Prickeley bay

2nd June
   Anchored off the point into a bit of a swell but not too bad. Had lunch and chilled out.
  Went ashore to the Regis outlet and Mike came aboard to run tests on the new Battery Charger. Both he and Malcolm decided that the differences in the AVO readings are within the tolerances of it’s specifications.  Malcolm is happy with Mikes explanation and so we go with what he tells us.

Next we head for the supermarket to stock up on shopping then had a beer to cool off.
2nd June,  No rain overnight well not much so up fresh and early.  Malcolm nips in to the chandlers for a new length of wire for the external anode.  We set off for a secluded Bay where there will be less rolling and straight into a very confused sea. Since this is only a short motor we continue until the engine begins to cough and splutter– and the dies completely!  We decide to return to St Georges since this is where the best technicians are and a calm spot too.  The sailing was slow but enjoyable and gave us time to think.  Maybe the confused sea and huge swell had stirred up the gunk at the bottom of the fuel tank ??  We anchor under sail and have a slap up Club Sandwich for lunch then get started draining the gunk and changing the fuel filters.  Yes there is gunk a plenty!
Friday 3rd. A phone call away and Ricado says he will come to clean the fuel and tank either Sunday or Tuesday so we go into Grenada Yacht Club to find James and Marie.  A discussion and then lunch aboard it is decided that James will comes out and fix a spare diesel can straight to the engine so that we can motor straight in.  Bingo what a great idea Merci Beaucuop James!
Sunday 5th, Ricado arrives with team and proceeds to drain the gunk and water of which he says we have 50 litres or so.  It then takes 3 hours to run all the good fuel though the high tech filters to be cleaned.  Only when he is satisfied that the engine runs does he begin to clear up and depart.  Malcolm is then able to change the oil filters and we are a happy boat again.
Monday 6th. A set of credit cards arrives –just one more set and  Malcolm may even crack a smile.  We have Marie and Jean Jacque over for dinner to say a big thanks for all their help.
Tuesday 7th, we go out to anchor again and the nice guy from Port Louis Marina comes out in his rib to deliver the second envelope we were expecting and yes there are smiles.
Wednesday 8th, We set off again for Clarkes Court Bay/ Whisper Bay. After a windy start we have a brilliant sail and arrived in a beautific peaceful Bay.

25th May Grenada

The sail to Grenada was ace! We averaged 6 knots and did 7.5 quite a bit too. We berthed at Port Louis Marina in time for Tea.  It is a very up-market marina with pool, private beach, de-luxe showers, free broadband wi-fi, TV, and the staff and security guys are wonderfully helpful.
  As soon as we are hooked up to the internet we get an email from Marie & Jean that they are moored opposite at the yacht club.
27th May. A short walk into St Georges for some cash and we meet Marie & Jean on their way home, so we suggest sundowners later.  The rest of the day is spent around the pool and shopping for vegetables.
28th May, We accompany Marie & Jean to the beach at Grand Anse  for a picnic lunch.  All goes well until after lunch and we see a black cloud so make a dash for home.  Unfortunately for them Marie & Jean almost loose their outboard when the glue detaches the holding board from the dinghy! He managed to hold onto it AND nurse the inflatable home in one piece well done to him of course we have already got home and don’t know of the mishap until the next day.
29th May.  A major shopping expedition to Grand Anse where there is an American Supermarket.  In the foyer are some ladies selling home made cookies etc—just like the W.I. Producers at home!  They turned out to be American ex pats and were doing quite a trade.  Well we filled a trolley and managed to cram it all into the largest of our rucksacks each carrying bags too.  Luckily we were spotted by a bus which pulled up and waited for us to board.  We used a boat trolley back at the marina! Then chilled out by the pool for the remainder of the day. There was no rain until after bedtime and only then enough to fill the solar shower.
30th May. A Sunday, generally grey and drizzely so we decide to go to the Grand E’tang for a nature walk, except the buses are not as frequent as during the week so we give up and decide to do Fort George—a 10 minute walk up hill, when we arrive it too is closed (note to self chill out on a Sunday– or go shopping) so we return to ‘Piano’ and I make a cake and bread, while Malcolm cleans the water filter and the sink pipes.  It all smells lovely now.
31st May. (Holiday in UK) Up early and took several buses through Grenville (where we had lunch Grenadan style) to the Belmont Estate which is a coffee and Chocolate grower and producer.  We went with Marie and Jean who had been before and recommended it.  The guided tour was superb given by Kelly, who preferred to do tours than work at the process to make the chocolate ready for manufacturing up to 80% cocoa solids.   After picking the pods the beans are emptied into a trough to remove extraneous vegetable matter, stones leaves etc.  They are then piled into a wooden compost box looking place and covered with banana leaves to insulate them while they ferment for 8 days.  Then they are spread out to dry onto large trays and covered with hoods rather like they use at Wimbledon.  The ladies shuffle through the beans, barefooted, to turn them over so that they dry evenly.  If they are to be exported they are then polished otherwise they go straight for roasting and processing into chocolate.  Yes we tasted the samples 60% and 80% yum yum.  We also had a look around the museum and grounds.
1st, June—a short sail around to Prickley Bay

Union Island

Once again a fast sail and I helmed all the way ! - well it was only a couple of hours…  A special treat since we have no fresh vegetables aboard we eat ashore. Red Snapper and unusual veg plus rice and coleslaw and Real CHIPS!!!
17th May, Shopping in the quaint village of Clifton.  It is quiet and provincial. but, so colourful! Also very friendly.  The weather being more like I would have expected a tropical summers day we decide to go snorkelling on the reef which encloses the bay. ( See images in picasa) The water is soo clear! It looks as though there may have been some catastrophe the sea floor looks damaged with signs of regrowth and still plenty of colourful fish.  The fauna included—the biggest Diadem sea urchin I have ever seen a small lobster and a sea fan (I think).
18th May, Went ashore early to catch the coolest weather of the day. Walked to Ashton where I found a shady spot to wait while Malcolm walked across to Chatham Bay and the surrounding area.  Back aboard ’Piano’ by 12 noon for late coffee and then lunch.   Most people have left the anchorage so we signed out of the Grenadines and motored round to Chatham Bay to anchor in a peaceful spot.   Went ashore for a beer where we met Jeffrey Osborne –King who has started a beach resort with a pool, restaurant, and bar.  He has moorings and offers a free meal to any captain bringing his guests ashore.  He also offers water from his desalination plant even if you only have a beer!  Look out for him in Doyles’ next Cruising book, I’m sure he will be in it. 
19th May, Short sail to Carriacou, where we anchored near ‘Felice’ (Andy & Pam) quick trip into town for some basics then a swim.
20th May, the anchor would not hold even after 4 attempts so we moved to a more sandy spot,  however this took all day so only  managed to bake a cake and do some washing!
21st May, Finally managed to get ashore and took a bus to Gun Point from where we hiked towards Windward, detouring down to Watering Bay via a conch lined path.  Naturally when we get to the water we are on our own at a blissful beach!  Back to the road and onto Windward-this is where the locals build boats on the shore by eye! They can win races against modern yachts too.
Carriacou is the least most tourist disrupted Island we have been to so far. Yes there are supermarkets and fruit & veg vendors but all very low key.
  There being no need to sit in the wind we decide to sit at a buoy off Sandy Island.  This is perfect, no ferry wash and a gorgeous sandy beach to look out onto. Terns, Black-headed gulls, Frigate birds and a couple of Pelicans wheel about overhead.  The snorkelling is by far the best so far and a welcome break from the baking sun.
23rd May, we motor round to Tyrell Bay.  Here there is a thriving yacht community some of who live here permanently (no wonder!)  There are maybe 40 yachts anchored peacefully here in a huge expanse of water.  Plus we have a resident fish happily digging around the anchor chain-sorry I’ve no idea what it is.
24th May , A quiet day snorkelling dare I say it the best yet! -apart from some invisible stingy things in the water -ouch.  The veg situation is non-existent apart from cans leftover from the Atlantic Crossing so we need to travel to Grenada tomorrow for some real shops.

The Grenadines May 2011

  We sail into Britannia Bay, Mustique and settle on a mooring for $200EC for 3, nights then have lunch.  Malcolm goes snorkelling.
Next day we walk the southern end of the Island, via a beach path, skirting a patch of land called Old Plantation, which has up-market picnic spots.  Some even have a built in BBQ for use.  There is no charge, but you are asked to book if you want to use one.  Next we wend our way though the end of the nature reserve.  This is a natural salt pond, with interpretive boards.  There are many birds and lizards too.  Now we hike uphill (but not too steep) towards Deep Bay.  On the way we see Tortoises! Next is Obsidian Bay but not sufficiently shady for lunch so we press on and find a delightful probably Black Sand Bay, which we have to ourselves.  It has too many waves to swim or snorkel so we just chill out and cool off in the surf.  After lunch we continue back to Britannia Bay for a glass of ice cold water or three.   We anchor Crescendo in sand –oops it’s become detached from the boat...  I try diving for it but it’s too deep for me so I suggest a quick dive with scuba gear. A big event to don all the dive gear for my first solo dive! YES I successfully retrieved the lost anchor.  Then we go snorkelling.  Spectacular over a reef with many kinds of fish.
 We invite Marie and Jon Jack across for sundowners and they respond by asking us over the following evening.
Day 2 Britannia Bay.
  Another hike ashore, this time though the Lovell village and up to the communication tower.  Passing the Post office ,school and Police Station We stop at a marvellous library So cool with it’s air conditioning and get a map.  Then onto Endeavour Bay where we stop for a cool drink and watch the tourists being pampered by the waiters.  Now we have a map with all the names of the houses, most with signs to deter tourists from wandering in.  We next find ’L’Ansecoy Bay’ for another swim.  More Tortoises and a short walk brings us back to Britannia Bay and completes our first tour of Mustique.

11th May Mustique to Canouan

This just a short sail of maybe 4 hours. Jean Jacques and Marie-Christine are away before us but end up at the same anchorage.
We go ashore for a few groceries and then with a small lunch hike across the island to it’s eastern side where there is a reef to snorkel. When we get there the beach is not so wonderful and the sea state is not good for snorkelling.  We eat lunch and then Malcolm sets off to do some more hill hiking and I return to Charleston Bay where there is a perfect spot under a tree and crystal clear blue azure water. A gentle breeze and this is my idea of paradise!  The only interruption is a small yellow crab who comes to investigate the stranger in his territory.  We eye each other for a couple of minutes and then he runs for home.
Back aboard for afternoon tea and we see a turtle or two in the water.
  That evening we end up ashore at the Pirate Cove Bar with Jean & Marie for sundowners. Mine is a ‘Canouan Sunset’ - and looks rather like a Tequila Sunset but is made instead with Caribbean White Rum.

13th May Canouan to the Tobago Keys.

Even shorter just 3 hours anchor to anchor. It’s surprising how exhilarating this fast sailing is, Malcolm slept for the rest of the afternoon while I finished my book and updated the blog story ready for uploading.  Once again the water is not so wonderful for snorkelling and there is quite a wind blowing for fun in the water.  I’ll wait and see what tomorrow brings before I take any photos.
14th May Tobago Keys
  Yes I’m glad that I waited! The boat boy delivered croissants at 8.30 First thing we moved ‘Piano’ from her mooring buoy 50 yards to the right nicely at anchor. We took ‘Crescendo’ of to another mooring buoy (no charge) so that we could snorkel. The water was still a bit rough but we persevered and it was well worth it. In some places the coral? Or seaweed colonies grow almost to the surface.  Fish of all colour and description abound along with the old familiars like Parrotfish and Napoleon fish.  Needless to say we had a large appetite for the croissants with coffee.
   Suitably filled we set off again this time for the Nature Reserve.  Imagine the Azure sea, white sand and green pebbles. (probably Malachite).  There is a signboard with do’s and don’ts in English so other Nationalities probably get caught.  A walk around the small Island acquaints us with many Iguanas and birds, not to mention the most idyllic views out to sea.

  On the way back to ‘Piano’ we see more turtles which I think are possibly Green Sea Turtles since they are so big.  Now is when I get the camera out for some new desk top wallpaper….

15th May, Sunday a day of rest for the croissant man and the park keepers who collect money! The morning spent cleaning shoes and the coat locker.  After coffee snorkelling, then lunch bake a chocolate cake but little to fill it with so I use up the honey which is almost all sugar so needs warming up.  More snorkelling, tea, & chilling out.
16th May, Monday the nicest day here yet. We decide to take ‘Piano’ to the deserted Island which we have been looking out onto. Take a walk around it and then sail on to Union Island. 

Passage to Bequia 2nd May 2011.

Our friends aboard Mai Tia are still here at Rodney Bay Marina! So some catching up to do. First some book swaps then a look at their DVD collection to transfer to our hard drive.  Vincent comes back to look at the new inverter and suggests that his boss John has a look.  John is up on electrical/computer problems and it certainly looks as through there is a software problem.  He phones the team in the USA (who are almost the same time zone as us and speak our language and they suggest that we give the inverter a software update, this is tried but because it has a lower number it thinks that it is being downgraded so we have to convince it to take what we are trying to give it.
  This achieved (a couple of days later) and it seems to be working fine! Thanks John! Crescendo is repaired and brought home they have done a grand job glueing all the loose seams down too Thanks here to Francis and his team.  So just a few odd items and we are ready for the sail to Bequia.  I learn from various friends that we have missed the wedding of the century, but I catch up by watching the photos of who was there and the fashions on the web.
  Saturday we pay the Marina and sign out with customs to lay at anchor prior to sailing down to Vieux Fort.
  Sunday after loading Crescendo to first class seating we slipped for Vieux Fort.  This turned out to be slow (we motor-sailed against adverse currents) and wet (I used my new foulies for the first time!).  We almost stopped at Soufrière  again in despair but finally made it to the anchorage just after sundown.
  Monday, we set off from Vieux Fort for Bequia – up at 5 o’clock in the morning! just in case we have flukey winds and need the extra daylight to get there.  It turned out to be a fast beam reach with rain showers and Dolphin sightings so we got in at 14.40 in time for tea.  As dusk drew in so did the rain.  We are almost self sufficient in water with our Bimini drains catching up to 80L in a rainstorm.
  Tuesday 3rd May.  We hit Port Elizabeth in full sun and after a trip to the bank we head out to find a local diver to clean the barnacles from the hull.  Malcolm suspects that the through the hull holes are possibly being blocked which might account for the log reader intermittently stopping and the Yanmar trying to overheat on full power.  The owner of the dive shop recommended Fitzy and we managed to secure his services during the afternoon.  We celebrated with a Latte at Gingerbreads and happened to see Andy (from Felice) in his tender. Fitzy arrived as the heavens opened and got to work. We are now nice and clean again (just 1 1/2 hours with scuba gear). Mental note not to sit around idling in the Caribbean as the barnacles just love to grow in these warm waters. I made some more Ciabatta and cleaned the spray hood windows to keep myself busy.
Wednesday.  Port Elizabeth is the only town on the Island and seems very friendly probably because the ‘Yachties’ are a regular form of income to them.  The water is clear and blue until rainwater run-off clouds it to brown.  There looks to be good diving here and plenty of walks if we have time and inclination next year maybe.
Next day we move to Friendship Bay where we hope that it will be less rolly. Some hope! However a hike ashore is pleasant and we see the chap who sold us a crate of beer at wholesale prices.  He is mending his car but has time to wish us a good day. During the afternoon a Spanish sailor swims across to invite us for sundowners.  When we arrive we find that there are 7 aboard a charter boat and they have taken various holidays together over the years.  There week is almost up so we leave them to finish the liquor aboard.  They up anchor and are away before us in the morning.  We settle ‘Cresendo’ in her bunk and slip for Mustique a mere 7 Nm away.

April before Easter!

 (Grand Piton is the Farthest one)
Monday, we sailed back to St Lucia from Martinique, a fast run with full sun yippee this is the life!

Tuesday the fun begins, we first ask for Vincent to come around again to give advice, and searched for Prudent the gas fitter, then set off to find a Yamaha mechanic or a main dealer for a new propeller for Crescendo.
  Wednesday Prudent says he will be here tomorrow, and arrives the next day to tell us what we need—he’ll be back later—which ends up being Thursday and a final check on Friday.
Meanwhile Vincent gives good advice about the 80ah charger which Malcolm then rewires only to find that there must have been a power surge which blows a vital component, now we have to wait again either for a repair (unlikely) or a new charger.  On the bright side the new prop has been fitted and tightened with a torque wrench loaned by Les the guy who does the net in the mornings. 
  Having ordered a new 80ah charger which should be here by next week we decide to sail the Eastern coast of St Lucia stopping at anchorages along the way.  Since the rain is getting to us we begin at the farthest end at Vieux Fort.  The days sail was mixed bur quite slow.  Rain gear came out for the helm once or twice and the Iron Horse was given some exercise on the home stretch. By the time we had eaten on Monday evening we were tired and ready for bed.  The rain and the anchor alarum awakened Malcolm so he had a little lie in on Tuesday morning.  More rain that day gave us no incentive to go ashore so we decided to re-grout the bathroom and toilet.
  The day brightened up after lunch so we put some more air into Crescendo and went ashore. 
  During World War II the low lying land at the end of the Island created the ideal location for an American military airport.  This has now been updated and has become the International Airport. The town itself is well off the tourist tracks and so not as well off as Castries.  Having said that it contained all the regular shops and services.  We toured the town and then headed for the ‘Reef’ on Anse de Sables for a Piton or two.  If only the sun had been out! This is the biggest and most undeveloped beach on the Island!  The only concession to sport is a small Kite ‘n surf Centre which also sells the beers.  While we checked emails and watched a Kite-surfer race across to Maria Island and back a few dozen times.  I hope we get a chance to come again next year if the weather is better since this is a nature reserve and has a coral reef around it which is apparently great for snorkelling.
  We were going to set off for Soufrière on Wednesday morning but as it was raining again decided to see what tomorrow is like.
 Thursday, dry overnight but it started raining as we were about to leave.  Not for long though while I made bread it cleared up and we arrived in sunshine again. A small boat came out and told us he would help with picking up a mooring.  As Malcolm was making preparations we sailed straight into the most enormous piece of rope (probably a mooring line from a liner!) Fortunately another 'helper' boat came past and borrowed our snorkels to remove it from the propeller. (40 C$) Soon after the first boat came back for mooring (40C$) next the boat for getting produce  - 2 Tuna steaks and take away the rubbish (45C$) and the fruit & veg vendor (5C$) After lunch and a rest the Reserve warden came by for our mooring fee (54C/1 night or 104C$ for a week).  Seems quite expensive here.
  Malcolm went snorkelling to check the prop and see the wildlife and came back stung by tiny jellyfish—but he said it wasn’t as bad as mosquitoes!
  First trip ashore and we have a pleasant ‘jetty master’ take our lines. He works for Jouloise Plantation Hotel. Making sure that all along the beach runs smoothly.  We ask his advice about seeing the local sights and then have coffee to chew it over. We decide to go for a taxi ride to the Sulphur Springs/drive in volcano and waterfalls.  We are told by the guide that the whole of Soufrière is in the Caldera! Which even runs out under the sea.  This may account for the peculiar eddys which we have seen while sailing by.

Soufrière, (means “Sulphur in the air”) and not only thus but Hydrogen Sulphide too. Our Guide Suzette told us about the geology and morphology of the island and was very knowledgeable on plants too. She told us that this was part of the ‘Drive in Volcano’.  Personally I thought the Sulphur springs were not as impressive as Yellowstone or New Zealand.  Ed our driver then took us to a restaurant in Soufrière where we all had lunch.
 We next visited Piton Waterfall and hot springs. Where I decided to sample the spa facilities.  Luckily I had my bathing cossy with me (unlike Malcolm who took the pictures!) The rest of the afternoon we chilled out on the beach watching as cruise liner tourists got stung by the pesky jelly-fish.
  Sunday Malcolm hiked Grand Piton with his guide Teddy. He started at 6.30 and was back for lunch.
Monday began with an early morning snorkelling session wow what a wonderful assortment of fish and coral fans! Next a move of residence to Soufrière.  Here we were welcomed by Black headed gulls screeching.  We sorted the laptop and rucksacks plus empty petrol can and went into town.  First stop a wi-fi restaurant and yes the new battery charger has arrived at customs. A stroll through Soufrière which used to be St Lucias’ first town and was established by the French in 1746.  It has colonial style architecture and is overshadowed by the majestic Piton Mountains. We were stopped twice by guys wanting to show us around the Island but in both cases we told them all that we had seen so far.  The only thing left was Soufrière itself. We were recommended :  Diamond Falls Botanical Gardens, a 20 minute walk from the town center.  This was the highlight of the town.   Such a range of plants and trees. Slightly further on was Diamond Falls equally spectacular see Picasa. No swimming allowed though.  Next household chores shopping and the gas station then back to ‘Piano’ and a restful afternoon listening to the gulls again.
Tuesday a quick sail back to ‘Rodney Bay Marina’.

Martinique the last of March

Thursday, another tour this time the North East corner, via St Joseph, -a tiny hamlet in the heart of the mountains. Gros Morne—an agricultural area which also makes produce from its yields like rum, fruit juice and sweets.  St Marie  - steeped in Martinique's culture where we found more caterpillars feeding on Allamander leaves.  We ate Croissants here looking out over a pleasant sea view.  Then we continued on through Le Marigot,- a charming flower filled village with an amphitheatre facing the Atlantic Ocean. Le Lorraine— The Kingdom of the banana where they also brew beer.  Basse Pointe,- also noted for Bananas and pineapples. Macouba,- another distillery and a 17th century Church. Finally, Grand Rivière—at the Northern tip of the island and where the road ends.  During our picnic the local catch was being filleted and a dozen pelicans were on patrol nearby.  Our afternoon walk took us along one of the coastal paths towards Mont Pelée.  It may once have been a real road but is both steep and in bad repair but makes a brilliant hiking trail.  30 minutes higher with nice views Malcolm carried on upwards while I chilled out (as usual)
We then started the drive home.  Once getting as far as Le Morne Rouge we decided to take the over-land route through the mountains.  We were rewarded by some tremendous views.
 That just left the rush hour in Fort de France again andsome final shopping before we got home.
  Friday was spent defrosting the freezer again which appears to be only working on one side.  Rather a lot had to be cooked since it had defrosted –such a shame that Caroline and Jack aren’t here to help eat it all!
  Saturday, we tool the bus to the Museum de La Pagerie this being the maiden name of the Empress Josephine wife  of Napoleon Bonaparte.  She started out as an upper working class girl who married into the nobility about the time of the French Revolution.  She had two children (a boy and a girl) to her first husband, who lost his head to the guillotine.  She then came to the notice of a young Napoleon who then married her.  Unfortunately she could only give him daughters so he divorced her for another.  Meanwhile the Pagerie family fell on hard times (after a hurricane) and had to move from their house into the sugary refinery which they owned.  All that remains of the house is the foundations of the kitchen and the ruins of the sugar refinery.  After lunch back aboard we spent the afternoon on the beach.
   Sunday, We took the bus again round to Anse Diamant. The remains of an ancient volcano which earned its’ fame as a strategic stronghold.  The British first conquered it to place guns at its peak and from then on it was the fighting point for many years.  It faces on of the largest beaches in Martinique with coconut and sea grape trees for shade.  On the Southern coast it is open to the Atlantic channel and so has breakers most of the year but we weren’t here for the beach with only an hour and a half before the last bus back (Sunday timetable)  This was sufficient time to have a coffee and pastry. See the small town and a walk along the beach.  The bus ride out through stunning landscapes was well worth the €1.50 fare.

Monday, we sailed back to St Lucia, a fast and pleasant sail, now to see some more technicians...answer your emails and upload images to the Martinique folder and the St Lucia folder (this has taken 4 hours so I do hope you all enjoy it very few comments apart from those who have a Gmail addresses [thanks Robyn])