Carlisle Bay, Bridgetown, Barbados.

First let me say that the internet is poor here so I'll have to be brief.
We had a fantastic sail here from La Gomerra, in the Canaries.  Just 18 days straight down the wind with twin Yankees poled out most of the time. Some days we notched up 150 odd nautical miles.
  Since arriving we have been able to swim to the silver sands which they call the beach!  The weather is good, (understatement) but intermittent hot rain showers which last 2-10 minutes and are sooooo refreshing!
 Our friends aboard Folly are here as are Moosher and Life O Reilly.
  Ashore so far we have toured the South Eastern coast and seen the Orchid Gardens.  Travel around is easy with a regular bus service plus yellow buses and minivans in competition but for the same price BA$2 for any trip.
   We have some American friens coming out to St Barts so will probably sail there to see them, and then back to St Lucia where some English friends are having a holiday- but as you know plans change by the day....
  I'll try some pictures if this works

Happy New Year!

Here's wishing you all a very

Happy New Year

I don't know what happened with the sunset picture but as most of you know the internet here is abysmal! Most jobs and checking have been done and we are just waiting for our crew (Otto) to finish his celebrations before we seriously look for a weather window to depart. Fingers crossed all will go well.  I may write again before we leave but if not it will probably be February before I make an entry.

Cactus Garden and other sights.

Day 2 of Sightseeing and this was a fine sunny day so blue skies in all the images!

Today we visited the National Park of Timanfaya. We drove for a fair while inside the park through all the volcanic debris to an entrance where after paying the fee we were directed to a parking area. Since it was higher up I needed a woolly pulley. We were loaded onto a coach and given a guided tour of the exhibition area together with the relevant notes on eruptions etc.

Afterwards there were demonstrations of a burning bush, (is this what Moses did??) Then shown a hole in the wall which could be used as an oven—for ‘high’ settings, A grill which was used by the restaurant, and finally a geyser. In all well worth the visit. We then visited the National Park interpretive Center and learnt more about Volcanism in the Canaries

After lunch we continued via Teguise village to the Cactus Gardens. Another of Cesars Tourist attractions. His attention to detail with art in the loos and even cactus door handles to the coffee shop. Cacti images are on the windows live site.

I nearly forgot that we made a detour to see the Salt flats and Lago de los Clicos at El Golfo

On the way home we stopped by at the Campesino Monument and Maxmat for a new washing line and other boat bits.

  Then as we passed an Argentinean Restuarant decided to eat out. Wow fillet steak just like Buenos Aires!How good is that ? And now a nice sunset to end...

Lanzarote

Wednesday 1st December and we are still in T shirts! A fair wind so we had full sail & yankee to make 7 knots and a fast ride to Marina Rubicon.

The first job was to sort out us coming out to have the antifouling, anodes and various other jobs done prior to crossing the pond. There are holidays next week so it looks like the week after. The weather didn’t hold so more boat jobs and the dentist for Malcolm. We finally had a couple of days sightseeing. Images are on Picasa and ‘Windows Live’ people can see flora in the public folder there. I have also been playing with the blog facility on Friends Reunited which you may like to have a look at—if you do be sure to leave a comment then I’ll know if anyone uses it.

Lanzarote is not an endearing Island. It does have vegetation but most is low growing Lichens and shrubs. There is no variation in buildings predominantly which low level cubes. The exception was Cesar Manrique’s house which was just my cup of tea. Cesar was an artist in the fullest sense of the word, his mark is all over the Island, either as Paintings, Sculpts, pottery or tourist attractions. His house was built on his return from America and shows empathy with the volcanic surroundings. It is made on two levels more traditional rooms at ground level and his living area below ground level in rooms of converted bedrock (literally the gas bubbles formed during the last volcanic eruption). It was built during the mid sixties when tourism was just taking off on the Island. He promoted a model for Territorial Intervention based on sustainability based on the Islands natural heritage. In fact the success of this model led to Lanzarote becoming a World Biosphere Reserve in 1993 so I guess this is a larger form on WHS? He then became a planner and left his mark on many a roundabout and seafront. Once you have seen his house it is quite easy to spot his other works.

Next stop was the viewpoint Mirador del Rio. This was another of Cesars’ works to encourage tourism and has outstanding views over the channel to Graciosa. We continued round the coast road to Cueva de Los Verdes but the next tour was waiting for 20 more people to make up the 50 needed to run so knowing we were running late we gave it a miss and went straight onto Jameos del Aqua. This is another of Cesars works but this time an auditorium for concerts with extras for tourists. The steps down to the amphitheatre have been planted with cave loving ferns. There is also a lake with a protected species of freshwater crab, then up the stairs on the way out a swimming pool and interpretive center for the Island including much information on volcanoes and daily life. By the time we had read all the information there was barely sufficient time to do the shopping before home to dinner.

And yes I managed to put 2 images in this time!

Madeira

Funchal Market, Madeira.
 After driving into Funchal and then all the traffic jams to park we eventually found our way to the Market. Which was by far the most spectacular of all that we have shopped at during our time abroad.  The shop above was on the second floor and you may have guessed sold ‘Madeiran’ wine!  Of interest to the home producers were the peculiar fruits – hence the obscure pictures in Picasa.  We then walked along the main road to find the TIC office, get a good map and ideas of what else to see. There had been a fire top the highest peak so that was out! We came away with enough ideas to keep us busy. On the way back we passed the ‘Beatles’ yacht which is now a floating restaurant, various sculpts and (to make us feel at home) hot chestnut sellers.
  We began by driving along the coast stopping at various awesome viewpoints along the way.  Next a tortuous trip to the Nuns' Valley and back via Monte where we just missed the Botanic Gardens by an hour -but did see the local tourist sport of Sledge riding down the mountain road.  A brief stop at the supermarket yawn and by the time we got back we were weary travellers.
  The following day we had good directions from the Joanna in the marina office which were only thwarted by road works in the first 5 miles, hey ho, - we persevered and headed across the island over the mountains (where we had our usual picnic lunch) and then headed Eastwards to pick up the road back to Funchal and home.  Yes we had more spectacular views but as the day progressed the clouds came down and at the highest points managed to obscure the terrific views which we knew were lurking.
The Rest of the time in Madeira was spent aboard preparing for the short passage to the Canaries. Since the supermarket was a taxi ride away we decided that for a short trip we could manage with what we had on board.  The weather forecast was for very light winds at first (so possibly motoring) then some good stuff  but against us then bad blows against us.  I’m told that the prevailing winds from Madeira to the Canaries are always in our favour (sic).
The first day was wonderful, I cooked a delicious chicken casserole with potatoes and beans in the pressure cooker, and there was enough leftover for lunch the next day. The second day was bumpy and uncomfortable, the third dreadful. Nasty winds of the range 25-30 knots but gusting 40. The wind generator screaming it’s head off as usual due to not having been tied down.  Very little sail up at all but no need to motor! I was unable to be any help at all (what’s new) the auto –pilot working and in full control did all that was asked of it.  Malcolm was on watch the whole time making sail adjustments and tweaking this and that.  He did ask me to do a stint at watch keeping and by that time I was able to keep an eye on things while he had a brief rest.  All I managed was to fill in the log on the hour and grin and bear it.
  So as we arrived at Graciosa (remember Graciosa in the Azores ???) the wind had moderated and ‘Piano’ prepared for berthing.  Mooring lines and fenders at the ready we motored in very carefully-but there was no space for us so out into the channel again and on for another 3 hours to arrive at Puerto Naos Harbour on Lanzerote.  There were many other yachts with the same idea but we did manage to find a spot to drop the anchor.  I made a steak pie and fresh bread to lift our spirits.
  Next day and Jobs R. US. While Malcolm sorted out the loo (again) I had a blitz on the bathroom shower.  I must say that Ghislaine would be proud of me– it looks as good as new!  I made spaghetti Bolognese with a crisp green salad and the last of the Parmesan from Italy (thanks Maria) Pineapple tart with other fruits from the market on Madeira and Marscapone cream. The batteries were low by this time so the engine was started to recharge them, except nothing happened when I turned the key ( we both said “what now?”) count to ten and had another try– this time it started perfectly!!!! Phew With hot water we could now use the ‘new shower’ !
  Day two at anchor.  Today we sorted out the generator (again) First checked the seawater inlet and the tube was dry ! Next check the impeller and that water is now getting to the engine OK fire her up and bingo one generator fixed…… but a strong smell of diesel and yes there is a tiny squirt coming from a flexible tube so that will need replacing I haven’t seen any spare aboard so will look now.

Porto Santo, Madeiran Archipelago. 18th November 2010

We arrived at the Marina early afternoon ready for a nice cup of tea.  After mooring we checked in with the customs and marina office then settled into clearing away after the trip.  Sonia at the office had recommended a local restaurant who would also provide transport to & from our evening meal.  Such hospitality was accepted and we set a time of 7.30.  The chap who drove was also the proprietor and chef and he did us proud. Tired bunnies we then crashed out for the night.
  Early on Thursday we walked the 3 km into town and had a coffee on the way. Next stop the tourist office from where we got the local map and sights to see. We decided to do some shopping at Pingo Doce  and then get a taxi for a tour of the Island.  The groceries loaded we set off for a very pleasant couple of hours with a semi happy older taxi driver (Eric) who pointed out all the main highlights.
   Porto Santo is the smallest of the inhabited islands of the Madeiran Archipelago just under 500 miles from Rabat, Morocco.  It was first discovered  in 1418 by Portuguese fishermen.  The Island boasts 9 km of fine golden sandy beaches and crystalline waters.  The calciferous seawater is a pull for health freaks and a selling point for health holidays.  As our driver told us most of the new housing in evidence is in fact holiday homes for  people from Madeira who see the benefit of a private Island as a weekend getaway in the height of the tourist season.  Madeira it seems has no sandy beaches of its own.
   Our first sight was the Discovery Monument better known as the Soap Log.  An impressive four square  edifice with each of its sides showing scenes alluding to the discoveries made during the life of Prince Henry.
    The taxi tour began with a climb over the mountainous ridge heading roughly north towards Pico Castelo  We stopped frequently to admire the barren landscape and tremendous vistas

 We were constantly spotting birds of prey soaring above us.  There are only two farmers left on the island so it seems that the birds have a free ‘run’ of rabbits and other small mammals. Next a yellow outcrop of clay smeared the mountainside, but, sadly there are no potters nor artisans to use it.
   Winding our way to the west from Camacha, we journeyed to Pico de Castilo , where, a small fort  was built during the 16th Century.  Mainly to ward off French attacks and Algerian pirates.  Today the belvedere forms an outstanding view of  Porto Santo.  It has a well landscaped picnic area too. Onwards and down to the  Fonte da Areia - natural freshwater springs .  Once a spouting flow of water came through, however, nowadays it is but a small trickle.  Of course it had stories of both medicinal and holy nature attached.  More eye-catching were the sand blown cliffs through which it percolated.
We continued past the modern airport back towards the immense beach and up again to Pico das Flores another view  of the island and out to westwards a glimpse of Desertas and Madeira Islands.
We retraced our track back to the main road and continued to the most southerly point overlooking Ilhéu de Baixo ou da Cal , an even more remote island with its only inhabitants –the birds.  This was almost the end of our tour, save for the return though Cidade Vila Baleira with Eric (our driver) pointing out all the holiday homes, including that of the President who shares the road to the Marina with fuel storage tanks for the airport and a modern power station, he of course has prime real estate facing the beach and sea!
   By now we were very hungry so, after paying and thanking Eric we ate our picnic lunch in comfort ‘al fresco’ aboard Piano …...with a cool beer!
 

Ourika Valley Day 3

First a walk to the meeting place where the Grand Taxi could navigate the tiny alleys-then we were off through thick rush hour traffic and onto the open road to the Ourika Valley. Just 60 km or so but the second 30 km were along country lanes and so the speed was much less since the taxi driver was trying to keep it in good condition.  We stopped a couple of times to take pictures but each time we were accosted by hawkers selling jewellery etc which would have meant bartering (and we are not into that ).Included in the itinerary was a stop at a working mill. It was run by diverting water in a very simple fashion and produced sufficient for the local population who brought there own grain and had it ground to whichever grade they wanted (from powder to couscous) . The miller spoke good English and showed us the living accommodation adjoining the mill. Here his wife and baby daughter were sitting by the fire .  We also saw the well stocked larder  bedrooms and a small garden looking out onto the land he farms with all his crops. I guess he was self sufficient he certainly looked a happy chappy.
  By complete contrast we next stopped at Co-operative Feminine Tiguemine Argan. They ran a small industry from the harvest of Arcan trees.  These are ancient trees with nuts rather similar to Acorns. The tree is specially adapted to dry desert soils found in the North of Morocco.  When the harvest comes in the ladies crack the outer shell with a stone (by hand) the seed gets broken to almond like flakes husks are used as animal feed. The flakes are then ground to a paste again by hand and the liquor drained off. It is then mixed with water when the oil separates and can be poured off and the remaining mash used for making soap.  In short nothing is wasted!  The various parts are then the raw materials for production of an impressive line of goods.  We tasted Arcan oil (30E /300 ml) Arcan mixed with honey (jam) and Arcan with oranges (marmalade). The oil has a delicate flavour when compared to Olive oil and no wonder it is so expensive when it takes 60 Kg of nuts to make 1L of oil BY HAND!  Other products are soap hand cream shampoo etc etc the list is extensive.  Well out of our price range but we did buy a token bottle of oil for Salad dressings.
Finally we arrived at our destination the Setti Fatma.  Here the going was especially slow due to all the tourists arriving in Taxis and mini vans. The area was flooded in 1995 and is presently being rebuilt so you can imagine the chaos.  No matter we were introduced to our guide Mascan who also spoke fair English.  He then led us up a trail into the mountain to reach a waterfall.  Here the towns co-operative have the monopoly on all goods.  Wherever there is space there is a ‘shop’. One owner told us that all the items are made in the town and are therefore much cheaper than in Marrakech (Ha?).  We continued quite a strenuous climb upward.  Mascan had said my sandals were suitable but I would rather have been wearing my walking boots! He always gave me a helping hand on the more tricky parts which was sweet of him.  Once at the waterfall we had a rest and our picture taken since that was what everybody else was doing and we didn’t want to disappoint our guide. We began our descent and stopped for goodies .It was a feelgood factor to purchase from this gentle co-operative where ,yes there was sales pressure but not the same kind as in the Marrakech souks.  We had certainly paid over the odds because once we had paid the shop owner offered me a free bracelet ! After the climb down our guide asked us if we wanted to see the rest of the village we said maybe after lunch.
  Lunch was down by the waterside and very tasty.   Served in a Tajine  I had tiny meatballs in a spicy rich tomato sauce.  Malcolm had a Tajine of Lemon chicken (he left the olives).   By the time we were replete we realized that after the drive back to town we would only just make the train home.  We gave the village a miss.
 
The train was waiting at the station and left on time.  Unfortunately we had a few unlisted stops but generally made up the missed time. Arrived back aboard ‘Piano’ who had been well behaved while we were away and was pleased to see us again.

As I write we have been waiting for a slot to make passage for Madeira, Malcolm is not happy about the big swell which is forecast as we arrive so we look to be here for some time yet...