E’tang then we walk the Lake Trail.  It’s a nice walk however quite muddy in places better for the dry season maybe. Native Mona Monkeys live here but we only see a couple at the end of the walk.
Sunday 12th, BBQ on the beach at Hoggs Island Chicken Callalooo and Potato salad plus cold Caribs.
Monday 13th June, there was a holiday (Whitsun ?)so that meant a VERY LOUD party on Sunday evening. We were still both awake 0100 when Malcolm did a boat check and found the Avon (Crescendo) missing! The wind was ashore so we thought ok we'll look downwind in the morning....We announced on the Yachties 'net' what had happened and if anyone saw it would they bring it back/ help us look for it /take us to get a new one/ etc etc. Ok so one guy answers our plea and has seen a lone dinghy on his way to us so he & Malcolm go investigate and YES it is Crescendo minus the fuel tank (but even that is good news) Our new friend Tony then finds a local fisherman who has an old Yamaha tank for sale and takes Malcolm to buy it, we have a spare line aboard so all we need is a squeegee thing and Tony says he has a spare! so we are mobile again before lunch !  We invited Tony round for sundowners but he said no come over to him which we did and had a jolly good session with him and his wife Sharon
Tuesday 14th, Round the Island tour with Clemant Baptiste. We took a picnic lunch and set off at 8.30 then walked down to the pick-up point at Nimrod (Juniors) Rum Shop. We were there for 0900, but Clemant apologised at 10.45 that he had been held up.  No problem we travel to Port Louis where he gives us the history of the invasions to date.  Port Louis Marina was named by Peter De Savery in honour of the old capital which was bombed during a bout of firing.  There are 4 other Forts on the Island.  We then proceeded around the coast road, such that we could see all the Bays along the way to Halifax.  Our next stop was Concord Falls— a short climb down some steps to the pool below but I wasn’t tempted to take a swim in the cool mountain waters!
Back aboard the air-conditioned mini van we continued though Gouyave and Victoria right up to Duquesne Bay and Sauteurs.  From this outlook we could just make out Petite Martinique and Carriacou.  By now it’s almost lunch time but there is one more stop and that is the Rivers Rum Factory.  Where out guide did an admirable job of explaining the process of squeezing the sugar cane to extract the juice. This is then piped to traditional bowls to be evaporated and fermented to about 16%. This then passes to the distiller a few times until 79% is reached which is then bottled, the remainder continues until the higher specific gravity is reached.
Lunch for the 10 other travellers was at the Chocolate Factory.  We ate our picnic in the shade.
  After lunch we continued homeward through the disused Pearls Airport and Grenville towards St David’s Harbour and then back to Lower Woburn and Whispher Bay.
Wednesday 15th, Malcolm went into town for more money and supplies while I terrified myself aboard in the worst squall of the trip.  The sky was black and the winds heeled the boat as though we were sailing! And I could barely see the shore!
Thursday 16th sign out of Grenada and slip for Peakes Marina in Trinidad

Prickeley bay

2nd June
   Anchored off the point into a bit of a swell but not too bad. Had lunch and chilled out.
  Went ashore to the Regis outlet and Mike came aboard to run tests on the new Battery Charger. Both he and Malcolm decided that the differences in the AVO readings are within the tolerances of it’s specifications.  Malcolm is happy with Mikes explanation and so we go with what he tells us.

Next we head for the supermarket to stock up on shopping then had a beer to cool off.
2nd June,  No rain overnight well not much so up fresh and early.  Malcolm nips in to the chandlers for a new length of wire for the external anode.  We set off for a secluded Bay where there will be less rolling and straight into a very confused sea. Since this is only a short motor we continue until the engine begins to cough and splutter– and the dies completely!  We decide to return to St Georges since this is where the best technicians are and a calm spot too.  The sailing was slow but enjoyable and gave us time to think.  Maybe the confused sea and huge swell had stirred up the gunk at the bottom of the fuel tank ??  We anchor under sail and have a slap up Club Sandwich for lunch then get started draining the gunk and changing the fuel filters.  Yes there is gunk a plenty!
Friday 3rd. A phone call away and Ricado says he will come to clean the fuel and tank either Sunday or Tuesday so we go into Grenada Yacht Club to find James and Marie.  A discussion and then lunch aboard it is decided that James will comes out and fix a spare diesel can straight to the engine so that we can motor straight in.  Bingo what a great idea Merci Beaucuop James!
Sunday 5th, Ricado arrives with team and proceeds to drain the gunk and water of which he says we have 50 litres or so.  It then takes 3 hours to run all the good fuel though the high tech filters to be cleaned.  Only when he is satisfied that the engine runs does he begin to clear up and depart.  Malcolm is then able to change the oil filters and we are a happy boat again.
Monday 6th. A set of credit cards arrives –just one more set and  Malcolm may even crack a smile.  We have Marie and Jean Jacque over for dinner to say a big thanks for all their help.
Tuesday 7th, we go out to anchor again and the nice guy from Port Louis Marina comes out in his rib to deliver the second envelope we were expecting and yes there are smiles.
Wednesday 8th, We set off again for Clarkes Court Bay/ Whisper Bay. After a windy start we have a brilliant sail and arrived in a beautific peaceful Bay.

25th May Grenada

The sail to Grenada was ace! We averaged 6 knots and did 7.5 quite a bit too. We berthed at Port Louis Marina in time for Tea.  It is a very up-market marina with pool, private beach, de-luxe showers, free broadband wi-fi, TV, and the staff and security guys are wonderfully helpful.
  As soon as we are hooked up to the internet we get an email from Marie & Jean that they are moored opposite at the yacht club.
27th May. A short walk into St Georges for some cash and we meet Marie & Jean on their way home, so we suggest sundowners later.  The rest of the day is spent around the pool and shopping for vegetables.
28th May, We accompany Marie & Jean to the beach at Grand Anse  for a picnic lunch.  All goes well until after lunch and we see a black cloud so make a dash for home.  Unfortunately for them Marie & Jean almost loose their outboard when the glue detaches the holding board from the dinghy! He managed to hold onto it AND nurse the inflatable home in one piece well done to him of course we have already got home and don’t know of the mishap until the next day.
29th May.  A major shopping expedition to Grand Anse where there is an American Supermarket.  In the foyer are some ladies selling home made cookies etc—just like the W.I. Producers at home!  They turned out to be American ex pats and were doing quite a trade.  Well we filled a trolley and managed to cram it all into the largest of our rucksacks each carrying bags too.  Luckily we were spotted by a bus which pulled up and waited for us to board.  We used a boat trolley back at the marina! Then chilled out by the pool for the remainder of the day. There was no rain until after bedtime and only then enough to fill the solar shower.
30th May. A Sunday, generally grey and drizzely so we decide to go to the Grand E’tang for a nature walk, except the buses are not as frequent as during the week so we give up and decide to do Fort George—a 10 minute walk up hill, when we arrive it too is closed (note to self chill out on a Sunday– or go shopping) so we return to ‘Piano’ and I make a cake and bread, while Malcolm cleans the water filter and the sink pipes.  It all smells lovely now.
31st May. (Holiday in UK) Up early and took several buses through Grenville (where we had lunch Grenadan style) to the Belmont Estate which is a coffee and Chocolate grower and producer.  We went with Marie and Jean who had been before and recommended it.  The guided tour was superb given by Kelly, who preferred to do tours than work at the process to make the chocolate ready for manufacturing up to 80% cocoa solids.   After picking the pods the beans are emptied into a trough to remove extraneous vegetable matter, stones leaves etc.  They are then piled into a wooden compost box looking place and covered with banana leaves to insulate them while they ferment for 8 days.  Then they are spread out to dry onto large trays and covered with hoods rather like they use at Wimbledon.  The ladies shuffle through the beans, barefooted, to turn them over so that they dry evenly.  If they are to be exported they are then polished otherwise they go straight for roasting and processing into chocolate.  Yes we tasted the samples 60% and 80% yum yum.  We also had a look around the museum and grounds.
1st, June—a short sail around to Prickley Bay

Union Island

Once again a fast sail and I helmed all the way ! - well it was only a couple of hours…  A special treat since we have no fresh vegetables aboard we eat ashore. Red Snapper and unusual veg plus rice and coleslaw and Real CHIPS!!!
17th May, Shopping in the quaint village of Clifton.  It is quiet and provincial. but, so colourful! Also very friendly.  The weather being more like I would have expected a tropical summers day we decide to go snorkelling on the reef which encloses the bay. ( See images in picasa) The water is soo clear! It looks as though there may have been some catastrophe the sea floor looks damaged with signs of regrowth and still plenty of colourful fish.  The fauna included—the biggest Diadem sea urchin I have ever seen a small lobster and a sea fan (I think).
18th May, Went ashore early to catch the coolest weather of the day. Walked to Ashton where I found a shady spot to wait while Malcolm walked across to Chatham Bay and the surrounding area.  Back aboard ’Piano’ by 12 noon for late coffee and then lunch.   Most people have left the anchorage so we signed out of the Grenadines and motored round to Chatham Bay to anchor in a peaceful spot.   Went ashore for a beer where we met Jeffrey Osborne –King who has started a beach resort with a pool, restaurant, and bar.  He has moorings and offers a free meal to any captain bringing his guests ashore.  He also offers water from his desalination plant even if you only have a beer!  Look out for him in Doyles’ next Cruising book, I’m sure he will be in it. 
19th May, Short sail to Carriacou, where we anchored near ‘Felice’ (Andy & Pam) quick trip into town for some basics then a swim.
20th May, the anchor would not hold even after 4 attempts so we moved to a more sandy spot,  however this took all day so only  managed to bake a cake and do some washing!
21st May, Finally managed to get ashore and took a bus to Gun Point from where we hiked towards Windward, detouring down to Watering Bay via a conch lined path.  Naturally when we get to the water we are on our own at a blissful beach!  Back to the road and onto Windward-this is where the locals build boats on the shore by eye! They can win races against modern yachts too.
Carriacou is the least most tourist disrupted Island we have been to so far. Yes there are supermarkets and fruit & veg vendors but all very low key.
  There being no need to sit in the wind we decide to sit at a buoy off Sandy Island.  This is perfect, no ferry wash and a gorgeous sandy beach to look out onto. Terns, Black-headed gulls, Frigate birds and a couple of Pelicans wheel about overhead.  The snorkelling is by far the best so far and a welcome break from the baking sun.
23rd May, we motor round to Tyrell Bay.  Here there is a thriving yacht community some of who live here permanently (no wonder!)  There are maybe 40 yachts anchored peacefully here in a huge expanse of water.  Plus we have a resident fish happily digging around the anchor chain-sorry I’ve no idea what it is.
24th May , A quiet day snorkelling dare I say it the best yet! -apart from some invisible stingy things in the water -ouch.  The veg situation is non-existent apart from cans leftover from the Atlantic Crossing so we need to travel to Grenada tomorrow for some real shops.

The Grenadines May 2011

  We sail into Britannia Bay, Mustique and settle on a mooring for $200EC for 3, nights then have lunch.  Malcolm goes snorkelling.
Next day we walk the southern end of the Island, via a beach path, skirting a patch of land called Old Plantation, which has up-market picnic spots.  Some even have a built in BBQ for use.  There is no charge, but you are asked to book if you want to use one.  Next we wend our way though the end of the nature reserve.  This is a natural salt pond, with interpretive boards.  There are many birds and lizards too.  Now we hike uphill (but not too steep) towards Deep Bay.  On the way we see Tortoises! Next is Obsidian Bay but not sufficiently shady for lunch so we press on and find a delightful probably Black Sand Bay, which we have to ourselves.  It has too many waves to swim or snorkel so we just chill out and cool off in the surf.  After lunch we continue back to Britannia Bay for a glass of ice cold water or three.   We anchor Crescendo in sand –oops it’s become detached from the boat...  I try diving for it but it’s too deep for me so I suggest a quick dive with scuba gear. A big event to don all the dive gear for my first solo dive! YES I successfully retrieved the lost anchor.  Then we go snorkelling.  Spectacular over a reef with many kinds of fish.
 We invite Marie and Jon Jack across for sundowners and they respond by asking us over the following evening.
Day 2 Britannia Bay.
  Another hike ashore, this time though the Lovell village and up to the communication tower.  Passing the Post office ,school and Police Station We stop at a marvellous library So cool with it’s air conditioning and get a map.  Then onto Endeavour Bay where we stop for a cool drink and watch the tourists being pampered by the waiters.  Now we have a map with all the names of the houses, most with signs to deter tourists from wandering in.  We next find ’L’Ansecoy Bay’ for another swim.  More Tortoises and a short walk brings us back to Britannia Bay and completes our first tour of Mustique.

11th May Mustique to Canouan

This just a short sail of maybe 4 hours. Jean Jacques and Marie-Christine are away before us but end up at the same anchorage.
We go ashore for a few groceries and then with a small lunch hike across the island to it’s eastern side where there is a reef to snorkel. When we get there the beach is not so wonderful and the sea state is not good for snorkelling.  We eat lunch and then Malcolm sets off to do some more hill hiking and I return to Charleston Bay where there is a perfect spot under a tree and crystal clear blue azure water. A gentle breeze and this is my idea of paradise!  The only interruption is a small yellow crab who comes to investigate the stranger in his territory.  We eye each other for a couple of minutes and then he runs for home.
Back aboard for afternoon tea and we see a turtle or two in the water.
  That evening we end up ashore at the Pirate Cove Bar with Jean & Marie for sundowners. Mine is a ‘Canouan Sunset’ - and looks rather like a Tequila Sunset but is made instead with Caribbean White Rum.

13th May Canouan to the Tobago Keys.

Even shorter just 3 hours anchor to anchor. It’s surprising how exhilarating this fast sailing is, Malcolm slept for the rest of the afternoon while I finished my book and updated the blog story ready for uploading.  Once again the water is not so wonderful for snorkelling and there is quite a wind blowing for fun in the water.  I’ll wait and see what tomorrow brings before I take any photos.
14th May Tobago Keys
  Yes I’m glad that I waited! The boat boy delivered croissants at 8.30 First thing we moved ‘Piano’ from her mooring buoy 50 yards to the right nicely at anchor. We took ‘Crescendo’ of to another mooring buoy (no charge) so that we could snorkel. The water was still a bit rough but we persevered and it was well worth it. In some places the coral? Or seaweed colonies grow almost to the surface.  Fish of all colour and description abound along with the old familiars like Parrotfish and Napoleon fish.  Needless to say we had a large appetite for the croissants with coffee.
   Suitably filled we set off again this time for the Nature Reserve.  Imagine the Azure sea, white sand and green pebbles. (probably Malachite).  There is a signboard with do’s and don’ts in English so other Nationalities probably get caught.  A walk around the small Island acquaints us with many Iguanas and birds, not to mention the most idyllic views out to sea.

  On the way back to ‘Piano’ we see more turtles which I think are possibly Green Sea Turtles since they are so big.  Now is when I get the camera out for some new desk top wallpaper….

15th May, Sunday a day of rest for the croissant man and the park keepers who collect money! The morning spent cleaning shoes and the coat locker.  After coffee snorkelling, then lunch bake a chocolate cake but little to fill it with so I use up the honey which is almost all sugar so needs warming up.  More snorkelling, tea, & chilling out.
16th May, Monday the nicest day here yet. We decide to take ‘Piano’ to the deserted Island which we have been looking out onto. Take a walk around it and then sail on to Union Island.